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  #1  
Old 12-11-2001, 03:47 PM
chariot_chaser chariot_chaser is offline
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Been working on the 86 grand wagoneer and have come across a couple problems. 1st is the oil pressure. Since I bought it last month it would read 40psi cold on the highway and after warming up would read 30 on the highway and 0 when stopped. So, tonight I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and the pressure relief valve and spring. Now stopped and warmed up it reads about 25psi and about 58psi at 50mph. My fear is that it's too high at higher speeds. Did I manage to get the pressure relief valve stuck or are these normal ranges for a healthy engine? (I'm not used to diagnosing HIGH oil pressure problems)
2nd after replacing all the vacuum lines I wanted to check the air to fuel ratio. The exhaust smells a little rich and mileage for a stock 86 seems a little low (10 on the highway). What is the best procedure for adjusting the mixture? The mixture screws seem about impossible to get at with all the vacuum lines in front of the carb in the way. How do you know when the mixture is just right?
As a side note thanks to those who helped me out with the intake manifold and head removal questions. Everything is back together and I drove it a couple hundred miles this weekend (keeping a close eye on the oil pressure and knowing I'd be under it again this week).
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Old 12-11-2001, 04:47 PM
reddog reddog is offline
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The oil pressure is fine. There are plenty around here who would be glad to have it.

With the carb one way that has been talked about lately is to connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and adjust the idle mixture screws for maximum vacuum keeping the mixture lean as possible. The screws are accessable using a long thin screwdriver. The 2150 carb blows power valves pretty easy. Pull the vacuum hose which is on the front/center of the carb on the bottom the carb off. If there is any fuel showing there the power valve is blown. That will hurt your milage.

Here is a quote from Micheal Baxters write up on a 2150 rebuild in the tech section (at 2150 rebuild)

"Now adjust the idle mixture screws in very small increments for a smooth idle. A little adjustment goes a long way when it comes to the idle mix screws. Try turning them in (leaner) 1st. They shouldn't need any more than 1-1/2 turns out nor less than 3/4 turns out. If you loose track, you can turn each screw individually until it seats (gently) and then back out the desired number of turns without the engine dying (it'll run rough though). I find 2150s usually around 7/8 of a turn for 360s. On the 2150-2, it is easiest to adjust the driver's side screw if you 1st disconnect the EGR vac. line. Since this is a port vac. source, it doesn't need to be plugged. Remember to reconnect it when done. Readjust the idle speed as necessary after setting the mixture screws"

Kerry
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Old 12-12-2001, 02:26 AM
chariot_chaser chariot_chaser is offline
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Reddog, thanks for the piece of mind concerning the oil pressure.
I did lean out the mixture a bit but not too much before it ran rough.
Looks like the power valve is blown. I pulled the front vac tube and thought I pulled a fuel line. Guess I need to get a carb rebuild kit now. Is there one that is better than the others?
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Old 12-12-2001, 03:31 AM
reddog reddog is offline
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Just to double check - you pulled the line on the BOTTOM of the carb? The line at the top/front/center of the carb is the bowl vent. If fuel is pouring out of there then it would be dirt holding the float open or just float adjustment.

For kits I usually use and have had good luck with borg warner. A two stage power valve is available that may help eek out a little more milage. Replacing a blown valve with the stock one will likely help your milage. Read this link carefully as the "cup" that goes over the valve is likely a different size than yours: Power Valve Thread

Kerry
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2001, 03:41 AM
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Michael Michael is offline
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I tuned mine with a vaccum gauge this weekend. It is a night and day diffrence of what you hear vs. what you can actually see. I highly recomend doing that. I am getting better gas mileage also. And less ping. I would do that. I have much better throttle response now too, and higher oil pressure. This a great way to go. Also you can check all your vaccum stuff too.
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Old 12-12-2001, 04:14 AM
chariot_chaser chariot_chaser is offline
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Yeah, I pulled the vac hose on the bottom of the front center of the carb. It turn's out to be the one hose I didn't replace this weekend. So I replaced it this morning when I checked it.
Is the two stage power valve in the a regular Borg warner kit or do I need to buy it seperately? Just called NAPA and they can get a power valve for about $20. I was thinking of just replacing the valve, everything seems to be running so well, I don't want to cause more problems than I have already by screwing up the carb.
I'll do the vacuum gauge tune this evening. I had it hooked up this morning and was sitting at 19 idleing in park. That just to check the job I did on the lines this weekend.
Thanks for all the help. I plan on driving it quit a bit over the holidays. My wife's family is 4hrs away and we go there often. The plus side to going that often is her dad is a gearhead and I get new tools and advice every time I'm up (timing light, tac, and vacuum gauge just this weekend). If I'd known about this I would of gotten married a long time ago.
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Old 12-12-2001, 04:32 AM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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the oil pressure relief valve is set to 75psi....
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Old 12-12-2001, 04:51 AM
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Michael Michael is offline
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Is it a fluctuating 19 or steady? Mine went to 22 steady after tunning. 20 prior fluctuating. Great way to do it. Set it to the highest steady vaccum reading and then back it of 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn to get best lean setting. Just watch that guage.
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Amc 360
TF727
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Rockwells

76' Wagoneer
401....new project

Tow Rig Daily Driver// 2007 6.7 CTD Dually
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  #9  
Old 12-12-2001, 04:56 AM
chariot_chaser chariot_chaser is offline
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Steady 19. The tube I had was a little large for the fitting I put it on so I think there may have been a little leaking.
Will any vacuum off the intake do or is there one that is better than the other?
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  #10  
Old 12-12-2001, 05:10 AM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Michael:
Is it a fluctuating 19 or steady? Mine went to 22 steady after tunning. 20 prior fluctuating. Great way to do it. Set it to the highest steady vaccum reading and then back it of 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn to get best lean setting. Just watch that guage.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Best lean is about an 1/8-1/4 turn IN; whatever causes a 50rpm drop in the idle from the highest vacuum reading (which is related to the highest idle speed attained by backing out the screws).
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2001, 06:17 AM
reddog reddog is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chariot_chaser:
Yeah, I pulled the vac hose on the bottom of the front center of the carb. It turn's out to be the one hose I didn't replace this weekend. So I replaced it this morning when I checked it.
Is the two stage power valve in the a regular Borg warner kit or do I need to buy it seperately? Just called NAPA and they can get a power valve for about $20. I was thinking of just replacing the valve, everything seems to be running so well, I don't want to cause more problems than I have already by screwing up the carb.
I'll do the vacuum gauge tune this evening. I had it hooked up this morning and was sitting at 19 idleing in park. That just to check the job I did on the lines this weekend.
Thanks for all the help. I plan on driving it quit a bit over the holidays. My wife's family is 4hrs away and we go there often. The plus side to going that often is her dad is a gearhead and I get new tools and advice every time I'm up (timing light, tac, and vacuum gauge just this weekend). If I'd known about this I would of gotten married a long time ago.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The kit has the single stage valve. I would check and see how much the kit is and you may consider getting it if the cost is not too much more. You will have to pull the carb to change the valve and likely will need the base gaskets. Careful removing/replacing the plastic carb spacer. They will break if you try to force the carb down on them too hard.

The two stage valve is a holly item but you will need to find the deeper cover to use it on your carb. Check the holly part numbers at the bottom of the power valve thread.
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87 GW<br />4\" Skyjacker system<br />TFI upgrade<br />360,727,NP229<br />it looks a little more like RiverBeast - and I\'m not dreaming!...<br />... just another 10 inches or so to go ...<br /><br />and NOW with an interesting bend to the body...
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2001, 07:35 AM
johnwaynejeep johnwaynejeep is offline
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Perfect, I've been having these same problems with the john wayne jeep but I never asked about them cause I got bigger fish to fry. Thanks for the info guys
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