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Old 09-22-2008, 09:50 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 19, 2008
Location: Buffalo Gap, TX
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Post Harada DLA-01 Door Lock Actuator Replacement (Update?)

I have read the tech articles and a couple of other posts about replacing tired factory actuators (motors) with the Harada DLA-01 and wanted to throw out a possible update since the posts that I have seen were a few years old and the Harada may have changed. Of course it may not have changed, as I have seen a grand total of one of them. From what I had read hear it was necessary to drill new holes in the door to mount the new actuator, as it would be slightly off from being able to mount in the old holes. By flipping the actuator 90* so that it is in the same orientation as the stock one, you can simply unbolt the bracket from the old one and reuse it on the new one and not have to drill anything (caveat to that is that I drilled out the mounting holes on the Harada about a 32nd over so that a #6 x 1 1/4" fine thread machine bolt will fit easily). The Harada was basically a direct replacement for the original by using the old bracket. I just used some new bolts to attach it to the door in place of the original rivets that I ground off. I'm guessing that maybe Harada changed their mounting hole location as I'm sure whoever has done this in the past has probably checked to see if they could install it without driling new holes in the door. I'm sure I didn't make a new discovery here, just thought I'd point out something that I hadn't read about yet.

Also, it was necessary to use part of the extension and the coupling piece that comes with the Harada as it will be a couple inches shy of reaching the Jeep linkage. It was all very very simple and straightforward, even though it may sound kind of convoluted. With a liberal application of carb cleaner followed by a liberal application of WD-40 (out with the old gunked up grease, in with the new), the driver door on the Ag Wag now locks and unlocks like it was brand new. Up next now that I have seen the quality of the Harada part (I ordered one to start with, in case it was junk and there was a better option) are 2 other actuator replacements.

Happy locking.


Link to the orignal tech article:
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/misc/doorlock.html
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."

Last edited by shiner2001 : 09-23-2008 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:25 PM
andy d andy d is offline
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I went through the the door innards about 5 yrs ago on my new 88. Thwe original pop ups worked ok. The trouble was that the door latch arms were binding from old grease and there was sloop in the linkages that ate up the lousy 7/8" throw of the pop up. A little white grease and some adjusting of the linkages ( bending) and the doors work fine.
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:36 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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By feel I checked the amount of resistance of the Harada that it took to stop the actuator from moving before I put it in (just hooking it up to a 12v source) and it seemed to be pretty coercive, at least it seemed strong enough that I didn't want to try to stop it. When I pulled the old one out, the motor was pretty weak and it didn't take much to stop it from doing it's job. I think my new results are due to a new actuator AND the re-lubing of the rest of the moving parts. I have read of people "rebuilding" the electric motors in the original, but for $20, it was probably easier to just replace it.


Also, concerning the "ghost locking" (apparently the door lock just "falling") that happens in alot of the FSJ's, is that just in the manual locks or in the electrics also? Mine didn't suffer from that, but I didn't know if it was because they were electric or I was just lucky.
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:31 AM
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Thomas792 Thomas792 is offline
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I know for a fact that the autolocking feature is prevalent on electric locks. It is usually the culprit of a broken spring in the lock. Go to the vendors section and buy a pair or two. Takes only a few minutes to take the lock out, swap in the new spring, and put it back together.
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:25 AM
shiner2001's Avatar
shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Duly noted, I bought a pair of them a while back but haven't put them in yet. After going through one door, it seemed to be working great, so I didn't change the spring. It looks like it will be alot easier to do it with the lock removed from the door and after getting it all buttoned back up, I really just didn't feel like taking it all back out, so I left the old one in for now since it's working. But it's nice to have them on hand anyway.
__________________
Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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