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  #21  
Old 04-27-2009, 03:17 PM
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KyooMac KyooMac is offline
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Great write up and thanks so much for the pictures.
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2009, 03:53 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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out of the dip. looks pretty good. it is once again fully dis-assembled.



once clean,it is inspected. and on this one a crack is found that was previously hidden under the grunge.



so what does this mean? well,it means your carb isn't rebuildable. i however have a stockpile of these,so i went and got another carb body and cleaned it up in the parts washer.

once the body checks out all passages are blown out,both body and booster assembly. low pressure here-30lbs will do. too high can force passage plugs out.



also,be sure the air bleeds are clear,as shown. 2 on the rear directly above the bronze tubes.



2 in the center front. some assemblies have them on the sides as well,where the screwdriver is pointing.



ready for assembly. i like to give all the bleeds and jetways a shot of this.



basically seafoam in an aerosol can. good stuff for carbs.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2009, 04:42 PM
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j20brett j20brett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellCreek
The idle solenoid is energized (pops out) when the ignition key is turned on. It is set for the proper idle RPM. When you turn the key off, the solenoid pops back in and closes the throttle plate to prevent the engine from dieseling (running on).

Nice write-up, Ristow.

Ah that makes sense. Thank you!

Edit: What do you dip it in? Ive got a bucket of chemtool (1 gallon)...would this work?
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Last edited by j20brett : 04-27-2009 at 04:44 PM.
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2009, 04:54 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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carb dip. 5 gallon pail. kinda spendy.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


→ Where the kids hang out...

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  #25  
Old 04-27-2009, 05:25 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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re-assembly. first off. NEVER use any type of tube style sealant on a carb. RTV and the likes. it squeezes out and into the air/fuel channels,plugging them. if you have to use it to prevent leaks,you need a new carb.

i grease all the gaskets on these carbs.

start by putting the red umbrella valve into the center hole of the accellerator pump bore. pull the bump on the tail through the body wit a pliers.



engage the acc. pump rod into the middle hole on the throttle arm.



put the new pump diaphragm into the pump cover. most late carbs use the long shaft diaphragm. this is how it all goes together.....




...but first,engage the other end of the pump rod into the outer hole of the cover arm.



and tighten all 4 bolts as you hold it together.



next,put the new gasket on the new powervalve,and thread it into the main body,tighten firmly.





the cover goes on with fitting facing front. now,verify the cover holds vacuum,by attaching a hose and applying vacuum with a vacuum pump,or by sucking on the hose,and seeing if it holds vacuum. it must hold vacuum. if not,check the power valve gasket for proper placement.


also,now the 2 idle mix screws go in,and set to 3 turns out each.



the acc. pump check ball,and weight go into the center cluster hole. the gasket is in place too. like so.



but before the weight is dropped in,put the booster cluster into position. wiggle it to get the gasket in position. then drop the weight in.



the center screw goes in,with the flat tin shroud. it will have to be wiggled a bit to get the weight to go inside it. tighten it down firmly.

next the inlet valve. with either the shroud which doubles as gasket,or just a gasket,depending on carb.





here,the main jets are installed to,as well as boosters and inlet valve.




hook the inlet needle onto the float. drop into position into the inlet valve.



note long damper spring. if yours is missing don't worry about it. snap the wire retainer into the groove on the inlet valve body.



measure float height. 9/16" from tip of float to top of main body,with the needle pushed down (closed).



install the 2 parts of the aneroid bellows valve,with new gaskets.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

Last edited by Ristow : 04-27-2009 at 07:52 PM.
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  #26  
Old 04-27-2009, 05:36 PM
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AnnieL AnnieL is offline
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This has got to be one of THE coolest write ups I have ever read!
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2009, 05:51 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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reassemble the choke. wrap the teflon sleeve around the choke spindle,and push through choke body. use pic for reference.



arrange the linkages as shown. put the gasket in place as shown.



bolt up to the main body,making sure the gasket stays in place. hook up the lower fast idle link as shown,and install the c-clip.



engage the pull-off link with the pull-off solenoid,and bolt it to the body.



hook up the vacuum line.



grease the top gasket,put in place,making sure it's positioned correctly.



put top cover on,install the 6 bolts,tighten sequentially. then,install the choke door link,and the fork in the choke assembly the cap engages. the linkage goes in the outer hole on the upper link.

first,engage the lower part of the link,then put the upper link onto the rod,then put on the door shaft and tighten screw.



the lower part goes here. note the white plastic sealing piece on the rod.



all assembled.



put cover gasket in place,and cover,engaging spring in the fork slot.





put idle solenoid on. i don't use these myself,but this carb is going to an emissions testing area,so i put it back on.



next we set the choke/fast idle up,and it's ready for install.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2009, 07:44 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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choke set up. do this cold,if on the vehicle. open the throttle to close the choke.



you can use a vacuum pump on the pull off solenoid,or if you don't have on,just push the piston in.



initial choke clearance. calls for .118" clearance between the lower choke plate and body.i used a 3mm allen. if you have a icrometer,measure a drill bit,or allen wrench to find a suitable size to measure with.

to adjust,put the fast idle screw on the top step as shown. that screw is also how fast idle rpm is adjusted.



measure by sliding the bit between the lower edge of the choke butterfly,and body wall. adjust by turning screw on back of vacuum solenoid.







next is fast idle cam adjustment. calls for .076". i used a 1/16" allen. again measured between lower plate and wall. this adjustment ensures the carb comes off the top cam when the throttle is blipped after starting.

the fast idle cam is placed on the 2nd step mark as shown for this adjustment.





adjust via this screw.




open the throttle fully,verify the choke plate opens a generous amount,if not,bend tab shown to adjust. this is so if flooded the choke is forced open to clear the fuel.






idle speed. done with choke plate fully opened so the fast idle cam is NOT engaged.

if you are using the idle solenoid,this screw is adjusted to just slightly open.

if you are NOT using an idle solenoid. this is your idle speed adjuster.



if you are using the idle solenoid,the solenoid is energized,and the idle speed is adjusted here.




idle,and fast idle speeds will be on the emissions sticker under the hood of your particular vehicle.

if,after ALL adjustments are done,on cold start,after the throttle is depressed and released to set the choke,the engine starts and then dies,the choke pull-off is opening the choke too far. likewise,if it runs like it's flooding out,it's closed too far.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

Last edited by Ristow : 04-28-2009 at 02:43 PM.
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  #29  
Old 04-28-2009, 08:17 AM
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scantar scantar is offline
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I've been waiting 3 years and 6 Jeeps for this Awesome write-up Mike! Thanks!!


Mods need to superglue, rivet and weld this thing right to the top of the Tech channel!


Steve
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  #30  
Old 04-28-2009, 09:21 AM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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Steve, I'll be moving it to the archives this evening. You'll be able to find it there when ever you need it.
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  #31  
Old 04-28-2009, 09:31 AM
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AnnieL AnnieL is offline
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Not only is this the best write up ever-

I just found out last night that this carb is for MY RIG!! How cool is that?!

To say I am stoked (especially after what I've been thru with carb problems) is a total understatement.

Tried for the first time to rebuild my own a couple of weeks ago, and looking at this-I can see that I did indeed "mess up" in a few places (and why I ended up with a leak.)

It will be an absolute honor to put this carb into my rig! I am one lucky girl!

!!!RISTOW ROCKS!!!
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Last edited by AnnieL : 04-28-2009 at 09:38 AM.
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  #32  
Old 04-28-2009, 11:29 AM
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Billygoat Billygoat is offline
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Awsome - I have done before, but never with anymore instructions that the rebuilt kit comes with...this is A LOT better .


Now if you don't have a dip what cleaner can use use?
Spray carb clearner
Breake Cleaner
spray sea foam

what is best, what is bad and why?
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  #33  
Old 04-28-2009, 11:51 AM
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mattmopar440 mattmopar440 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnieL
!!!RISTOW ROCKS!!!

ALL HAIL THE CARB KING (WE ARE NOT WORTHY)
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  #34  
Old 06-12-2009, 09:24 PM
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Achilles Achilles is offline
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Ristow where did you get the rebuild kit and do you have a part number for it.
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  #35  
Old 06-13-2009, 06:47 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Oreilly's auto parts. don't have the box anymore,just looked it up for a '91 GW.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #36  
Old 06-13-2009, 08:53 AM
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Achilles Achilles is offline
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Any Ideas where I can get a new electric choke coil assembly?


Never mind, I think I have found a source fore the electric choke coil assembly. I am going to order one to check out the quality of it. If it checks out ok I will post the specifics for it if any one wants the information.
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MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925

Last edited by Achilles : 06-13-2009 at 11:57 AM.
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