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  #1  
Old 04-20-2007, 11:55 AM
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DanHS DanHS is offline
 
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Wow, how do I get this rusted u-joint out?

Trying to replace the axle u-joint on the right front. There's no such thing as pushing on one side to pop out the bearing cap on the other side. There's also no such thing as coaxing it out with a hammer, or drilling through it. I've moved it maybe 1/64" by hammering on it really hard. I was holding an old lugnut over the cap so I didn't hit the shaft, the lugnut is getting flattened out. Should I try using a sledge hammer? Might rip off my vise along with the corner of the work bench though. I couldn't blowtorch it because my blowtorch nozzle decided it didn't feel like working. A drill did absolutely nothing to the bearing cap, not even a mark. Maybe I should soak it in a vat of acid or something? Or bring it to a shop with a big hydraulic press? Or go to the gun shop and ask to shoot it with a BMG .50?
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  #2  
Old 04-20-2007, 12:13 PM
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CrawfishStu CrawfishStu is offline
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Soak it with PB blaster and attack it again. I usually put a socket unter the opposite side and hit the side I want to move with a coal chisel or impact extension and a 8lb maul. I put the shaft up on a block of wood and have a buddy stand on it. It doesn't move that way and it levels it out because the socket is on concrete.
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2007, 12:22 PM
J10_Jimbo_2 J10_Jimbo_2 is offline
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Once you remove the clips holding the caps in, place two sides across a vice and hit the axle to remove one side of the cap at a time. Sounds like you are trying to remove both by pushing the top down. If this is what you are doing apply heat and try to move it.
Hope this helps.
Jimbo
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2007, 03:09 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
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Sounds like it might be worth the $25 to have a shop change it for you.
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  #5  
Old 04-20-2007, 03:26 PM
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chrisnsarah chrisnsarah is offline
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I assume you did remove the snap rings.

So far, there hasn't been an FSJ bearing or u-joint that my cheapie HF hydraulic press couldn't handle.
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  #6  
Old 04-20-2007, 03:31 PM
chakaD460 chakaD460 is offline
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I had the same problem on an F-150. Turned out I didn't take the c-clips off the caps. After that they popped off with a solid hit and some sockets.

PB Blast it and let it sit for an hour or so.
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:56 PM
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mrtazwrench mrtazwrench is offline
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you can rent/buy a ball joint press, have used that with my impact to remove these.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2007, 09:34 PM
Big Rob Big Rob is offline
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When I did mine a few months ago I soaked them with PBBlaster and then took them to my shop (I work for metallurgical engineering firm) and used the hydraulic testing press to push them out. The drivers side took over 25,000 lbs of force to push out. KaiserMan might have point.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2007, 02:26 AM
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dngrs1 dngrs1 is offline
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I used to use an old trailer ball mount with holes for leveling bars and use an old socket and hit it with a 5lb. sledge untill I bought a 12 ton shop press at a yard sale for $30. Now it's a piece of cake.
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2007, 07:33 AM
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beigebomber beigebomber is offline
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Amen on the HF press. I just did this last night.Mine would have never came out with a BFH no matter how big.
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  #11  
Old 04-21-2007, 08:19 PM
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DanHS DanHS is offline
 
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Yes I removed the c-clips, those were a bit hard in themselves as two of them had rusted to the caps. I finally got the caps out with the socket and sledge hammer. I mutilated two old lugnuts in the process, and put a few dents in the garage floor. All it did to the bearing caps through all that was clean them, they're made of some really tough steel. Next time I have a shop do it, unless I get my own hydraulic press. The yokes weren't damaged but they were a little dented, so I had to clean them up with a file and then hone them out nice and smooth so the new caps would just snugly slide in. It's all good and tight now.
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'79 Cherokee S 360/T15/D20, rusting away while I figure out what to do with it

'91 Final Edition GW in Spinnaker Blue!

My FSJ pics

FSJ Grille Identification
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2007, 12:39 PM
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chrisnsarah chrisnsarah is offline
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Once you buy a press, you'll wonder why you didn't get one earlier. I bought mine because I needed to press new bearings on a D44 rear axle.

With a bearing separator, and an assortment of sockets and threaded plumbing pipe for sleeving, there hasn't been a press job I couldn't do with it. It also functions as a brake for bending brackets and tubing.

I've always used a vise for u-joints, but it seens so effortless with the press.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2007, 05:55 PM
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FSJ-Earl FSJ-Earl is offline
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2007, 06:01 PM
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mrtazwrench mrtazwrench is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJ-Earl
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!

that's about the same as mine, but mine is an otc I bought years ago at napa, and paid more than twice that.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2007, 06:22 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJ-Earl
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!


Yup. I have one, too! It is VERY easy to use and for a HF tool, very well made.

BTW, for those of you getting the HF 12 or 20 ton press, DON'T USE THE press plates that came with it!!!!!!!

They are SINTERED metal, which means they behave JUST LIKE CINDER BLOCKS. They will crack very easily and WITHOUT WARNING, causing damage to you, your workpiece or anything else in the area. I spent just over $30 and got a nice 1" thick 10"x10" solid metal plate instead. Of course, this was AFTER the sintered blocks broke on me.
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