the subject. about to be fully stripped for a carb dip. not all i'm doing is necessary for a general freshen up job. this one is going in the dip,so it sheds all it's clothes.
i'd like to start by saying DO NOT REMOVE ANY BUTTERFLY SCREWS! either throttle or choke. it ruins the threads in the shaft and the bolts cannot be properly tightened down again,risking engine damage! the throttle/choke shafts are rarely necessary to remove.
use 2 wrenches on the fuel line,one on the line,another on the fitting,or both will turn.
first,if you find what look like rivets holding the choke cap on,they are not. they are tamper proof screws. slot them with a dremel,and remove with a screwdriver.
pull the choke link arm off.
pull the top cover screws.
and the top will pop off.
pop the float retaing clip to pull the float.
note the little damper spring.
pulling the main jets is not mandatory. if you do remove,use a big enough screwdriver to span the jet,or you'll tear 'em up.
remove the booster cluster screw.
and gently wiggle it free.
remove the accelerator check weight,and the ball under it.
remove the accelerator pump screws and cover. negotiate the link rod from the cover arm.
and remove the diaphragm. rip out the red umbrella in the pump bore too.
remove the accelerator pump link from the throttle arm.
on the bottom of the main body,remove the power valve cover screws,un-screw the power valve from the main body.
remove the idle mixture screws.
remove the choke housing screws.
remove the circlip on the fast idle link. and separate the choke housing from the main body.
remove the thermostat arm screw.
remove the linkage assembly. there is a teflon bushing inside the bore to be removed as well.
remove the choke pull-off solenoid.
remove the aneroid bellows.
the idle solenoid.
remove the fuel inlet valve. again,wide screw driver.
and re-assemble all the main parts loosly for dunking. i left the aneroid bellows off because i don't know if it'd survive the bath chemcals.