Problems with Holley Pro-Jection 2D System

[jdaniel83]

Ok so I adjusted the knob on top of the throttle body down quite a bit (I did it by ear because I did not have a pressure gauge handy) and the Jeep started running quite a bit smoother. Yet after running for about 10 mintues I heard sort of a click sound and it started running even better, pretty much how it ran before all this mess started. So I adjusted the mechanical idle and went back and adjusted the MAIN and IDLE knob as the instructions said to do.
I took it for a drive and it drove ok, but after running it for about 15 minutes it started acting up again. This time when under slight acceleration it would stumble slightly almost as if it was starving and or flooded with fuel. So when I pulled it in the driveway it smelled a little lean and when I revved the motor up a little it backfired and died. I let it sit for about 10 seconds and started it back up and it ran fine and the lean smell was gone.
Does this sound just like an ECU adjustment issue or more of a sensor issue?

[Chevelleguy]

You can't adjust fuel pressure 'by ear'. You can get a cheap gauge at the auto parts store.

[jdaniel83]

You can't adjust fuel pressure 'by ear'. You can get a cheap gauge at the auto parts store.

K thanks. I tried to get one from a local O'Reilly's and they said they didn't carry any which I thought was strange. I'll look around on my day off and find one then readjust the pressure and all the ECU adjustments.

In the instructions it says the pressure should be between 12 and 15 psi for a small-block application. I was just curious if there's a certain pressure I needed to have it at or if it just needed to be between 12 and 15 psi.

[ne715]

K thanks. I tried to get one from a local O'Reilly's and they said they didn't carry any which I thought was strange. I'll look around on my day off and find one then readjust the pressure and all the ECU adjustments.

In the instructions it says the pressure should be between 12 and 15 psi for a small-block application. I was just curious if there's a certain pressure I needed to have it at or if it just needed to be between 12 and 15 psi.

With the average fuel pressure gage you'll be able to dial it in pretty well. I had to adjust my Howell after installation and it's currently running at just over 11 psi. When I first hooked up the gage it was showing ~17 almost maxed, when dialing it down and road testing it there was a very noticable difference (a good one), then all I had to do was fight the vacuum leaks.
Good luck when it's running right it's very nice.

Alan

[Chevelleguy]

The manual that came with my unit says that the pressure was factory set at 15psi but can be adjusted for 12-18psi. I have mine set on the high side at 20psi because the computer was slow to respond in closed loop and I would get a lean backfire on hard accelleration sometimes. After setting the pressure higher the problem went away.

[jdaniel83]

So here's an update:
I installed a pressure gauge and by me adding a little after tuning by ear the pressure was around 13.5 psi., which still seems to be working well. No blue smoke or rich exhaust and everything else (minus Accel and High RPM because I can't drive it very far until I get kickdown linkage setup correctly) seems to be adjusted good.
GW starts right up and Idles great. On very short trips seems to be running great. My only question would be does anyone think 13.5 psi is too low?

[Chevelleguy]

No, but you should get a rich/lean gauge if you want to get this set correctly. They are a great tuning aid.

[jdaniel83]

No, but you should get a rich/lean gauge if you want to get this set correctly. They are a great tuning aid.

Will do. Thanks.

[Michael]

The manual that came with my unit says that the pressure was factory set at 15psi but can be adjusted for 12-18psi. I have mine set on the high side at 20psi because the computer was slow to respond in closed loop and I would get a lean backfire on hard accelleration sometimes. After setting the pressure higher the problem went away.

David, can you pass emissions with the fuel pressure that high? I had the same problem as you did, but I adjusted mine to 12.5 13.5 psi and it would not pass for anything but my lean backfire...would go away. I had to lean mine out to 9.5 10 psi to pass emissions.

[Chevelleguy]

Yep, went through with flying colors. Good cat, no air pump, fresh engine, and a closed loop kit. First year to pass without some "help" (I worked at the shop previously). But that was the last time I had to pass the emission testing, now it is just a safety because of the age of the vehicle.

[Michael]

Sounds like mine but without the closed loop kit. Maybe the closed loop kit is the ticket.

[Tad]

Just an update on mine so far:
I swapped the dizzy, no noticable change (I have another B350 that will need HEI any way).

I'm on day 4 of running great.
Besides removing everything I did (additional fuel pump relay and some grounds) and resetting everything (again, I'm getting pretty fast at this).
I swapped the coolant sensor with the temp sensor location and went to a 195* thermostat (was still running a 180* with 4, 3/16" holes drilled in it, hot rod mod I read way back).
My cold idle is still too low but I'm not touching anything until after LC.
It stays steady, once warm runs great.
Pump pressure is set at 18 PSI.

[jdaniel83]

I think I may raise the pressure in mine to about 15 psi because when I drove it last night and goosed it just a bit it hesitated and backfired out of the throttle body so I'm assuming it was a lean backfire. Plus it idles the smoothest when the IDLE knob is turned up almost the whole way so I think it's starving just a bit.

[jdaniel83]

So it continues. After adjusting the fuel pressure and getting everything set (with the exception of the Accel and High RPM) the GW was running very smooth and was driving well. After driving it about 1o miles I stopped at a gas station and when I tried to start it it would not start. I know it was getting fuel because I could smell the gas, but it didn't seem to be getting spark.
Well after tinkering with it for about an hour it finally started but was not running very well. It would idle fine but if I tried to give it very much gas it would sputter and act like it was misfiring. After finally making it home I tried to rev the motor up and it sputtered and backfired but still idled fine.
I went out this morning and it started right up and ran fine. Does this sound more like a problem with the fuel injection or the ignition?

[jdaniel83]

Here's an update on the Pro-Jection:
I replaced the Accel Coil with the stock coil because it seemed to be an ignition problem as opposed to a fuel supply problem, and the GW is running fine now. I guess I may have gotten a bad coil or somehow it would stop working after it got hot. Either way the stock coil is doing the job so I'll stick with it for the time being.