Another High Steer Thread, need ideas.

[xGROMx]

I have finally got my hand on a set up flat tops and now planning the high steer.

I have been looking around and weighing between perfect design and a budget. It looks like most of the parts are going to come from PartsMike. I need to get the pass knuckle machined, arms and figure out what style links.

PMD446K ARM SET "FORGED" 2" OVER KNUCKLE


These are the arms that I like, do to not having a spacer, the down side is both sides only have one connection point(others have two on passenger side). Now I know I can leave the drag link attached to the tie rod, and I don't see too much of a problem with this setup. The problem I see is the arms are not as long as the stock knuckles arms. Is this going to add stress to the steering box now that's its loosing some leverage? It seems that the same length would be best for the box and getting the same power from the box.


Second question is with new arms will I be able to reuse the stock Tierod and DragLink on the new arms?


Here is another thread I was viewing the arms on;

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=117565

This is from the thread above

[Chief Gunner]

Funny seeing my picture on another thread. I would imagine that the drag link should still work. YOu should have an adjustment on the drag link that will allow you to set it. On the tie rod, I ordered a length of DOM tubing that had left and right hand threads. That allowed me to lenthen the tie rod to make it work.

[wag4x6]

"Second question is with new arms will I be able to reuse the stock Tierod and DragLink on the new arms?"

I did a full highsteer on my SOA using the same arms from PartsMike. I was able to use all my stock steering but I had to shorten the tie rod and drag link. The holes in the Driver side knuckle turn the highsteer arm inboard a little from the stock position. If the passenger arm is machined correctly itll put the new arm in the same position as the driver side. If it is machined to match the stock steering arm it moves the end to close to the tire/rim and may interfere with them.
On to the drag link and tie rod. After I installed my highsteer arms, the mounting hole in the arms for the draglink were closer together than the stock holes. I set the toe as close to straight as I could and measured the new length. I then cut the difference out of the drag link, beveled the cut ends and made a jig to get it straight then welded it back together then I sleeved it.
I did the same for the tie rod.
My steering works great. Ive been driving and wheeling it hard for a year and a half with no issues at all.
Ill try to get some pics up for you in a few hours.

[Mr. Goatman]

I'll start by saying you'll spend some significant money on this and you should get what you want. There are many tall high steer arms available. You can get them with 2 holes for individual drag link and tie rod if that is what you want. I think the individual setup is stronger and that is what I did. But, I think the (more or less) factory setup with the DL teeing into the tierod is perfectly fine too. I though about shortening the stock tierod and in the end decided to go with this kit. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/XOGMSTE.html
I did this because it is a strong setup with replaceable ends. I did not want to have to completely re-fab the tie rod when it needs replaced. I was very happy with the quality of this kit. You will have to cut the tube to length and weld the ends. It's hard to see much detail but here is how mine turned out.

[xGROMx]

Thanks for the replies and pictures, they help keep em coming.

Gunner, did you stay with the crossover setup?

Wag4x6, thanks for the info, looking forward to seeing the setup pictures.

GoatMan, What arms are you using? I can't really tell but from the photo they do not look to have spacers under them.

[81cherokee laredo]

Mr. Goat what did you do for your sway bar?

[xGROMx]

81, give me the week and I will soon have my sways attached and I will get a photo for ya.

I plan on using the stock lengths of the sway links, with keeping it simple in mind, I am welding a 5/8 bolt to the top edge of the spring plate, should keep the sway level and out of the way of steering.

[Mr. Goatman]

Thanks for the replies and pictures, they help keep em coming.

Gunner, did you stay with the crossover setup?

Wag4x6, thanks for the info, looking forward to seeing the setup pictures.

GoatMan, What arms are you using? I can't really tell but from the photo they do not look to have spacers under them.

The arms are some generic arms with no spacer and no extra height. With the short 3 leaf- leaf springs I used off an 80 wagoneer there is enough clearance without the tall arms. With the later style 7 leaf springs your would probably need a taller arm. But, they are available with 2 holes if that is your desire.

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Dana-44-Tall-Steering-Arm

There is no track bar. The sway bar is not in the picture but is now hooked up. I cut the plates, flipped the mounting bolt and rewelded it to work on the correct side. There is a thread here with good pictures about how to do it.

[Heimeken]

I've done several of these and like these arms the best:

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=67

[xGROMx]

I've done several of these and like these arms the best:

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...duct.php?id=67

But for $286 they are the most expensive ones. They are nice, and I have been pointed to them a few times.