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  #1  
Old 11-08-2017, 09:32 PM
Geminiroq Geminiroq is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 06, 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 442
How hard and time consuming is replacing intake manifold gaskets

Hi Everyone,

Since non of the local mechanics want to work on my jeep....I am tempted to do it myself...with limited tools.

I need to replace the intake gaskets because of a leak.

I did a search and really didnt find anything that gave a difficulty or time rating.

How hard and time consuming is it to do?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

P.S. If anyone wants to help me wrench this....pizza and chicken wings are on me
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2017, 10:03 PM
tenoverthenose tenoverthenose is offline
we don't know what he wants.
 
Join Date: Jan 12, 2017
Location: Yosemite, CA
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I've done it twice on a 258 and it's not that tough so long as everything comes loose. I needed some flexible extensions that I didn't have to reach all the bolts, but I got it all to seal up properly on my first try
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2017, 10:29 PM
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Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 is offline
Cherokee Outlaw
 
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Location: Central Valley, CA
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AMC V8? Buick V8? Or I6?
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1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - 7" lift, 35x12.5x15
AMC 360 - 4180, TFI, Headers, Dual Exhaust
TH400 - Shift Kit, Deep Pan, Aux Cooler
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R D44 - 3.54, Lock'd

1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
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  #4  
Old 11-09-2017, 10:07 AM
deckroid deckroid is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 05, 2016
Location: Idaho
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The only trouble I had was reaching all the bolts... I'm 6-4 and had to use a milk crate as a step ladder. I can't even imagine a 6 inch lift or more
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  #5  
Old 11-09-2017, 02:19 PM
johnsonic johnsonic is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 12, 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 239
It's pretty easy - did it a few times on my 360. Only tricky part is to lower it exactly so you don't have front/back movement when letting it drop.

Also - you can choose to use the end seals, or drop a 1/4" bead of RTV. I just used the RTV & it's been fine (read that seals can un-seat over time?).

If it's a V8 and a stock manifold make sure you have a helper - they are heavier than you'd think!!!

Total time with cleaning off old gasket material, pulling carb, draining coolant figure a day on the weekend.
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360
Comp 260H
Magnum Roller Rockers
Wiseco -21cc Forged Pistons
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Holley SA 670
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...but the parts live on
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2017, 10:47 PM
Geminiroq Geminiroq is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 06, 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
AMC V8? Buick V8? Or I6?

Sorry....AMC 360
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  #7  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:03 AM
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letank letank is offline
AMC 4 OH! 1
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: San Francisco
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Remove the hood I made a contraption to hold the hood up with a saw horse type frame, scribe the position on the hood of the stud to allow for easy reinstallation, it is a lot easier because the intake is so heavy.

I did the RTV bead in the back,

check carefully all the surfaces on the head, I had some pitting, but it is doing well.

I pop the cover of the PCV to clean 40 years of caked oil



Check my links below for any useful picts
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2017, 07:14 AM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Jan 03, 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,770
Everything seems to take longer than I think it would. There is a lot of stuff to clear out of the way before you can start. I was fortunate that all the bolts came out without trouble, but my old manifold did not want to come off after the bolts were out. The darn things can really adhere themselves to the heads and block. I tapped on the thing forever trying to get it loose and ended up using a screwdriver on the end to get it to release. I was worried that any screwdriver marks would keep it from sealing, but I haven't had any problems. It is ridiculously heavy making it a challenge to lift out and more importantly to set down straight so you don't disturbe the thick RTV bead on the ends or the metal gasket that seems to want to move around as well. I used a little high temp rtv around the water openings of the metal pan, but I think the jury is out on doing that. If I remember right, I think one of the manifold bolts needed to have thread sealant applied because it was tapped into water jacket. There is a torque sequence that should be followed when installing the manifold bolts. I followed the sequence, but couldn't use a torque wrench due to space issues. Just a few thoughts.
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2017, 10:29 AM
Geminiroq Geminiroq is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 06, 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 442
With the OE head being so heavy....would going to an aluminum intake a better option? Do know if there is any benefit but I thought i would ask.

Thanks for all the input
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2017, 12:23 PM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geminiroq
With the OE head being so heavy....would going to an aluminum intake a better option? Do know if there is any benefit but I thought i would ask.

Thanks for all the input
The weight factor difference will make a difference to your back but not your car. There are better aftermarket manifolds that marginally perform better for normal street use but to spend the money "just to save weight" isn't a good economic plan.
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2017, 07:21 AM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Jan 03, 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,770
The darn manifold weighs 74 lbs and is hard to lift when you are standing on your tip toes. If you want an aluminum manilfold you might as well install it now, but since you probably will want to figure out a lifting devise anyway, the original works fine. I've included a link to a past discussion on the weight issue and possible ways to deal with it.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=72815&highlight=intake+manifold+w eigh
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #12  
Old 11-14-2017, 02:25 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 3,003
Where are you in LA? I did my intake about a year ago and will be doing another one in the next 4 months or so. If you want to come up to Camarillo we can park next to each other in my garage and do them together...

There are Edelbrock Torker intakes (aluminum) on LA Craigslist often but they are not smog legal. If you have a 76 or later, the only aluminum intake you MIGHT be able to pass smog with is Edelbrock 3171 Performer (it has provisions for EGR).

If you are 75 or older, you can run a Torker but it may not be the wisest choice for a daily driver and you would have to get a different carb.
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2017, 03:33 PM
Geminiroq Geminiroq is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 06, 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Where are you in LA? I did my intake about a year ago and will be doing another one in the next 4 months or so. If you want to come up to Camarillo we can park next to each other in my garage and do them together...

There are Edelbrock Torker intakes (aluminum) on LA Craigslist often but they are not smog legal. If you have a 76 or later, the only aluminum intake you MIGHT be able to pass smog with is Edelbrock 3171 Performer (it has provisions for EGR).

If you are 75 or older, you can run a Torker but it may not be the wisest choice for a daily driver and you would have to get a different carb.

Sorry for the delay....I would be open to that but my rig is on non op right now and would not be able to get it out there.

If anyone wants to wrench from start to finish....I would greatly appreciate it
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  #14  
Old 11-24-2017, 09:51 AM
letank's Avatar
letank letank is offline
AMC 4 OH! 1
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3,870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geminiroq
Sorry for the delay....I would be open to that but my rig is on non op right now and would not be able to get it out there.

If anyone wants to wrench from start to finish....I would greatly appreciate it

you can get a day pass... from DMV or AAA if you are a member, not too sure if you have to pay for the pass, at some time they had 1 month pass for smog visit, but for a non-op, not too sure...
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2017, 11:16 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geminiroq
Sorry for the delay....I would be open to that but my rig is on non op right now and would not be able to get it out there.

If anyone wants to wrench from start to finish....I would greatly appreciate it
what city are you in? I might be able to come down there...

I wont be able to until about late Dec though, if you can wait that long.
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2017, 06:40 PM
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SlowGear SlowGear is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jan 12, 2013
Location: Renton, Washington
Posts: 57
Engine hoist was the only way I could get that heavy monster in. There was just enough clearance without removing the hood.
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:58 PM
Geminiroq Geminiroq is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 06, 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
what city are you in? I might be able to come down there...

I wont be able to until about late Dec though, if you can wait that long.

I am in Santa Monica...
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  #18  
Old 11-24-2017, 09:17 PM
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lycanthrope lycanthrope is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 26, 2007
Location: inland empire, ca
Posts: 379
Wrenchathon?

about time for a visit anyway......

I am considering pulling the heads on my '76 for a refresh soon.
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'83 j10 pioneer 258/t5/208...gone
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2017, 05:20 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I can't commit to a specific day yet but I'd be willing to pack up and come down there sometime in late Dec.

Before starting, you will need:
1) new intake manifold gasket set
2) a gallon of coolant
3) I would get a 195 degree Tstat since we will be in there (I have a couple extra gaskets so don't worry about getting a Tstat gasket)
4) a Carb to intake gasket
5) I will bring some extra vacuum lines and fittings (I am SURE we will find some cracked hoses and we might brake a fitting)
6) It would be a good time to do your fuel filter (I have an extra brand new AC Delco one still in the box I'll sell you for what I paid for it, i think about $4)
7) LOTS of rags and a shop vac to clean whatever you need to clean while we are in there.
8) I put a super thin layer of black Permatex on my sealing surface last time and it worked well. I am not sure it is "needed" but it might be good to have.
9) probably be good to replace the PCV while we are in there too, so I would recommend ordering that
10) Last thing to buy would be a EGR Gasket if you have an EGR valve.
11) Shop manual page with all the torque specs. I have my shop manual in soft copy (79) and have a hard copy of the 82 Manual. What year is yours?

I'll bring all the tools I think we need.

Anyone else want to chime in?

Wrenchathon sounds good to me but doing 2 intakes will take most of a day. Getting the heads swapped might be a tall order for one day unless your are trailer'ing it...
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  #20  
Old 11-26-2017, 09:26 PM
gpcl16 gpcl16 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 02, 2016
Location: California
Posts: 121
I worked many years at a repair shop that worked on vintage vehicles. Do not, I repeat, do not use the rubber end seals. My old-timer boss warned me against it and I didn't listen. Every time I used one of those rubber end seals it has blown out causing a massive oil leak. Do yourself a favor and get a tube of "the right stuff" RTV sealant and run a fat bead in place of the rubber end seals front and rear. Make sure you set it straight down without any back and forth movement. Set the manifold on dry first just so you can see the gap and how thick the bead needs to be to seal.

The other comments are no joke. The AMC V8 intake is inexplicably the absolute heaviest intake manifold I've ever encountered. Did intake gaskets on a Ford 352, Chevy 454 and 350, small block Ford, Buick Nailhead 425, even a Ford 460. Somehow the AMC one is heaviest. I just about destroyed my back removing mine by myself. When I put it back in, I had two other people helping me. Later on I switched to an Edelbrock Aluminum intake. Wish I had just done that to begin with.
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