Tips of splitting QT case

[Rusty76]

Hello: I've got a really slow leak from the case. I sooo want to leave it and forget about it but I wont. So the first time I split the case it seemed doable.
Unfortunately when I closed it up I ran a bead of RTV. This time I'm having a hard time to cracking it open. Super nervous about damage and rendering the case useless. You guys have any tricks?
Thanks Again!

[babywag]

Thin stainless scraper and just ease into it.
Yes it's aluminum but fairly thick and not brittle.

[Rusty76]

Got it done. Just needed a little persuasion.
Thanks Tony! New seal kit is in the main.
Has anybody used the rubber band seal that is suppose to fit between the two halfs. Last time I tried it seemed impossible but I've read that it will work.
Seemed way too big.

[Cliff]

I just used the Gear Oil RTV - works great.

[rang-a-stang]

That seal only works on certain years of QT cases. I think 78 and 79 maybe? My first QT case had it, the QT case I am running now does not.

A couple little tid bit of lesson learned:
1) When you are putting it back together, put it together on the truck. What I mean is, do all your cleaning, new gasketing to the halves, etc. Then install the forward half of the case onto the trans, Then install the gears and chains, then install the rear half, etc. It sounds like this would suck but it's SOOooooo much easier than trying to heave a loaded QT on w/o marring the 2 input shaft seals.
2) There are supposed to be 2 seals on the input shaft to the Xfer case (out put shaft of the trans). They go in the case in opposite directions. PAY ATTENTION TO PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT WAY or you will be doing this again, soon.
3) I made alignment dowels out of some grade 5 bolts. If you want to borrow them, I will ship them to you and you can ship them back. OR go to your local hardware store with the 4 bolts that hold your case to the trans. Buy the same threaded bolts but about 4" long. Cut the heads off the bolts you just bought and cut a line across where you cut the bolts so you can use a screwdriver to remove them. Having these alingment dowels and doing tid bit #1 above will prevent you from having to pull your case again. I have probably pulled my case 10 times in the last 4 years. I have it down to a science at this point.

[Rusty76]

Thanks for the info. Rang, I have a couple questions.
This will be the 2nd time, really hoping the last for awhile.
Just to triple check the two seals face away from each other.
As in the tiny metal spring that wraps the rubber seal face away.
One faces towards the trans, the other faces toward the case.
Correct?


I like your idea of splitting the case. I'm sure when I originaly put the case in I damaged the seals. One question after you get the first half up and built do you just run a bead of RTV with half the case mounted? Seems like the verticle nature of this would be tricky to run the RTV.

Thanks

[Rusty76]

Get off work in the am. Straight home and into the garage, hoping to be cruising by dinner. That's best case scenario...

[rang-a-stang]

Thanks for the info. Rang, I have a couple questions.
This will be the 2nd time, really hoping the last for awhile.
Just to triple check the two seals face away from each other.
As in the tiny metal spring that wraps the rubber seal face away.
One faces towards the trans, the other faces toward the case.
Correct?


I like your idea of splitting the case. I'm sure when I originaly put the case in I damaged the seals. One question after you get the first half up and built do you just run a bead of RTV with half the case mounted? Seems like the verticle nature of this would be tricky to run the RTV.

Thanks

I think that is correct (spring to spring but I don't have the service manual in front of me to verify).

That is EXACTLY what I did! Damaged the seals when I installed it.
Here was my thread when I was dealing with it.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=187382

yep! First half goes on, sprocket/chain go in, bead of RTV on the half that is on the floor, lift it up and install it. It does not need much, either! Just a skinning, not a bead.

I did not use RTV between the trans/case and mine does not leak right now. On mine, There was a rubber seal that seats in there. I did not use the paper gasket, just the big O-Ring.

[Rusty76]

Interesting. Ok rang I'm going to try and install that way. I wonder about the RTV on the smooth 2nd half of case to get installed. The case half that will hold all the guts and installed first has the groove for a gasket/ large O-ring. Last time I just filled that groove up with RTV and spread it out.

On my first attempt I used the paper gasket between Trans and QT.
I dont think I have the groove for the o-ring. This time as per Flints instructions I picked up 1/32 gasket paper. I'm also going to spread a thin bead on both sides.

I had less stress on cam break in! I love the QT's but man seem like I need to do some secret dance to the leak gods. Keep you posted. Cant wait to get at it.

[Rusty76]

Well of course it didn't go as smooth as I had planned.
New QT seals and gasket went on great. Slide half the case onto the trans, all good, enjoying this. Then I did about 100x QT bench presses trying to mate the two halfs. For some reason I could not get it to drop that last inch.
Super frustrating. Pulled it all out again and now trying to get it to drop that last 1 inch on the workbench. No go.. Even when I rotate the rear output shaft to get the e-drive assembly to interlock. I'm out of ideas. Except a FOR SALE sign and going sheep hunting..

[rang-a-stang]

I do not mean to insult your intelligence but you are doing it without the low range unit installed, right? Can you feel where it is getting hung up? Is it the cases not mating correctly, the out put side, or other? Maybe the case is not shifted into e-drive but the shifter is?

[Rusty76]

No offence taken on the Low Range. Yes its off. I was thinking about the e-drive as well. Not sure how to tell if its in e-drive? I just took apart the QT diff again.
I noticed the new brake cones that I replaced about 1yr ago are tight and stuck.
I needed to rubber mallet them out. Maybe I've been tightening down the end caps way too tight.

The case is not the problem. Its getting stuck in the diff somehow.
Either the spider gear or at the top. I don't recall having a problem last time I split the case. Must be doing something wrong. Back at it.
Thanks for the help.

[rang-a-stang]

Copy that. I got nothing; mine is part time converted. Let us know what you find!

[Rusty76]

I just don't get it. It has to be something sooo simple.
Its definitely the e-drive gears that are not meshing with the QT diff.
I've moved the e-drive gear up and down. Still will not drop that last 2 inches.
New Jeep T-shirt to who ever can figure this out.

[Rusty76]

Soooo when you work a 24hr shift and start wrenching as a rookie its best just to go sleep first. Yup pretty simple fix. Diff gears not aligned enough to mesh.
Embarrassing! Delete this thread...