Electric Tailgate Window Troubleshooting

[CJ5]

jbently's write up indicates the e and b are grounded at the front switch in the resting position. When the tail switch is operated it allows contact to be made and the window to operate properly.

In my case, it will only work in one direction unless I switch b and e at the front switch then it operates in the opposite direction.

That being true, if I remove e and b from the front switch, ground them then the rear switch would work properly. Which it does. Would this not point to a bad ground on the front switch?

And hey Rick, I appreciate the help. I know it is frustrating to explain to someone who has no clue.

[serehill]

LOL

That may be the case, but it is two separate wires. I will review the circuit and number the wires later.

Options:
Bad rear switch or connection. Connection more likely. - No bad connections
Wired wrong. - Not wired wrong
Broken wire. - No broken wires
Possible bad switch or terminals: Has to be this
The switch consist of.
e from the front on the back switch should go to c
B should go to d

How to test:
Take a paper clip jump from one to the other. E to C then B to D do not operate the back switch! Operate the front & see if it works if it does you have a bad rear switch. I will try this
If it doesn't then something is most likely wired wrong.

My vote & most likely bad back switch.

[/quote]

The switch is suppose to have internal connections that would make them work. That is part of the problem you can't see switch function such as I drew in my diagram. internally they have to connect to work.

Don't forget I changed the terminals to match your diagram.

GOOD LUCK.

[CJ5]

Ok..lol

Let me ask this then.

I have the dash switch on my desk, no connections.

I test for continuity e and h and it is good (meter beeps, lol)

I test for continuity b and h and it is no good (no beep)

Does this have to indicate there is something wrong with the switch?

To my feeble mind it indicates one works right and one doesn't and that is why the window will only move in one direction unless I swap the wires. I further my opinion of that by removing e and b from the switch and grounding them and I get a properly functioning tail switch.

If the answer is yes good. If it is no you do not have to go into why because I obviously cannot grasp it. LOL.

[aktrapper]

Bad Ground

CJ5 - I had about the same issue as you and all of my trouble shooting just confused me more. When I applied a known good ground everything was fine... I found a ground to the frame near the gas filler tube and cleaned that up and everything worked fine. Much frustration and an easy fix... Hope this helps.

[CJ5]

CJ5 - I had about the same issue as you and all of my trouble shooting just confused me more. When I applied a known good ground everything was fine... I found a ground to the frame near the gas filler tube and cleaned that up and everything worked fine. Much frustration and an easy fix... Hope this helps.

Thanks. Everything is on my bench and grounded well (so I think). I will again retrace those. The only ground in the circuit, wire wise is the dash switch.

[serehill]

it is possible.

Ok..lol

Let me ask this then.

I have the dash switch on my desk, no connections.

I test for continuity e and h and it is good (meter beeps, lol)

I test for continuity b and h and it is no good (no beep)

Does this have to indicate there is something wrong with the switch?

To my feeble mind it indicates one works right and one doesn't and that is why the window will only move in one direction unless I swap the wires. I further my opinion of that by removing e and b from the switch and grounding them and I get a properly functioning tail switch.

If the answer is yes good. If it is no you do not have to go into why because I obviously cannot grasp it. LOL.

Why do I think that is not the case is because the rear switch is doing the same thing. If it worked fine at the rear then I would agree. The malfunction appears to be exactly the same between both switches. I'm not saying that this is impossible that the front switch is bad. It doesn't appear to be. Assuming something is good is the mother of all mess ups. The fact that they are both doing the same thing & the rear switch has final say in fundtion is why I'm going in the direction I'm going in. You have to look at that ground suggestion too. I am sure the front switch has the continuity you said I don't remember it being that way. It is not required to make it work. The biggest issue here is if you have multiple problems which is a nightmare to fix. That is why I suggested starting at the back & working you way forward. getting it wo work off the tailgate switch is elementary.

[Strode]

Tim, here's the continuity test for my dash switch.



You should have continuity between B & H in the rest position, and you don't.

Let me know if you need something else from it.

[serehill]

yeppers this is correct.

Thanks. Everything is on my bench and grounded well (so I think). I will again retrace those. The only ground in the circuit, wire wise is the dash switch.

The ground is dependent on the front switch & could be the issue by non connectivity in one side that is a good point but you should be able to find the negative feeds at the rear switch are you not finding them?
Strodes print shows the dormant position. If the jumpers I suggested did not correct the problem this could be an issue.

[CJ5]

Picture 1
H-E - No
B-E - No
H-B - Yes

Picture 2 - UP
G-E - Yes
H-B - Yes

Picture 3 - Down
G-B - Yes
H-E - No

I may have got it backwards with B and E but that is correct, something is not right.

Further, with everything hooked up and all grounds secure, when I flip the dash switch up, I get 12v to both E and B and nothing happens. Down I get it to only B and the motor goes down, that is how it should work.

Thanks, Brad.

Rick, I will do your test also.

[CJ5]

The ground is dependent on the front switch & could be the issue by non connectivity in one side that is a good point but you should be able to find the negative feeds at the rear switch are you not finding them?
Strodes print shows the dormant position. If the jumpers I suggested did not correct the problem this could be an issue.

You know, according to the manual, the only ground that is listed is the front switch. The manual says the motor is grounded by the dash switch. There are no ground wires anywhere else in this circuit. It could be the motor grounds in the frame when bolted. The only way I get any movement is with the dash switch grounded properly OK, I ground B/E and use the rear switch only.

edit: I grounded the motor anyway for testing and it made no difference.

How to test:
Take a paper clip jump from one to the other. E to C then B to D do not operate the back switch! Operate the front & see if it works if it does you have a bad rear switch.

This does not produce any results.

[serehill]

That does make it sound like the front switch there.

You may have something Tim. The jump test would show that then if it still doesn't work.

[serehill]

correct

You know, according to the manual, the only ground that is listed is the front switch. The manual says the motor is grounded by the dash switch. There are no ground wires anywhere else in this circuit. It could be the motor grounds in the frame when bolted. The only way I get any movement is with the dash switch grounded properly OK, I ground B/E and use the rear switch only.

edit: I grounded the motor anyway for testing and it made no difference.



This does not produce any results.

The wires coming from the front are the grounds that make it work hence my statement the ground is dependent on the front switch. Remember the wires are switching jobs via location of the switch in the off position it feedsa ground on both side wires back to the switch which the rear switch uses when the front one is not being utilized.
E & B should be grounded normally ( no switches pushed) at the back & front switch.

[CJ5]

An error led to a discovery. When attaching my alligator clip to the ground, it was up against the rivet for the E tab. Without knowing, I tested everything and the tail switch worked perfect up and down. The dash switch worked one way but "crackled" the other way and did not move the motor. I moved the clip away from the rivet and re-tested and am back to square one. one way only on both switches. This tells me that for whatever reason the e and b are not properly grounded in the switch as they should be.

I am going to post around for a replacement switch dash switch, that has to be the issue.

[serehill]

Well

An error led to a discovery. When attaching my alligator clip to the ground, it was up against the rivet for the E tab. Without knowing, I tested everything and the tail switch worked perfect up and down. The dash switch worked one way but "crackled" the other way and did not move the motor. I moved the clip away from the rivet and re-tested and am back to square one. one way only on both switches. This tells me that for whatever reason the e and b are not properly grounded in the switch as they should be.

I am going to post around for a replacement switch dash switch, that has to be the issue.

PM sent

[CJ5]

PM sent

Thanks. I received the dash switch, wrapped in Japanese newspaper, even. LOL

Anyway, that fixed the problem. I have a working rear window in both directions from both both the rear key and dash switch.

The continuity checks and indicator that window will only go in one direction can be added to a possible fix to others with this problem. If one has a window that will only go in one direction, or is stuck in one position, a reversal of the brown and tan wire on the dash switch may give you some relief and could point to a potential fix for the problem. Do not always assume that the rear switch is the one that is bad.

Thanks all who helped diagnose this problem for me.