Front e brake cable removal

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  • Dodgetk81
    230 Tornado
    • Dec 02, 2018
    • 3

    Front e brake cable removal

    I did an LS swap in my 90 GW. Moved the crossmember back to the 2nd set of holes. I picked up the j truck front cable that’s a little longer. I have the retaining clip off of the pedal assembly and the wire end is out of the pedal itself, but I can’t get it to pull out. I assume it pulls out from underneath? Do I need to remove the pedal assembly? It’s all free underneath, I just can’t get it separated from the petal assembly.
  • wiley-moeracing
    350 Buick
    • Feb 15, 2010
    • 1430

    #2
    If I remember correctly, you will need to remove the pedal assembly out so you can access the cable at the bottom, I think you need to squeeze the cable sheave locking tabs to get it out.

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    • ZackN920
      350 Buick
      • Nov 18, 2015
      • 945

      #3
      I just did this during the past month when I rebuilt my frame rail. I replaced all the parking brake cables since everything was apart. They were all rusted to poop.

      On my 1990 GW, I did NOT have to remove the pedal assembly to get the cable out. Don't really know why you would have to either, you don't gain any space from the bottom side.

      I just disconnected the end at the pedal, left the line connected on the crossmember and worked like hell at it to push(from inside at the floor) and pull from underneath. It is a tight space for the grommet and cable to get through and then make the bend. That's why its a pain the arse. I do remember using some silicone spray lube on the grommet and a bunch of screw drivers as little pry-bars to work that grommet out from the inside. Once you get it worked out where you can see the hole in the floor, the job becomes easier.

      I also used a large crowbar underneath, leveraged against the frame and the cable to pull it out. This is where having the cable still connected to the cross member comes in handy. unfortunately for you, that's not the case and you wont be able to use a crowbar like I did. Hopefully though, your jeep is nowhere near as rusty as mine was.


      Getting the new cable back in isn't easy either. But nowhere near as bad getting the old one out. Mainly its just getting the grommets re-aligned back up when things are together. (OH, and you re-use the old grommet unless your new cable has the 90* bent end grommet)
      1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

      AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
      Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
      ...in pieces for more rust repair...

      Comment

      • ZackN920
        350 Buick
        • Nov 18, 2015
        • 945

        #4
        Originally posted by wiley-moeracing
        I think you need to squeeze the cable sheave locking tabs to get it out.
        I didn't have anything like this to do on mine for the front cable. Only ones that worked like this were the cables going to each rear brake drum housing. Other than that, the cable ends use a clip that you slide on and off. In my case, for the clips that broke/were too rusty to use I just replaced them with E-clips. They hold them ends nice and tight.
        1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

        AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
        Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
        ...in pieces for more rust repair...

        Comment

        • Dodgetk81
          230 Tornado
          • Dec 02, 2018
          • 3

          #5
          I got it. Thanks for the help. I just had to fight with it.

          Comment

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