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  #41  
Old 09-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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gte901m gte901m is offline
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I'm running a large dizzy cap and a gm coil.
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  #42  
Old 09-06-2009, 09:18 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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If you use the stock wiring from the 8 pin module, it allows you to use the GM coil, which looks remarkably like the Ford E-core (aka TFI) coil.

The GM wiring harness also provides you with a tach wire hookup, too.
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  #43  
Old 09-07-2009, 08:02 AM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJ Guy
If you use the stock wiring from the 8 pin module, it allows you to use the GM coil, which looks remarkably like the Ford E-core (aka TFI) coil.

The GM wiring harness also provides you with a tach wire hookup, too.

So then would there be any real reason to swap to the GM coil Vs keeping the ford TFI coil I have now?
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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #44  
Old 09-07-2009, 08:37 AM
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jaber jaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
So then would there be any real reason to swap to the GM coil Vs keeping the ford TFI coil I have now?

Only if you want to through money away....
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  #45  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:57 AM
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Chris P. Chris P. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
So then would there be any real reason to swap to the GM coil Vs keeping the ford TFI coil I have now?

If you use the GM coil you won't need to modify the harness.
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  #46  
Old 09-14-2009, 05:04 PM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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I guess I will get a bteer idea of whats going on once I get a harness in my greedy hands. And I am gonna try my best to find a donor with the engine still in it and all hooked up so I can see where everything went and label with it pluged into.
Now all I need is some time off work to hit up a few junkyards.
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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #47  
Old 09-23-2009, 05:37 PM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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Well found a harness in a local yard and took the day off work to go out there and get it.
I pulled it from a 89 chebby 2wd 1/2ton with a 305 and a auto trans. I got the harness and 7747 computer for $150. Seemed fair enough, took me about a hour and a half to pull it.
I have spent the better part of the day drowning myslef in the harness and wiring diagrams. To the point my head is spinning, theres a lot to take in, but I am SLOWLY catching on. I am only worrying about one thing at a time. I am gonna get the harness completely straightend out before I worry about anything else.

Only sensor I got was the ESC. Figure I will get new everything else, since a couple were already missing off the donor. I didnt get the TB cause it was a 305, and high mileage. I'm gonna source a 454 TB somewhere else.
I plan on doing the full conversion with timing and the speed sensor.

What a mess



working on it.....

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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #48  
Old 09-23-2009, 06:45 PM
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gte901m gte901m is offline
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The wiring harness can be quite intimidating. My recommendation is to start with a wiring diagram of how you want to end up. I started with the diagram posted on binder planet, and modified it to my liking - see below.



Next, I labeled ALL my harness wires (even the ones I didn't need), and finally cut out the ones I didn't need. There will be a decent amount of wires you won't need. Remember, "measure twice, cut once".

Also, I would highly recommend you add wires for a heated O2 sensor, which my diagram has. Its easier to add them now, than start out with a 1 wire O2 sensor and realize you need a 3 wire one (headers). I know from experience.
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  #49  
Old 09-23-2009, 08:23 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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I've seen this diagram over there. What's the big round thing with the two circles in the middle? That's the only thing I was confused about.

Binderplanet also has a link to a nice pin-out diagram. Shows the wire locations AND the colors.

Write down what year and model truck you got your harness from. You'll need to get a matching knock sensor for your ESC that you got.

Go and buy all your sensors now. That way, it's easier to see what plugs into where. This will familiarize yourself with the various plugs and it's easy to see what wires are for what sensor.
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  #50  
Old 09-24-2009, 07:15 AM
sflier sflier is offline
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Sorry for the ignorant question, but what is the "bypass connection" going from the ECM D6 to the Ignition Control Module Pin B? Is that a straight through connection or do the arrows represent some sort of component / switch?
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  #51  
Old 09-24-2009, 11:07 AM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflier
Sorry for the ignorant question, but what is the "bypass connection" going from the ECM D6 to the Ignition Control Module Pin B? Is that a straight through connection or do the arrows represent some sort of component / switch?

The bypass is normally connected. It's just a weatherpack connector. Nothing fancy.

To set the initial (base) timing on your motor, you unplug the bypass and start the motor. It will run, but the SES (Service Engine Soon, aka check engine light) will come on. This is because the computer is NOT controlling th timing.

Set the timing on the engine. Turn off the motor. Plug in the bypass connector. Sometimes you have to unplug the ECM to clear the trouble code. Plug it back in after about 10-30 seconds. Start your engine to verify the code cleared.

You engine timing is now set. For most Chevy 350's, the base timing is zero.

I have my AMC360 running at 10 degrees base timing. That way, if the ESC fails, it'll still idle OK and sort of semi run.

Never apologize for asking a question. That's not ignorance. That's called LEARNING.
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1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

www.bigscaryjeep.com

Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
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  #52  
Old 09-24-2009, 02:01 PM
sflier sflier is offline
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Thanks Ethan, that made it clear and now it makes sense. I appreciate it.

Now if I could just decide whether to go the TBI route controlled using the GM 747 ECM or Megasquirt II ...
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  #53  
Old 09-24-2009, 05:03 PM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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I have already been to the binder planet and used those diagrams to start labeling everything, and have cut out a whole pile of stuff I dont need. I do still have a few questions and started a thread on binder planet, if anyone also goes over there.
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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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