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I decided since my tax money finally got back to me that now is the time to do the SOA in the '28, as seen below in my sig pic.
I did some checking around, magazine browsing, and some phone calls at work, and this is what I found out.
I plan to go with the center front axle housing from an '85 Chevy 4WD. I picked up an incomplete front axle housing from my local wrecking yard for $100. I ended up with the housing, R&P, and the left side steering knuckle. The stock spiders are kinda there, one of the spiders is missing, along with the cross pin. I ended up with 28-spline side gears. No axleshafts.
Between the phone calls and the magazines, I found out the following. The upper and lower ball joints are the same part numbers for both the 10 bolt and the 44 I now have. I got 4 new greasable ball joints, cost thru work was $108. I also found out that the 10 bolt axles were available with either 28 or 30 spline axles. Good deal that, I can order up either an open diff gearset or a locker of some kind for the 30 spline. The 44 axles from '72-up are all 30 spline. Axle perches between the 10 bolt/44 measure up within half an inch, a comealong on the front springs will allow the 10 bolt to fit the stock J-10 springs. If I really feel froggy I may just move the driver's side perch over a half inch tho.
The plan is to pull the steering knuckles off my 44 and swap them onto the 10 bolt axle, shafts and all. The big reason for doing this soon is that I have a bad upper ball joint on the pass. side of the 44, and don't want to wear the Bogger kinda funny. That axle's never been touched, other than to swap the drum brakes for discs and change the 80W-90. The reason I want it spring-over is because the rear is already lifted, as it is now the hotrod has a nasty rake to it.
Gains- slightly stronger/larger pinion gear. Ring gear size is same. Centersection perch atop the axle on the 10 bolt, making SOA a bolt-on, 'factory stock' deal. Gearsets and lockers slightly cheaper than for the 44 axle. Jeep steering knuckles a bolt-on deal, allowing factory steering parts to Pitman arm. 4" drop Pitman arm only steering correction needed. SOA will allow better articulation thru leverage applied to springs. No bogus 'cobbled' welding/grinding to centersection needed.
Cons- Gearset I got in the 10 bolt is a 3.42, was hoping for a matching 4.10 ratio. Gearing will be needed but the plan right now is to leave the 3.42 in, and compare driveline/engine speed between the 3.42 and the 4.11 in the rear 44. The big Caddy 500 has loads of torque, and with the twin stick I have, I can switch between front and rear Hi range for either axle. I may end up getting better mileage with the 3.42 gearset. Right now the Caddy turns 2400RPM at 60MPH, thru the rear 4.11 axle ratio. Who knows, the gearing may be a blessing in disguise...
I'll keep everyone posted as to progress and driveability. The Snap-On guy shows up at work tomorrow, and I need an upper balljoint adjusting sleeve socket...
Doc
I did some checking around, magazine browsing, and some phone calls at work, and this is what I found out.
I plan to go with the center front axle housing from an '85 Chevy 4WD. I picked up an incomplete front axle housing from my local wrecking yard for $100. I ended up with the housing, R&P, and the left side steering knuckle. The stock spiders are kinda there, one of the spiders is missing, along with the cross pin. I ended up with 28-spline side gears. No axleshafts.
Between the phone calls and the magazines, I found out the following. The upper and lower ball joints are the same part numbers for both the 10 bolt and the 44 I now have. I got 4 new greasable ball joints, cost thru work was $108. I also found out that the 10 bolt axles were available with either 28 or 30 spline axles. Good deal that, I can order up either an open diff gearset or a locker of some kind for the 30 spline. The 44 axles from '72-up are all 30 spline. Axle perches between the 10 bolt/44 measure up within half an inch, a comealong on the front springs will allow the 10 bolt to fit the stock J-10 springs. If I really feel froggy I may just move the driver's side perch over a half inch tho.
The plan is to pull the steering knuckles off my 44 and swap them onto the 10 bolt axle, shafts and all. The big reason for doing this soon is that I have a bad upper ball joint on the pass. side of the 44, and don't want to wear the Bogger kinda funny. That axle's never been touched, other than to swap the drum brakes for discs and change the 80W-90. The reason I want it spring-over is because the rear is already lifted, as it is now the hotrod has a nasty rake to it.
Gains- slightly stronger/larger pinion gear. Ring gear size is same. Centersection perch atop the axle on the 10 bolt, making SOA a bolt-on, 'factory stock' deal. Gearsets and lockers slightly cheaper than for the 44 axle. Jeep steering knuckles a bolt-on deal, allowing factory steering parts to Pitman arm. 4" drop Pitman arm only steering correction needed. SOA will allow better articulation thru leverage applied to springs. No bogus 'cobbled' welding/grinding to centersection needed.
Cons- Gearset I got in the 10 bolt is a 3.42, was hoping for a matching 4.10 ratio. Gearing will be needed but the plan right now is to leave the 3.42 in, and compare driveline/engine speed between the 3.42 and the 4.11 in the rear 44. The big Caddy 500 has loads of torque, and with the twin stick I have, I can switch between front and rear Hi range for either axle. I may end up getting better mileage with the 3.42 gearset. Right now the Caddy turns 2400RPM at 60MPH, thru the rear 4.11 axle ratio. Who knows, the gearing may be a blessing in disguise...
I'll keep everyone posted as to progress and driveability. The Snap-On guy shows up at work tomorrow, and I need an upper balljoint adjusting sleeve socket...
Doc
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