SWEARING of Rust...

[Tinkerjeep]

Cool! Thanks for the suggestions, guys! I knew I couldn't be the only one not yet willing to replace the whole body because of honery rust!

[fej01]

fluid film

Best rust prevention I've found is a product called fluid film, is made of lanolin. Developed by military in ww2. It's almost a jelly(get the n/a non aerosol for the thicker coating) it also works as a penetrant. Soaks into rusty metal, pushes out moisture and encapsulates. I've used it on a few vehicles with good results.Good for your hands and smells ok too. Anyone I've talked to weblogs used it swears by it.

[JeepJeepster]

Ive started using fluid film. Only down side is it needs to be applied at least yearly.

[TexasJ10]

I think fluid film was originally developed solely for transport of equipment on open decks and not as long term protection. I think the product is probably much better today than as originally formulated and at least the manufacturer advertises longer life. Another downside is it is hard to remove completely, so if you try to use any other encapsulator or paint over the areas treated you may never get adhesion.

[fej01]

I have gone a few years between applications of fluid film witith no problems, but yearly world be better.my truck still has dust stuck on the lower sides of the doors from a fluid film application 6 years ago (I never wash my vehicles, until they're ready for a new coat of paint). If I need to remove fluid film,I use brake parts cleaner spray, but I haven't needed to do that often.

A cheaper alternative used in Vermont is bar and chain oil, it has tackifiers that keep it clinging to metal.

My best long-term solution is to sandblast and coat with fiberglass resin. The rough tooth of the sandblasted metal allows the epoxy to grab hold(it won't do well on smooth metal). I've had success with this for years. Best place for this is inside doors, at the bottom to prevent seam rot

[twmattox]

Look into Rust Check. It is what I hope to start using. Thinner oil applied every 18-months or so. Has a very good reputation.

[nograin]

My experiences have been:

• Rust converters work but don't get deep enough.
• All primers are permeable - if not top coated - moisture gets through.
• Corroless is the only exception to this. I'm not aware of any current US retailer. (They're a UK based company) I've had very good experiences using corroless with and without topcoat. At least 3-4 years on cars and 10 years plus on fence iron. Eastwood now carries their own version instead, and its not the same at all.
• Hammerite Paint seems to hold up, but I don't have as much time on them. No primer, apply direct to non-flaky lightly rusted surfaces. US formula appears to be the same as UK formula, but US licensee is clueless if you ask them any tech questions. A long time ago I was told its a styrenated paint. Very hard and smooth finish. Brush formula slightly different than spray (according to MSDS) in at least some colors. Flake finish might be more moisture resistant - I couldn't find out.
• When rust is flaking, every flake has moisture trapping capacity undeneath.
• When using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, either top coat or go over with body filler that has aluminum flakes in it. Then top coat.
• For crevices and locations that can't be properly prepped, the wax like stuff seems the best option. Of course if you're planning to weld in that location later on, it will be a bit of a mess and likely will ignite especially if using oxy-acet. I've used LPV 3 and Waxoyl (another UK product) which has a hand pump contraction. But the waxoyl has to be warm to apply. It never really hardens - probably essentially the same as the Texaco product etc.
• Final one - Epoxy paints are not answer alone, even POR15. If its rusty, they need a primer-prep or the rust will grow underneath. They say now, but I found out the hard way. If you can't prep it right, then its the same issue as with any paint.

[Mike D]

So for the US folk... Hammerite Paint is the way to go ?

My 63/64 has surface rust on the top and id like to get that stopped before its gets out of control .....

I got married and it was not there ..... sat for years with no attention and now after 8 years its starting to rust up there .... cant ignore the Red Wagoneer anymore ...

[Mike D]

So for the US folk... Hammerite Paint is the way to go ?

My 63/64 has surface rust on the top and id like to get that stopped before its gets out of control .....

I got married and it was not there ..... sat for years with no attention and now after 8 years its starting to rust up there .... cant ignore the Red Wagoneer anymore ...

What about Corroseal ?? is it a rip-off of Corroless ?

http://store.roddapaint.com/corroseal-rust-converter-quart.html

[FSJunkie]

My method of rust prevention and mitigation is staying as far from the Midwest and Northeast as possible. I call the entire region of the country that is north and east of Oklahoma the "DANGER ZONE". Weather within this zone is basically divinely engineered to destroy automobiles and human factors make it even worse, particularly the insane use of road salt. I HATE ROAD SALT!!! Rules within the zone are as follows:

1. At no time shall any car venture outside a garage from October through May unless complete and instant removal of all metallic parts is desired.
2. No car shall be started without the use of a block heater from December through March unless excess engine wear is desired.
3. No driving shall be performed from May through September without A/C.
4. No car shall be left unattended outside for more than 5 minutes any time of year unless sandblasted paint, hail dents, and a fencepost through the windshield is desired.
5. The engine air cleaner and breather filter shall be maintained to the highest quality unless ruined cylinder bores are desired.

[Bill J]

My method of rust prevention and mitigation is staying as far from the Midwest and Northeast as possible. I call the entire region of the country that is north and east of Oklahoma the "DANGER ZONE". Weather within this zone is basically divinely engineered to destroy automobiles and human factors make it even worse, particularly the insane use of road salt. I HATE ROAD SALT!!! Rules within the zone are as follows:

1. At no time shall any car venture outside a garage from October through May unless complete and instant removal of all metallic parts is desired.
2. No car shall be started without the use of a block heater from December through March unless excess engine wear is desired.
3. No driving shall be performed from May through September without A/C.
4. No car shall be left unattended outside for more than 5 minutes any time of year unless sandblasted paint, hail dents, and a fencepost through the windshield is desired.
5. The engine air cleaner and breather filter shall be maintained to the highest quality unless ruined cylinder bores are desired.

Come on, its not really that bad here! If Jeep (or me) had only put a drain hole in the darn frame of my TJ, I would not be crying now thinking about having to fix said frame...plus I perhaps should have rinsed off the caked salt that slowly is destroying the fenders of same Jeep...that being said, there is a tremendous overuse of road salt here to the detriment of cars, grass, concrete, runoff into waterways...so if anyone wants to do some welding in Northern NJ, I have a candidate for you!

[k13evin]

Try some of the KBS RustBlast stuff. every thing they make is very good plus shipping is cheap to, i have a 75 bronco that was loaded with rust and it worked like a charm.