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  #21  
Old 06-18-2010, 01:07 AM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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A couple updates, no pictures.

Going with the 14 bolt. It's much closer to the width of my 44 front, front is 69 and change, 14 bolt is 67. Going to put the 60 rear up in the classified section. It's about 64 inches wide, 4.10's with factory limited slip. Interestingly, the 14 bolt would probably bolt in. Sping pads were pretty close after a rough measurement. I was going to go spring under frame, but maybe I'll keep them outboard. Still have to fabricate all new spring mounts.

Picked up a pair of 56" chevy springs for the rear. Freebies.

Picked up a pretty sweet set of Stewart Warner gauges at the Pomona Swap meet a couple weeks ago. $40. They are the World series gauges, out of production I think. Tach, speedo, oil, water, amps and fuel. I need to hunt down a matching voltage gauge. They pop up on ebay from time to time for next to nothing. Just need to be patient.

Not much else new to report for now. Just cleaning parts and prepping for the big swap. I also picked up a 61 ford f350 flatbed for free. Got it running, so I'll be able to drive it when I'm working on the Jeep. That should simplify things. It will make a great parts runner.
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:50 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Finally got a chance to actually work on the Jeep again. Welded all 52 holes in the roof. Wire brushed and primed the inside of the roof, then sandwiched a piece of 3/4 Styrofoam insulation between the cross supports and roof. Man than made a huge difference in temperature and brought the noise level way down.

Sold the dana 60 rear. Unless I find a smokin deal on a 60 front I'll be running 14 bolt rear and 44 front.

Also, powdercoated my first piece today. Finally.
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  #23  
Old 07-30-2010, 12:37 AM
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Interesting idea on the roof insulation. I had never thought of that for some reason.

I would be interested to know more on how you got it up in there and maybe some more pics ...

It is looking good, looking forward to seeing more.
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  #24  
Old 07-30-2010, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etcetera



Did you modify the dana 20 yourself for twinsticks or did you buy it that way. It looks like it's just a slightly changed stock setup with twin sticks. Do you have any close up pics of the what was done? I plan on doing the same thing to mine.
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  #25  
Old 07-30-2010, 09:11 AM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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I took the cross braces out to get the foam in. I just slighly bent the lip at the front and rear of the vehicle to slip it under, then bolted the cross braces back in. The front one you can do by hand and leave the tar felt stuff on the back side. The other 2 I had to remove the tar felt stuff and use a lever to push it up high enough to get the bolts in. I shoved the foam under the front lip by the windshield, then I put the middle brace, then the other 2 braces. I then cut the rear of the sheet about an inch long, and bowed the foam up and slipped it under the rear lip. It's a tight fit, but worth it I think. I'm pretty sure the stock headliner would go back in. Mine is trashed so I'll have to figure something else out.

I bought the dana 20 that way. It is a homebuilt setup. I'll see if I can get a picture.
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  #26  
Old 07-30-2010, 09:55 AM
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Nice project!! It will be nice when its done.

Sounds like you stole that boat motor too.
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  #27  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:07 AM
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The roof insulation is pretty cool. I would look into doing that myself because all the tar patches on my roof inside have fallen off and it sure rattles a lot.
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  #28  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:23 AM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christiansok
The roof insulation is pretty cool. I would look into doing that myself because all the tar patches on my roof inside have fallen off and it sure rattles a lot.

Mine was horrible. The headliner came down, and the big fiber pad had fallen apart. The whole roof would slap against those bars on smallish bumps. Pretty darn loud.
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  #29  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:38 AM
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Christiansok Christiansok is offline
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Quote:
Mine was horrible. The headliner came down, and the big fiber pad had fallen apart. The whole roof would slap against those bars on smallish bumps. Pretty darn loud.

I've taken off my roof rack and strips on top too so there really isn't much for structure anymore. I imagine without adding insulation or something it's going to be pretty loud driving in the rain.
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:59 AM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Today my goal is to fix the 2 inch section of bad drip rail and sand and paint the outside of the roof.
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  #31  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etcetera
Today my goal is to fix the 2 inch section of bad drip rail and sand and paint the outside of the roof.

Repainting my roof has been on my to-do list for 5 years now LOL!

Your project is looking good!
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  #32  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:10 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Repainting my roof has been on my to-do list for 5 years now LOL!

Your project is looking good!

LOL, I know how that goes.

Paint will have to wait till another day, the rail is taking longer to fix than I hoped. Had to cut more out to get the rust.

I'm also having second thoughts about the green paint. I'm kind of thinking of white for the roof and almond for the body now. We'll see.
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  #33  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:43 PM
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White was what I settled on for a roof color to try and combat the heat issue...
I have seen several 60's era wags with a white roof, and it looks good IMHO.

Maybe someday I'll get around to doing it?
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  #34  
Old 07-31-2010, 04:40 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Well, the drip rail is fixed I guess. I'm not 100% happy with it, but I don't want to make a 3rd attempt either, so it's staying. This is primarily a camping/trail rig, no need to get crazy with the body work. Ended up fabbing a 5 inch section to replace the rusted section. I'm so spoiled living in inland So. Cal. I really hate fixing rust.
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  #35  
Old 07-31-2010, 05:45 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Here's a pic. Looks ok I guess. A little finessing with a DA and it will be better.
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  #36  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:21 PM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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To secure the foam did you use spray adhesive or tape to hold it?
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  #37  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:25 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocklaurence
To secure the foam did you use spray adhesive or tape to hold it?

No, the foam board is quite stiff. It's held up by the 3 bolt in braces and the front and rear are slipped under the metal lip that runs all the way around.

In the front I might attach a new support from the forward most cross support to the front lip, right above the mirror. That section is the largest unsupported area. Even there I think it's probably OK without glue.
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  #38  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:28 PM
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Good looking project for sure! and some awesome deals! I vote for the 14 bolt over a D60, I know they are big and heavy and hang down but they are just bullet proof axles!
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  #39  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:36 PM
Etcetera Etcetera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsc7002
Good looking project for sure! and some awesome deals! I vote for the 14 bolt over a D60, I know they are big and heavy and hang down but they are just bullet proof axles!

Yeah, I went with the 14 bolt. Beef. I shaved some already, just with a sawzall. I haven't decided if I'll go nuts and take it apart and really shave it. Just taking that lip off should help alot. I found one writeup on pirate with an extreme shave and it had more clearance than a stock Dana 44. Maybe if/when I regear.
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  #40  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:47 PM
jsc7002 jsc7002 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etcetera
Yeah, I went with the 14 bolt. Beef. I shaved some already, just with a sawzall. I haven't decided if I'll go nuts and take it apart and really shave it. Just taking that lip off should help alot. I found one writeup on pirate with an extreme shave and it had more clearance than a stock Dana 44. Maybe if/when I regear.

yeah I think I have seen that thread, I just shaved mine so that the lip was gone and it was all smooth on the bottom.
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