I have cleaned up every ribbed tailgate panel that looked savable and I am not overly happy with what I have. Out of 13 panels I have 3 that could be used but still have waves in them. Polishing with 0000 steel wool makes them look great till you walk around and see waves or minor shallow dents. One mans diamonds are another mans pooh.
So I found ribbed aluminum panels with 8 ribs per inch. This stuff is darn near exact. The good thing about it is it is .047 thick where the factory panel is a super thin .025 thick. The stuff I found will be resistant to dents and deformations. The bad news is, it is located in the UK. Through several emails and staring at a mm to inch conversion page, I now have enough material on the way to make 4 sets.
It should be here in about a year. LOL
So I did not know that the 350 emblems had a left and right. Putting the newly finished bullet jeep emblems on had an issue in the drivers side. They both hit each other. Checking the part number on the back showed one ending in 601 and one in 602. I unknowingly rebuilt two passenger sides.
So fortunately I have a beautiful drivers side emblem that came off the extra 70 with zero paint on it. No pitting and ready for paint work today. The second one up.
I am hand painting the rear tailgate swing away key cover also. I hope to finish that today also. Same with the "Four Wheel Drive" emblem. It kills me to put even mildly pitted items on. Ugh..
Speaking of tailgate switches. this showed up 20 minutes ago. I now have totally NOS new unused switches for the rear window in the dash and this for the tailgate. I heart ebay....
Speaking of tailgate window switches and the parts around them. I had a real tough time getting the lock cylinder out of the base. I searched high and low on the old posts and some were helpful, they did not show or describe detail. So I will....
Get a firm piece of rod to fit in the release holes in the base. The bigger the rod the better chance of pushing successfully on the spring loaded lock ring and not missing it. As long as it fits in the hole you are good.
Use the key to rotate the cylinder to where the hole lines up exactly where the back or uncut side of the key is. You are depressing this oval ring located on the back of the cylinder.
Push down on the rod in the holes while placing the square shaft against a solid object, push the square shaft against said object (table, counter top, heavy item) to help push the sticky dirty cylinder out where you can flush it clean with brake cleaner followed by a super small drop of 30WT oil before putting it back in.
I found Sadies old keys and one of the pitted key cylinders was off of Sadie. I now have that cylinder in the base and I no longer need to visit a locksmith.
Oddly my CJ-5 locking gas cap key fit another one just perfectly. So I can have a key made for it and put it on the shelf.
More coming soon. Between paint applications on emblems, I clean tailgate chrome trim pieces looking for the best ones. I start with 0000 steel wool and hit the buffer. A regular hoot.
More coffee coming up/