Steering Wheel Play - New Steering Box?

[Lyman DeKoquonut]

All of the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, in my 1991 GW are fine, I still have a lot of "play", maybe 3-4 inches, in the steering wheel. I hate it, and it may kill me.

Is replacing the steering box something a relatively handy man with good tools can do himself? Any suggestions on what to get if I do it myself (ie, rebuilt, new, aftermarket)

THANKS!!!

[The Anti-Chrysler]

Do a search on the S-10 steering box swap. That should answer all of your questions.

Welcome to the board, too!

[crispyboy]

Lyman,
I was in the same situation as you were. I just put back a stock replacement (remanufactured) box. Took away my steering problems.
It is a somewhat involved job. Took me about 4 hours but I am slow. The hardest part was getting the pitman arm off the old box. I used a puller and some heat.
It takes two people to flush the system and a couple quarts of oil.

[IronDog]

I'd try to adjust it first. See this library article.

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/steering/boxadj.shtml

Worked just fine on mine.

[Great Pharoah]

Ditto what IronDog says. Much easier to do with the radiator out. I had at least that much play and took most of it out with adjustment.
mike

[Lyman DeKoquonut]

THANKS FOR THE HELP! I will give the adjustment a try first.

[tgreese]

Originally posted by IronDog:
I'd try to adjust it first. See this library article.

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/steering/boxadj.shtml

Worked just fine on mine.

FYI - that article tells you to do exactly what the Jeep manual tells you not to do. You have two adjustments - the bearing preload and the pitman arm mesh. The manual says you must adjust the preload (big nut that the shaft goes through) before you adjust the mesh (screw on the top). It just makes sense that you'll need to remove the bearing end slop before you push the pitman arm gear harder into the worm.

This topic has been covered before. I'd suggest you look at the old posts before you turn the mesh screw.

[crispyboy]

I tried to adjust my steering box but it did not help at all. May have even gotten worse.

[Nobby]

Have you replaced the rag joint and or upper steering column shaft u-joint?
I did mine a while back new ball joints, tie rods, steering box, rag joint. Still have a little play coming from the upper U-joint. Its incredible how a little movement on the steering column shaft joints translates to alot at the wheel.
Ditto what tgreese said on the adjustment thing

[Lyman DeKoquonut]

I think I need to find a mechanic that knows what he is doing with this, the last thing I want to do is screw it up worse...

The sad part is that the tire shop and the general mechanic I use and trust for everything else both just scratched heads over the steering.

Would a Jeep Dealership be worth it or would they ream me?

[The Anti-Chrysler]

Originally posted by Lyman DeKoquonut:
I think I need to find a mechanic that knows what he is doing with this, the last thing I want to do is screw it up worse...

The sad part is that the tire shop and the general mechanic I use and trust for everything else both just scratched heads over the steering.

Would a Jeep Dealership be worth it or would they ream me?

This is really rudimentary stuff here (steering on an old Jeep) - if they were scratching heads over this, then you should be going elsewhere.

I recommended the s10 steering box, because it's a bolt-on, and there's no adjustments to make.

The dealership is going to put on a service replacement steering box, and I bet you will pay around $1000 by the time you get out of there.

This is of course assuming all of the problem is from your steering box, which I'm guessing it mostly is. All the one's I've come across have been worn out pretty badly.

[ November 16, 2004, 02:35 PM: Message edited by: The Anti-Chrysler ]

[flatbackdragon]

get the s10 box, simple swap, make sure tires straight before taking off pitman arm (makes it simpler when reattaching, and you may need to rent/buy a pitman arm puller, trust me find one, you will need it.) pull off rag joint, unhook lines from your box(they will fit the s10's holes) 3 bolts its out 3 its in. turn the new box right/left and find center, rehook rag joint, pitman, fill with fluid.
I did this AFTER replacing ALL the ball joints, tie rods, all wheel bearings, moreless a whole new front steering assembly. What a difference that s-10 box made.
To aid it working out any air in the system, (you will get some in it, the reservoir probably will drain,) jack up both wheels, use jack stands, fill reservoir, start engine and work the steer wheel back and forth slowly, check fluid often, til no more fluid goes in and air bubbles work themselves out. My box was stiffer than **it for several turns then suddenly popped and worked real sweet, best power steering this ol thing has ever had, I didn't have it aligned or nothing after all the work on the front end and it drives straight and great.
replace the box, its easy and you'll never regret it.
do a search on this site for which boxes you can use and any other info you may need.
this is a great site for info.

[ November 16, 2004, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: flatbackdragon ]

[Elliott]

Here's the adjustment process on Parts Mike's site:

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/saginaw_steering_box_adjustment.htm

Saginaw Steering Box Adjustment

The nut and screw adjust Worm bearing Preload and Sector shaft mesh. NOTE! The steering gear must be out of the vehicle to adjust it on all 1974 and later Saginaw rotary gear units. The earlier models can be adjusted (sector shaft preload) on vehicle. Here is the manner that GM Saginaw Division recommends how to adjust. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft, completely back off the sector shaft adjusting screw on the sector shaft cover. Center steering on the "high point" then attach an inch lb torque wrench to the steering wheel shaft, the torque required to keep the shaft moving for one complete turn should be 1/2 - 2 in lbs. If the torque is not within these limits, loosen the thrust bearing locknut or tighten valve sleeve adjuster plug to bring the preload within limits. Tighten the thrust bearing locknut and recheck preload. Slowly rotate the steering shaft several times, then center the steering on high point. Now, turn the sector shaft adjusting screw until a steering shaft torque of 3 - 6 in lbs more is required to move the worm through the center point. Tighten the sector shaft locknut to 35 ft lbs and recheck the sector mesh adjustment. Total steering gear preload should be 14 in lbs or less. Install the pitman arm and replace back in vehicle. To try and adjust the sector shaft screw without doing the preceding will DAMAGE the steering gear. Most of the play is not in the sector shaft adjustment, it is the spool valve area.

[Lyman DeKoquonut]

Found a better mechanic, he did the adjustment for 18 bucks (had the radiator out to be replaced at the time). There is only about 1/2 inch of play now, TONS better, but the GW still likes to wander now and then and has to be corrected. I have good tires and everything in the front end checks out ok - Is there any "non-dealer-spec" allignment adjustments that will help?

[Tripwire]

I guess I missed something )-: whats the advantage in the S10 conversion vs getting a rebuilt Jeep box from Nappa ? are they cheaper or more reliable? I gotta fix my sterring as well.