It followed me home,

[scout4bta]

New injectors are in. The low pop pressure would advance the timing. I think it will cure the exhaust flame.

Now have a port in the fire wall for to see where the exhaust might route.

[rang-a-stang]

That is good news! When do you plan to land the engine in the frame?

[scout4bta]

That is good news! When do you plan to land the engine in the frame?

Just before the holidays started I almost had the whole combo in. I had the engine/trans in no problem. Added the Tcase and kept having the tcase hit the tunnel. Not just the top but also the front output side. I thought about bolting up the crossmember to the trans and maneuvering it around but ran out of steam and time.
Revisited the problem today and noticed I that if I remake the trans mount I have at least .375" I could move the trans mount up, lowering the Tcase which should solve that problem. If it doesn't I'll probably have to add some more holes to the clocking ring to drop the front output down.
One thing I can say is putting the engine/trans/t-case in as one unit is the way to go.

[scout4bta]

Remade the rear trans mount. Probably lowered the trans over an inch.
Before:

After:

[scout4bta]

Here's how you feed a power train as one unit into a SJ
Set the angle to about 26 degrees. I've probably maxed out on the 1/2 ton limit at full extension.

[scout4bta]

Just wide enough.

Here's where the lifting table coms in. By changing the height of the table you can change the tilt of the powertrain so it slides in.

[scout4bta]

Install the isolators.

I did find that its easier to install the crossmember to the powertrain and then use the lifting table to aline the crossmember to the frame.

[scout4bta]

Should be plenty of room for the shifters. I did find that the powertrain is now at 7 degrees, I'd planned for 6 degree, room for improvement.
EDIT: It took a .5" shim to bring the tilt down to 6 degrees. At least now I can adjust up or down if need be.

Exhaust is where I estimated. The extra hole to the left is from one of the previous owners. What was it for, have no idea.

[scout4bta]

Have the fuel tank in temporarily, it fits. It's from:
Blazer (Full Size): 1982-86 25 gallon
Blazer (Full SIze): 1987 25 gallon, diesel
Jimmy (Full Size): 1982-86 25 gallon
Jimmy (Full Size): 1987 25 gallon, diesel
Suburban: 1982-86 25 gallon
Suburban: 1987 diesel, 25 gallon

Had to add 1 inch spacers for clearance for the filler.



GM15B

[scout4bta]

Access to the top shock mounts,





Still have to put in the straps and rubber cushions.

[scout4bta]

Have the 25 gal tank hanging on it's own. Had to drill the holes on the passenger side for the straps, the Drivers side had them in the right place. Will have to relocate the brake line for the rear axle, used that hole for the strap.
And yes there is room to remove the shocks without removing any thing else.
And there is the optional 33 gal tank if you so choose, It's 12" deep instead of 9" for the 25 gal.

Mounts for the front of the tank

The rear strap mounts.

[scout4bta]

Last of the fuel tank:


[![DSCN3312_copy.jpg]

[scout4bta]

The sending unit (sufg12A) for the chevy tank has a ohm reading of 90-94 ohm full and 0-1.5 ohm empty. If I researched correctly the SJ has a full ohm of 100-115 ohm and 0-5 ohm empty. Close enough!

Gas tank sending unit
Applications:
Blazer/Jimmy: 25 gallon Rear Mount Tank, Diesel
1984-86
CK10, 15, 20, 25, V8 379 (6.2L), w/o E.E.C.
1987
RV10, 15, 20, 25, V8 379 (6.2L), w/o E.E.C.

Suburban: 25 gallon Rear Mount Tank, Diesel
1984-86
CK10, 15, 20, 25, V8 379 (6.2L), w/o E.E.C.
1987
RV10, 15, 20, 25, V8 379 (6.2L), w/o E.E.C.

Number of lines: 3
Original Part Number: 25004087
Included with Sending Unit: Lock ring set and strainer
Packaging: Boxed
Part Number:SUFG12A

[scout4bta]

It's been too cold for me to work in the shop untill it heats up and that's around noon if the suns out. Thats why not much progress, unlike thoses who live in the NE and put on a snow suite and continure to work in the real cold.

Back to work, kind of. 2 weeks ago I put the wagon up on ramps so I could work underneath comfortably. Got the rear axle lowered onto the ramps and the garage jack let me down. It wouldn't jack up any more, unless I used all my strength to lock the valve. Can't complain it been in use for over 40 years.
Called the company that made the jack, no repair parts, too old. But found a hydraulic jack repair company and they had the kit. The kit arrived today, so its back to work, on the garage jack.

[scout4bta]

The floor jack is back in operation.
Next is to replace the 5/16" fuel line with 3/8" Cu Ni fuel line. Realized that the 4B has 3/8 line in and the new fuel tank has 3/8 line out, so why fight it? The return lines are all 1/4".