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  #41  
Old 12-28-2018, 03:45 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
And finally, I am restoring the dash pad. It was in pretty good shape when I received it, but It was in need of some repair. So I removed all the old vinyl, and cut the pad into 4 pieces because it shrunk nearly 3/4" with age. I used original gorilla glue to expand and fill the 1/4" gap and it did really really well. I used my dremel and sanded it down then covered it with 1/8" high density closed cell foam. I have to cover it with vinyl still. But here it is right now.




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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #42  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:44 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
Well Some of you may have noticed my post in the wanted section for an 86+ dash pad... Between the cats clawing at it (I dont know why they are infatuated with clawing foam, any foam), and my 3 and 5 year old, it ended up in a lot of pieces...


SO for now I am without a dash pad.


On the up side, I have my center seat, and drivers seat bolted back in and I reworked all the dash wiring. It is no longer a rats nest. Little more trimming on the carpet on the passenger side and it will be complete.


Then to make a new heater box and reinstall the factory heater under the dash and plumb the turbo to the intake and make an air box.


I will keep everyone updated with pics as I get them done.
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #43  
Old 03-21-2019, 11:25 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
So it has been a while since I last posted on this build... Between work, a horrible winter here in Seattle, and other life events I just didnt have a whole lot of time to work on getting this beast back up and running. But here are a few updates...


I put in new weatherstrip around the doors and finished installing the carpet. Just need to do the transfercase shifter boots.






And I installed and wired up the new instrument cluster...



And made an air box to hopefully keep engine grime to a minimum and get fresh air from the grill between the valance and core support....



And finally here is a shot of the engine bay. I bought those valve covers for $180 and they are actually 1/4" deeper than the stock ones measured from the rib in the stock ones. With the rib ground flush, the new ones are 3/8" or even 7/16" deeper and will clear the H1 head studs without pedestal machining. Just topping off fluids and such before firing it up for the first time in almost a year since the 6.5TD block cracked.



I also have a 55 sec video I took of the first startup while it was still in the storage unit. But I cant seem to figure out how to embed the link from google photos... My pics seem to work perfectly fine.
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 03-21-2019 at 11:47 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-22-2019, 02:47 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
Well all went well on he drive from storage to my apartment garage (its only 2.2 miles). I noticed what sounds like gear rollover when coasting or barely touching the gas at anything above 35-40 mph. Its actually quiet in all 5 gears when accelerating and when using the engine compression to slow down. Its only when coasting.

I know I did have a high speed vibration before (above 55 mph) with the 6.5TD, but it wasnt bad. Only thing that changed on the driveline was moving the trans/tcase back 9" and I had a new 1410 driveshaft made and swapped the 1330 yokes for 1410's.

And the transmission and tcase sit about 2" higher as well, closer to the body and possible at a different angle... I will bet thats it... must have a pretty good difference in angle between the ujoints... I will need to find my angle finder...

On a side note... I took it out for another test drive after I secured the exhaust from touching the crossmember and a lot of vibrations and noise were eliminated (still have the grunting gear noise when coasting above 40 though). My cruising boost is between 2-3 psi and when I go from almost nothing to about half throttle, the boost shoots up and pings my 20 psi boost gauge in about a second.... and BOOOOM! WHOOOSH! No power, no accelerating, lots of smoke... Scared the hell out of me... It was a simple case of the 3" intake tube blowing out of the coupler from the compressor outlet... Put it back together, started it back up, and got home without issues... Now I know I have to figure out how to put a flare on those tubes or take them to a shop...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #45  
Old 03-23-2019, 09:17 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
So I measured my Driveline angles... on flat ground the frame is at 0 degrees, perfectly flat...

Engine/trans/tcase sit 1 degree down from front to back...
Driveshaft sits at 16 degrees down...
Axle sits at 10 degrees up...

I added 8 degree shims to roll the diff down and that took care of my vibration issues.
__________________
(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 09-24-2019 at 08:22 AM.
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  #46  
Old 09-24-2019, 08:21 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
That last post made no sense at all, sorry about that!

Well a lot has happened since my last posts. I moved back from Seattle to Albuquerque and have started flight school. Working on my private pilot license and will work up to commercial.

During the move the head gasket failed under the thermostat housing... I was about 300 miles outside of Seattle. Even with it 4 inches low in the radiator, engine temps were not an issue. EGT’s would climb to 1200-1300 very quickly in the grades. I had to watch it closely and backed off when it hit 1300... it made the remaining 1100 miles ok...

Long story short, I pulled the head when I got home and took it to a shop to be checked out. They found 4-5 cracks in each exhaust seat and 2 went deep into the head... it was junk... luckily Doug (the machinist) had a 12v head core just laying around. $450 later I had a freshly surfaced and rebuilt head. I also had the injectors tested and they all failed... the spray pattern was horrible and they all popped at 200ish Bar instead of 260 bar (about 800psi low). So instead of paying that shop $90 each to rebuild them, I ordered a set of 5x.012 SAC injectors for $400.

I have most of it back together but haven’t started it yet. Hopefully I will later this week.
__________________
(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 09-24-2019 at 08:32 AM.
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  #47  
Old 09-27-2019, 06:49 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 176
It lives! After bleeding the injectors, it fires up and runs great. Way better than before. The old injectors were low on pop pressure (about 800 psi low) and the spray pattern was erratic and stream like...

New 5x .012 injectors, new head, and I adjusted the wastegate to open at 35 psi. This thing is totally awesome.

An update on the build... I still don’t have heat or AC in the truck or an intercooler.

Eventually I will buy the air/water setup from frozenboost for about $500 for the 1200hp kit.

I will also make my own under dash box so I can have heat and AC through all the vents and have the defrosters remove moisture as well. Unless I can find an underdash combo unit that’s relatively inexpensive (3-400)

I am also in the process of building a 14b front axle. I have the axle, a 25” piece of DOM 3.375x.5 wall pipe for the long side, solid inner kingpin C’s, ford outers and all the kingpin rebuild parts. All I need are brake brackets and brakes. I haven’t decided which style I want to run. But another $500 to finish the axle...
__________________
(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 09-27-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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