CJ-10a offroad conversion project

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I have posted pics in a couple Off-Road FSJ Tech threads, but thought I'd start a project update thread to show what I'm doing with one of my CJ-10as. These tugs have essentially a shortened FSJ frame. I'm converting this for road/offroad use by doing the following:

• Keep it on the cheap by bartering for parts where I can.
• Retain stock Nissan SD-33 6-cyl. diesel motor and TF-727 auto transmission.
• '90 GW Dana 44 front axle: I'm in the process of cleaning this axle up for paint; see photo below. It'll need a 4.10 re-gear, and I'd like to convert it to manual lockouts and add a locker. I'll see how the budget goes. This axle is a bolt-in for the '10a (translation = easy swap).
• Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44 rear axle: Factory 4.10 gears, rear disc brakes, 6 x 5.5" lug pattern, and it's ~58" wide WMS-to-WMS. It'll be a great match for the NT FSJ front axle.
• Plain-Jane Toyota 4-Runner steel wheels.
• NP-208 T-case: I swapped an NP-229 case for this one. It'll replace the AMC 198 case that's currently in the tug, and locked in low-range. The 208 is a bolt-in affair, and I had to extend the shift linkage by ~5-6"...an easy fix.
• 34" x 9.5" TSL Super Swampers.
• Reworked rear springs to extend wheelbase (using Sky Manufacturing spring hangers and a 2nd set of front Waggy springs).
• The rear bed is still undecided. I'm now leaning toward building a M-416-esque 1/4-ton military trailer type bed, but I have also considered using the back 1/2 of a YJ tub or running some sort of flatbed.
• Pintle hitches front & rear.

It's just getting ready to head off to JCR Offroad this weekend, where the guys there will do the following:

• Double-check all measurements & suspension setup (currently tack-welded).
• Finish weld spring hangers & shackle hangers, and gusset where needed.
• Set rear axle pinion angle & weld on spring perches.
• Weld up the rear diff ("Lincoln Locker").

These guys can weld real purty, and it'll be great confirming that everything is set up properly.

When I'm done (April '07 timeframe), I should have a unique, good-running diesel-powered Jeep that offroads well and still gets close to 25+ mpg around town.

Craig

EDIT: I added a pic of the CJ-10a as it looked when I bought it (stock form).

[bigun]

Sounds like a neat project keep us informed with lots of pics

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Originally Posted by bigun

Sounds like a neat project keep us informed with lots of pics

Will do.

I forgot to mention that the only lift required for this Jeep was a set of 1" lift shackles from BJs Offroad. They balanced out the ride height with the custom rear suspension setup. I was really excited to be able to clear 34" tires with very little lift (low C.O.G.).

Once it comes back from JCR Offroad, the to-do list will be:

• Pick up & install rebuilt front axle (being rebuilt by another Michigan shop).
• Buy & install front & rear driveshafts.
• Figure out fuel tank/cell and install (existing tank is too wide, and doesn't allow clearance for the tires).
• TEST DRIVE!
• Build rear crossmember/bumper combo, and front bumper.

Craig

[Poley]

very cool, I would like one of those

[scumby]

are you making it into a dually?

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Originally Posted by scumby

are you making it into a dually?

No scumby. The wheels/tires that are currently on it are just mismatched rollers (6-lug rear w/32" tires & 8-lug front w/stock ~29" tires). I just had the 34s in front of it to get pics, and will switch the 34s onto my set of 6-lug wheels once I install the front axle.

Craig

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

FYI...I'm selling off my other CJ-10a tug (I made a post in the For Sale forum). I may end up parting it out, as I have a guy interested in the tub, doors & top. I'll know more within the next day or two.

Craig

[scotty]

my only criticism is the use of a 44 rear axle. even with your relatively small 34" tires,i think the tug is heavy enuff for the 44 to not be reliable.

id keep the 70,give it a shave and finda matching 4.88 for the front. if its an off road rig,the extra beef and gearing will help and is worth sacrificing alittle ground clearance for

[JeepNOFEAR]

That's a cool idea

I guy around here has converted a couple of those. He says an early Toyota bed is an easy fit. Of course, finding any used Toyota truck body part around here the isn't primarily red flakes is a challenge.

[adamsclarke]

Originally Posted by scotty

my only criticism is the use of a 44 rear axle. even with your relatively small 34" tires,i think the tug is heavy enuff for the 44 to not be reliable.

id keep the 70,give it a shave and finda matching 4.88 for the front. if its an off road rig,the extra beef and gearing will help and is worth sacrificing alittle ground clearance for

I agree...a rear 60 or 14 bolts is cheap....and that 70 on the tug is WIDE!...so I definately wouldn't use that. should be a seet project.
A guy in Lynchburg, VA has 4 tugs. He converted 1 to a trail truck...with a HP 44 frt, 14 bolt rear and a rear frame and bed section from an S-10. Definately heavy, but sweet and different

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Pics from JCR Offroad. The rear crossmember/bumper still needs to be built, and the rear portion of the frame (up to the new shock mounts) will be boxed. These guys do nice work!

Regarding the Dana 44 vs. heavier axle comment, the tug isn't that heavy once you get the bobtail bed and HUGE freakin' weight removed from the back end. It'll just end up with a truck bed of some sort eventually. The Isuzu D44 will do just fine, IMO.

Craig

[bigun]

You went spring under?

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Originally Posted by bigun

You went spring under?

No, I just posted the photos upside down.

Yes, I went spring-under. There was no reason to go spring-over, as doing this would have made the rear of the vehicle significantly higher than the front. I only need enough lift to clear 34" tires. In front, that meant a set of 1" lift shackles from BJ's Offroad, combined with stock springs. In the rear, it'll get a bed of some sort, and I can design it to clear whatever I need.

Craig

[bigun]

No worries it was just kinda shocking when you see all the treads on going spring over.

[DanHS]

That looks really nice. Will the rear crosmember go between the rear shackle mounts and eliminate that overhang? I like the fabwork they did. Spring under makes sense, and now you can always spring over it if you need more lift in the future. My only thought is that you now have the ubolt ends sticking down and taking away clearance. Now I want to build one, only as a dually, just have to wait for the local Air Nat Guard base to scrap one and for me to have more time and money...

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Originally Posted by bigun

No worries it was just kinda shocking when you see all the treads on going spring over.

Originally Posted by DanHS

That looks really nice. Will the rear crosmember go between the rear shackle mounts and eliminate that overhang? I like the fabwork they did. Spring under makes sense, and now you can always spring over it if you need more lift in the future. My only thought is that you now have the ubolt ends sticking down and taking away clearance.

The rear crossmember will just be added to the rear. I thought about bobbing the frame to the rear of the shackle hangers, but I want some bed space on the rear (it won't be that big as it is). Regarding the U-bolts, I thought about going with a U-bolt flip kit, but wanted to conserve $$$. I reused the stock spring plates, shackle hangers, shackles, etc. to save some dough. I have two young kids in daycare...'Nuff said.

Craig

[scumby]

how much room do you have for a bed? 3-4 ft?

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Originally Posted by scumby

how much room do you have for a bed? 3-4 ft?

An even 48" bed would leave an inch or two between the bed & cab. At least it'll be nice for keeping the numbers "round".

A fuel cell will probably take up a little of this space.

Craig

[scumby]

add one of these to the back of it, it's 48" long.