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  #1  
Old 02-09-2013, 06:38 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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Tailgate relay wiring Harness. Not a fix a complete make over.

I have completed 10 tailgate relay control systems & I'll be putting more information out on these over the next few days & populate it similar to the headlight harness with details.
Update Coming up on 400 built & sold

I'll complete documentation & have it up tomorrow.

There will be 3 styles available starting out to see where the market goes. These are a complete rewire & a little harder than the headlight harness but well worth the effort. They have been in operation over the last 3 years so they are time tested. There is some info on these in the relayed headlight section.
Type #1 will be a totally hardwired version which will operate like stock switch on the dash & tailgate switch. you can used upgraded switches or your stock switches.
$100.00
Type 2 will be a totally hardwired with a wireless remote. It will have all the options of # 1 with the wireless.
$140
Type 3 wound up being a last thought & is interesting because it's really easy to install & get going. It's a totally remote where you don't wire up either switch the remote is the only thing that opens it.
$100.00
Just added type four by request. this one will just have the controller & battery power wire only. It can be used with the exsitng wire in the harnesses for the OEM guy or the guy that knows his wiring is good. The power feed & the way to factory system operates is the problem this one enhances power & totally changes the way the switches operate off of a simple 3 wire system.
70.00


The design is modular & can be done in any combination if you didn't want the tail gate switch you can easily remove the wiring. The dash switch can be eliminated also. The remote can be done later.
The harness could be put in in one day if you stayed busy. It's like the headlight harness is built of quality products & is electrically protected & the control circuit is even fused to protect from mistakes installing the unit.
It also has the capability of utilizing the factory door safety switch on the tailgate. It is built to bypass the switch but has a circuit that can very simply be changed to operate the safety. You can also used replacement or the stock switches. They will used to operate relay instaed of the motors directly which is the original systems downfall.
GI John has the 2nd prototype & Could be contacted by PM if you wish to discuss one. He has had in operation for 11 months. John helped me through the development & install stages of the build/ design. He has the wired remote system Type #2. PM him with any questions you may have he's the only one besides me that has installed one.


Breaker circuit with auto reset instead of fuse. for main power.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 02-09-2017 at 01:00 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-09-2013, 06:44 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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LOL

For the guys that want the wiring diagram.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #3  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:16 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Location: Mesquite Texas
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feeler

I'm thinking of a type 4 system which would be nothing but the controller unit that you could use to utilize your factory wiring & either you provide the 12v run to the battery. The factory 12v wiring isn't good enough. If I offered this one you would still have to run the 12v to the battery. This system would be more ecomomical & could be utilized with the existing wiring. Not that I would recommend it. You could use the existing wiring if you 're confident enough to wire it & the wiring is good enough to use. Once again the motor wiring & ground would have to be fixed in this kit. It would take a little more knowlwedge to install but it would not be rocket science. with 12v feed $70.00
For the oem guys this might be an option.

BTW these are all shipped cost included just like with the headlight bypass.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 07-14-2013 at 08:44 AM.
  #4  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:52 AM
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mathman mathman is offline
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I'm going to be needing one of these but haven't figured out which version to use, and haven't worked out some other issues yet. Probably be a month or two before I'll have some idea of where I want it to go.
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'78 J-10; '78 J-20 8400GVW
'79 Cherokee
'50 Willys (not Willy's) 4WD Pickup
  #5  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:56 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Location: Mesquite Texas
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Just call we can work in through I intend to builfd the a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mathman
I'm going to be needing one of these but haven't figured out which version to use, and haven't worked out some other issues yet. Probably be a month or two before I'll have some idea of where I want it to go.

__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #6  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:03 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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Well here's the preliminary.

Below is the instructions on how to wire the hard wired worst case. The other 3 types are different 2 easier. One harder. The harder one would be where you just get a controller & use you own wiring. It's not that hard.

This will help you see the scope & scale.

PM Me with any question lets get on th ephone & work out details open t custom onstall just like with the lights.

The remote only includes the mounting of the controller & tailgate motor pieces the only other part to it is running the black red to the battery. No switcheds to connect. easy.

I'm also working out a deal to buy extra remotes. there are 2 types a key chain fob & a sunvisotr clip one both battery operated & will work with in 50 feet of vehicle.






Tailgate upgrade wiring solution:
Remove all wiring in the tailgate to existing motor & remove the tailgate switch. DO NOT REMOVE LIGHTING WIRES TO THE LICENSE PLATE LIGHT!! Install new switch in tailgate switch mechanism or rewire existing switch your choice. Mount tailgate relay system temporarily face up using the machine screws that holds the terminal strip. You should drill 2 holes in the lip of the tailgate in the bottom left corner of the opening. The plate should mount both ways. Face up until it is installed & tested. Then you will unbolt it & flip it over & bolt it back in the same holes. Then cut the bolts off to allow the inspection cover to be remounted on the tailgate when completed. In the temporary position don’t worry if it sticks out past the tailgate opening. After install is complete you will remove the board & flip it over for protection. It’s where you have the most space.
Make sure you have nylon wire (ZIP) ties to attatch the new harness to the old lighting harness as it runs parralell to the old harness.
Once you have mounted the controller it is time to start running wires. Enlarge the holes on both slightly to ensure the harness will passes freely through the tailgate & the tailgate jamb. Once the hole is enlarged remove the breaker mechanism & the switch from the long wiring harness & tape them up to protect them while running forward. Although I protected the circuit from damage I have built a pretty strong harmness. Be aware you still need to be careful as you run the wiring & ensure you do it patiently & Keep it out of harms way. Moving parts & hot parts have top be avoided.

DO NOT pull on wire connectors or ends they're on pretty good but not made to be pulled hard on. If you do have to pull on these pull on the connectors themselves NOT the wires. I special purchased a professional crimp tool to make these as best I could but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on them. Out of 132 headlight harnesses with over a thousand connections I have had 6 issues with crimps. most could have been avoided but stuff happens. I'll be glad to replace any you may have issues with for any reason.
Take the wiring harness & put it through the tailgate & tailgate jamb hole. Leave working slack in the tailgate. Carefully select your path & follow the electrical wiring for the tailights to the front with the long harness. The harness will run up & to the left side of the steering column where the three wire fork (Separation is) in the harness will go through the firewall & to the dash switch.
The other 2 wires ( Black & Red) will run up & follow the wiring across the firewall. It will follow the wiring harness going to starter solenoid. Locate the wire there & re attach the breaker you disconnected earlier. Do not connect the wire to the battery yet.
Now going back to the tailgate you will have to rewire the motor & the tailgate switches if you chose to use the tailgate switch. There are 3 identical wires in connection in color (either Red Orange White OR Red Orange Green) as the front switch that are about 32 inches long they go to the tailgate switch. Depending on which switch solution you use will determine connectioins. Instructions will be with harness for this.
Then connect the motor utilizing the terminals that have the blue wires comming from the relay. It's not really important but try to attach the light colored motor wire to the left relay & the dark motor wire to the right relay. If the switches operate backwards then swap these 2 connections. It will reverse the action.
Now notice on the terminal strip (of the controller) there is a red wire jumping from one terminal to another terminal. This is easily identified because it has 2 crimp connectors plugged into each other. This is the safety interlock. There were 2 crimp terminals attached to the harness in a plastic bag. Locate the safety on the left side of the tailgate switch & the wire going to the safety switch. Crimp the 2 connectors provided to those 2 wires. On the red jumper described earlier Unplug the 2 connectors & attach them to the wires you just crimped. Remember the system will not run without this switch being closed when you start testing. This is also the first place you start looking if it does not work. If it does not work disconnect the safety switch & plug the 2 reds back togehter. This will indicate a bad switch if it starts working or you have not taped it to the closed position for testing. You must tape it on the closed position when testing.
Now final process chosing your solution for the dash switch.
1. Replacing
2. Eliminating
3. Rewire existing
Once the desision is made completed you should have a complete install!!
Now go back through the entire system starting in the tailgate & make sure all wires are attached & in position to be able to let the window roll up & down without issues or interference.
for trouble shooting & future reference
Connect the harness using the tag or this connection chart.
Terminal Wire
#1 Small Yellow
#2 Small red
#3 Small white or green ome have white some have green.
#4 Large red
#5 Large black
#6 Red interlock loorp form fuse. interlock connect to # 2 opposite end.
Locate the two BLUE wires running off the relays. Connect them to motor temporarily. Once you determine operation you can crimp & tape permanently. You can test & reverse wires if it work backwards.
Now mount the circuit breaker & connect the red wire to the starter solenoid by battery. I would disconnect the battery for this procedure.
Re read & re-examine the entire job & ensure the motor wires are still temporarily in the butt splices. Then test.
After a complete inspection go to the battery & attach the breaker to the fenderwell. Attach the black wire ring to the solenoid mounting bolt or a great ground. Then attach the ring on the breaker to the battery side of the solenoid.
If everything is OK flip the relay board & replace the tailgate assembly.

Good luck

__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #7  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:29 PM
CheapJeepBrad's Avatar
CheapJeepBrad CheapJeepBrad is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2012
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 176
no wiring

I have a manual crank at the back on my 82 cherk and have wanted to switch to electric for some time. I have delayed the switch in hopes on someone developing a relay kit. I have two questions.(with sub questions)

1. With the complete absence of stock wiring, will your kit work? If not what do I need to source in order for it to work? (my 82 has the blade-type fuses)

2. May I purchase a light/tailgate combo kit that allows me to mount all the relays in the same area? If so, what would be the cost?

Thanks,

Bradley
__________________
FSJs Owned/sold
87 GW: Garnet/cordovan
83 GW: Green/Peanut Butter
87 GW: Black/Cordovan
87 GW: Silver/Cordovan
74 Cherokee NT: Blue/Rust -Parted
77 Cherokee Chief: Tan/Garnet
79 Cherokee: Golden Eagle
81 J10 Laredo: Blue/Blue

Current Jeeps

82 Cherokee Chief: blue/blue
83 J10 Laredo: Red/Blk
77 Cherokee Chief: Brn/Tan
  #8  
Old 02-11-2013, 09:38 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Location: Mesquite Texas
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Hey brad

Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeepBrad
I have a manual crank at the back on my 82 cherk and have wanted to switch to electric for some time. I have delayed the switch in hopes on someone developing a relay kit. I have two questions.(with sub questions)

1. With the complete absence of stock wiring, will your kit work? If not what do I need to source in order for it to work? (my 82 has the blade-type fuses)

2. May I purchase a light/tailgate combo kit that allows me to mount all the relays in the same area? If so, what would be the cost?

Thanks,

Bradley

Well the bad you can not mount the relays in the same place one of the pluses to this set up is the relays are designed close to thier perspective loads. it simply fuctions better

Yes you could easily intall a ground up system using this kit. You would have to have the key mechanism for the tailgate or eliminate it.
This would be an ideal project for the total remote rig it would be simple & on a remote system that has a controller that could either be left in the glove box or clips righ on the sun visor. The system is design to correct electric systems in any stage of issues even if it doesn't exist. Of course you will have to put in the electric motor drive which any model will work & can be found in lots of places. not a hard project PM ME I'll send tyou my number to discuss.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #9  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:54 AM
CheapJeepBrad's Avatar
CheapJeepBrad CheapJeepBrad is offline
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Join Date: Jan 10, 2012
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 176
pm sent.
__________________
FSJs Owned/sold
87 GW: Garnet/cordovan
83 GW: Green/Peanut Butter
87 GW: Black/Cordovan
87 GW: Silver/Cordovan
74 Cherokee NT: Blue/Rust -Parted
77 Cherokee Chief: Tan/Garnet
79 Cherokee: Golden Eagle
81 J10 Laredo: Blue/Blue

Current Jeeps

82 Cherokee Chief: blue/blue
83 J10 Laredo: Red/Blk
77 Cherokee Chief: Brn/Tan
  #10  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:48 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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PM answered

__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #11  
Old 02-17-2013, 12:55 PM
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TrenchFoot TrenchFoot is offline
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Location: SnoValley, WA
Posts: 63
Defog relay?

While I have a working defog in my 78, I suspect there's a fair amount of voltage drop across the circuit due to how long it takes mine to work. Have you put any thought into building one of these kits with a relay for defog?

At $100 I'm very interested. But a full day to install is what's keeping me from pulling the trigger.
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  #12  
Old 02-17-2013, 04:01 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Location: Mesquite Texas
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I'm sure the defrost relay could be built & the day id if your moving slow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrenchFoot
While I have a working defog in my 78, I suspect there's a fair amount of voltage drop across the circuit due to how long it takes mine to work. Have you put any thought into building one of these kits with a relay for defog?

At $100 I'm very interested. But a full day to install is what's keeping me from pulling the trigger.


I put mine in in less than half of that.

I'll Have to look at the diagram for the system But It can be done.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #13  
Old 02-22-2013, 08:44 PM
Achilles's Avatar
Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,149
Serehill, since JeepinPete is not going to collect until he completes the mounts the last week of March. I am going to go ahead and order a Type 2 for 140.00 let me know when to pay ya.
__________________
1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
  #14  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:09 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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well

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrenchFoot
While I have a working defog in my 78, I suspect there's a fair amount of voltage drop across the circuit due to how long it takes mine to work. Have you put any thought into building one of these kits with a relay for defog?

At $100 I'm very interested. But a full day to install is what's keeping me from pulling the trigger.
There's a thread working right now about this & the truth is the defrost is a low level heater that does take a while to work. They are not as efficient as newer ones but with the right relay kit they can be improved that are already on the market because you can make the timer stay on longer & improve it's ability to work.

You can build this or buy it assembled f you wish but it will help then tune the timer for about 15 miutes instead of six & it will work better you can buy this alreadty assembled & it will work fine with very little modification it won't speed it up but it will work better.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 02-22-2013 at 09:15 PM.
  #15  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:17 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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I'll send you a PM to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles
Serehill, since JeepinPete is not going to collect until he completes the mounts the last week of March. I am going to go ahead and order a Type 2 for 140.00 let me know when to pay ya.


I'll send you my number we need to talk to get what you need. I have them built already.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #16  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:28 AM
Achilles's Avatar
Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,149
Payment sent. Thanks for all the information.
__________________
1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
  #17  
Old 02-24-2013, 02:13 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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Got it

I'll add the remote & get it out the door.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #18  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:07 PM
Achilles's Avatar
Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,149
Awesome, good construction and well thought out. Thanks serehill
__________________
1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
  #19  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:54 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
hey

I sent you a PM to Email me for some mor einfo. Youprobably won't need it though since tou're doing 100% custom but I have th etaigate location & switch mods I can send if you need them thanks & I'm right here for support.

Oh & watch your fingers you won't be able to stop it with your hand anymore LOL. The window on the Waggy goes up & down Up & down ( to the wheels on the wagon)
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #20  
Old 03-07-2013, 08:10 AM
Carl78Cher's Avatar
Carl78Cher Carl78Cher is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 03, 2006
Location: OK
Posts: 46
PM sent I'm looking to get a type 2 tailgate harness and another headlight harness for my 89 Waggy.
__________________
72 J2000 - under construction


Last edited by Carl78Cher : 03-08-2013 at 06:53 AM.
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