So, I bought a new fuel tank skid plate, had my tank cleaned, and am going to block off my mechanical and go electric fuel pump. I took off the old metal lines, and was thinking I would get some new bendable lines and bend them to match. But after the hassle of getting them out of the Jeep I am thinking about just putting some stainless steel lines on, or are there any other options? Also what size metal lines do I need to buy? or stainless?
Fuel Lines Question
Collapse
X
-
I just ran braided steel AN fuel rated line. Easy peasy. Literally will take less than an hour to replace if I need to.
The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by babywagThe original lines were stainless and are 5/16 & 1/4"
You'll need pro quality tools if you replace w/ stainless.
It's very hard to bend and darn near impossible to flare the ends.
Correct that SS is very difficult to work with. The mild steel line is ok though. You will need a good tubing bender.
If you want bendable tubing, the Nicopp or Cunifer line is great. Easy to bend and never corrodes. It is rather expensive compared to steel.
Summit and Jegs sells aluminum (!) tubing for fuel line, but I'm skeptical. Conventional wisdom says that aluminum (and copper) will work harden and crack eventually. Common to find warnings not to use copper for fuel line.Last edited by tgreese; 09-24-2013, 09:44 AM.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
Comment
-
-
Or you can spend $$ for really nice stuff
Inline Tube is the largest manufacturer of automotive preformed replacement brake lines and fuel lines with an extensive catalog of award winning restoration parts. From disc brake conversions to DIY kits, trust in the industry leading experts. Order online today!
They are great people to work with too.If the PM's are full,...try e mail!
[email protected]
616 four 03 44 0 five
'78 J-20 401 Q/T not quite stock anymore....Frame off Resto Mod..Super Cab nearing completion. SOMEDAY
"90 GW 360/727/229/3:31s 2" lift (SOLD in 2015)
'78 CJ7 Built from Scratch over a 7 year span.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by tgreeseI'm sure the original lines are zinc plated mild steel, not stainless. Same stuff that they sell at the parts store for brake lines.
Earlier rigs didn't come with stainless fuel lines but late model ones did.
I know the '79's I've owned weren't stainless.Tony
88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8
Comment
-
-
Just a suggestion.
I was one of the many victims of vapor lock. Prior to the 02 Invasion, I decided to make sure that was not an issue for myself.
I welded 1/4 X 3/4 in bolts along the top edge of my frame on the outside of the frame. I used rubber covered loop retainers and hung a 3/8in brake line in these all the way from the tank to just outside of the fuel pump and at that point entered the engine compartment. I did use the original return line.
At any rate this appeared to fix my vapor lock condition as it allowed for the brake(fuel) line to be exposed to all the air flow in the world. The only heat exposure I have is the 6in where it 90s into the fuel pump.
The other thing is that the flared fittings can be adapted to hose barb fittings, etc. Very few hose clamps.
J20BP Drivetrain...........
Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
775-537-7918
https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/
Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"
Comment
-
Comment