Broken Rear Body Mount Bolts - Help Please

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  • Dave Jeeper
    232 I6
    • Sep 08, 2019
    • 155

    Broken Rear Body Mount Bolts - Help Please

    I replaced all of the body mounts on my 89 Grand Wagoneer. The rear most bolts on the driver and passenger side were rusted to the captured nuts and the bolts broke off in the middle of the bolt. I stuck the new poly bushings in there and they are being held in place by the remaining stubs of the broken bolts. When I go over big bumps, there is a really loud noise in the back, presumably from the body raising up a little and smacking back down on the frame (it sounds too loud to be my sub-woofer box and I have not gotten around to removing the sub to verify).


    I want to replace the bolts but I have not been able to identify where I would drill out the floor to get to the captured nuts. Is the tailgate in the way? Does the tailgate have to be removed to do this or can it just be folded down and the carpet lifted up?


    Is there a way to put bolts between [the channel on the underside of the rear of the body] and [the frame rear crossmember just inboard of the main frame rails] to hold the body down to the frame in the rear? Would that involve drilling out the floor or can a nut with a welded flag be inserted into the channel somehow?


    Any photos would be greatly appreciated.


    David
  • SJTD
    304 AMC
    • Apr 26, 2012
    • 1956

    #2
    Had to drill out those bolts on mine. I used a hole saw to drill the floor then drilled through the bolts. Shouldn't have to remove the tailgate.

    I'll try to get a picher tomorrow.

    Usually the captive nuts spin before the bolts break.
    Sic friatur crustulum

    '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

    Comment

    • Dave Jeeper
      232 I6
      • Sep 08, 2019
      • 155

      #3
      That's encouraging, thanks. Looking forward to pics. If you are able to get one of the floor where you drilled, it would be greatly appreciated.


      David

      Comment

      • Full Size Jeeper
        304 AMC
        • Jul 20, 2014
        • 2475

        #4
        This is on a 78 Wagoneer.
        1978 Wagoneer

        401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

        Mods:
        Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box

        Comment

        • Full Size Jeeper
          304 AMC
          • Jul 20, 2014
          • 2475

          #5
          1978 Wagoneer

          401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

          Mods:
          Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box

          Comment

          • Full Size Jeeper
            304 AMC
            • Jul 20, 2014
            • 2475

            #6
            Cage for nut.
            1978 Wagoneer

            401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

            Mods:
            Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box

            Comment

            • Dave Jeeper
              232 I6
              • Sep 08, 2019
              • 155

              #7
              Thanks, that looks like it can be done with the tailgate in place.

              Comment

              • Dave Jeeper
                232 I6
                • Sep 08, 2019
                • 155

                #8
                I'm not able to re-use the original square nuts, so I will probably use a regular nut on top and a socket during installation, or weld a flag to the nut before inserting so the flag will hit the side of the channel and keep the nut from from spinning.

                Comment

                • Full Size Jeeper
                  304 AMC
                  • Jul 20, 2014
                  • 2475

                  #9
                  I cut some flat bar into squares and drilled and tapped.
                  1978 Wagoneer

                  401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

                  Mods:
                  Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box

                  Comment

                  • threepiece
                    350 Buick
                    • Sep 17, 2005
                    • 1433

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Dave Jeeper
                    I replaced all of the body mounts on my 89 Grand Wagoneer. The rear most bolts on the driver and passenger side were rusted to the captured nuts and the bolts broke off in the middle of the bolt. I stuck the new poly bushings in there and they are being held in place by the remaining stubs of the broken bolts. When I go over big bumps, there is a really loud noise in the back, presumably from the body raising up a little and smacking back down on the frame (it sounds too loud to be my sub-woofer box and I have not gotten around to removing the sub to verify).


                    I want to replace the bolts but I have not been able to identify where I would drill out the floor to get to the captured nuts. Is the tailgate in the way? Does the tailgate have to be removed to do this or can it just be folded down and the carpet lifted up?


                    Is there a way to put bolts between [the channel on the underside of the rear of the body] and [the frame rear crossmember just inboard of the main frame rails] to hold the body down to the frame in the rear? Would that involve drilling out the floor or can a nut with a welded flag be inserted into the channel somehow?


                    Any photos would be greatly appreciated.


                    David
                    You may be able to connect locking pliers to the remaining bolt/stud after jacking up the body some. I recommend using curved jaw pliers as opposed to strait jaw and apply heat if possible.
                    FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
                    We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
                    We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
                    Resistance is not futile yet.
                    Are you and your children connected yet?

                    Comment

                    • Dave Jeeper
                      232 I6
                      • Sep 08, 2019
                      • 155

                      #11
                      The rear mount support metal and the rear mount bolts are still present, but have rusted severely due to all the road salt that is thrown up onto them by the rear wheels. I don't think that it is worth trying to save the rear nuts. It will be easier to use an air hammer to break the retaining cage, then replace the bolt and nut. It seems that it is possible to drill out the floor above the nuts without removing the rear hatch, based on the replies to this post.


                      David

                      Comment

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