I just did a huge tune up on the Chero. 80, 360, 727, 208.
I did the level 2 ingnition upgrade (the one that uses the ford TFI coil) and all I can say is WOW. Some issue I ran into. You will need to ask for the slip on rotor not the bolt on. You will need the distributor cap base from a '79 Ford 350 w/ 460. You need the cap and PUSH on rotor from and '84 Ford 350 w/ 460 and EEC. Wire from something intirely different because we had to get the right coil wire by miss matching, they ened up being the 8mm low resistance kind though. It took three trips to Advance Auto to get the right stuff (this was more my fault because he was giving me what I asked for). I just used common blade connectors to adapter the harness to the TFI coil and I use the same bracket that the and can coil was on to mount it. I had to fab it a little but it worked really well. I have about $50 in the whole upgrade.
I also did a compression test and all cylinders were 120psi or better with very little leak down and that was on a "dry" motor. I changed the plugs, air filter, pcv and checked all the other fluids. Other thing I did was an oil change. That sure went smoothly.
I am not sure who did the oil change on this last but that guy should be killed. It took me 2.5 hours to get the filter off. I tried brute force. No go. I tried a wrench. No go. I tried a screw driver through it and only succeeded in tearing the filter in half and making a HUGE mess. The only thing that worked wasI finally took a very big flat head screw driver and chiselled the rest of the can off by cuttiong the mounting surface a millimeter at a time with very descisive hammer blows. Once the can was off I had to pry up the flange, hammer it out and put vise grips on the center and then hammer those until it unscrewed. I would have been surprised at that point if I looked up there an saw that someone had welded the oil filter on. I have NEVER seen one that had to get off.
The kicker was I fully expected to have to buy a new oil pump housing and all after beating on it with a 3lb mini sledge for almost 3 hours, but everything was fine. The seal surface was un mared and the threads were clean and unrusted. There was no evidence of the fact that the oil filter had been put on by the Garilla Monsoon.
When all was said and done though the jeep is TOTALLY different. I thought I had that motor idling smoothly. Oh no, it now idles smoothly. It has probably 20-30 more horses judging by seat-o-pant dyno. Less smell at the exhaust pipe. Fired right up on first try of the key. It even sounds better.
So for my $70 tune-up/ ignition upgrade, I ended up with a just as good as stock preforming motor and with the peice of mind that everything was done right and the motor has a little life left in it. 120psi dry with no leak down is probably just about as good as 140psi after the motor has oiled up.
Moral of the story, do a full tune-up and do the ignition mod and reap the benefits.
I did the level 2 ingnition upgrade (the one that uses the ford TFI coil) and all I can say is WOW. Some issue I ran into. You will need to ask for the slip on rotor not the bolt on. You will need the distributor cap base from a '79 Ford 350 w/ 460. You need the cap and PUSH on rotor from and '84 Ford 350 w/ 460 and EEC. Wire from something intirely different because we had to get the right coil wire by miss matching, they ened up being the 8mm low resistance kind though. It took three trips to Advance Auto to get the right stuff (this was more my fault because he was giving me what I asked for). I just used common blade connectors to adapter the harness to the TFI coil and I use the same bracket that the and can coil was on to mount it. I had to fab it a little but it worked really well. I have about $50 in the whole upgrade.
I also did a compression test and all cylinders were 120psi or better with very little leak down and that was on a "dry" motor. I changed the plugs, air filter, pcv and checked all the other fluids. Other thing I did was an oil change. That sure went smoothly.
I am not sure who did the oil change on this last but that guy should be killed. It took me 2.5 hours to get the filter off. I tried brute force. No go. I tried a wrench. No go. I tried a screw driver through it and only succeeded in tearing the filter in half and making a HUGE mess. The only thing that worked wasI finally took a very big flat head screw driver and chiselled the rest of the can off by cuttiong the mounting surface a millimeter at a time with very descisive hammer blows. Once the can was off I had to pry up the flange, hammer it out and put vise grips on the center and then hammer those until it unscrewed. I would have been surprised at that point if I looked up there an saw that someone had welded the oil filter on. I have NEVER seen one that had to get off.
The kicker was I fully expected to have to buy a new oil pump housing and all after beating on it with a 3lb mini sledge for almost 3 hours, but everything was fine. The seal surface was un mared and the threads were clean and unrusted. There was no evidence of the fact that the oil filter had been put on by the Garilla Monsoon.
When all was said and done though the jeep is TOTALLY different. I thought I had that motor idling smoothly. Oh no, it now idles smoothly. It has probably 20-30 more horses judging by seat-o-pant dyno. Less smell at the exhaust pipe. Fired right up on first try of the key. It even sounds better.
So for my $70 tune-up/ ignition upgrade, I ended up with a just as good as stock preforming motor and with the peice of mind that everything was done right and the motor has a little life left in it. 120psi dry with no leak down is probably just about as good as 140psi after the motor has oiled up.
Moral of the story, do a full tune-up and do the ignition mod and reap the benefits.
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