First, I don't know exactally how or what type of U-bolts to use. I would like to use regular round ones, and a plate on top, but was told I would have to grind away some of the housing, because Ford used square ones, with a plate on the bottom. Any ideas here?
Secondly, I was told that using offset pads and flipping my springs end to end, would create to much of a caster problem. Could'nt I just degree shim that dued back close to normal? And what is the best position to have the pinion in? I was thinking that the flat surface on the top of the kingpin shold problably be level? If I have it level, would I be correct?
Third, I was also told that moving the axle forward without moving the steering gear forward would mess up my steering. But isn't that why Poison Spyder arms have several sets of holes, so you can move the drag link to a position that best makes the drag link parrallel with the axle tube?
I know several of you have done this swap, and by now have all the kinks out. Anyinput will help me get this done, so I can get the engine in and start cutting the frame! Thanks, Dennis
Secondly, I was told that using offset pads and flipping my springs end to end, would create to much of a caster problem. Could'nt I just degree shim that dued back close to normal? And what is the best position to have the pinion in? I was thinking that the flat surface on the top of the kingpin shold problably be level? If I have it level, would I be correct?
Third, I was also told that moving the axle forward without moving the steering gear forward would mess up my steering. But isn't that why Poison Spyder arms have several sets of holes, so you can move the drag link to a position that best makes the drag link parrallel with the axle tube?
I know several of you have done this swap, and by now have all the kinks out. Anyinput will help me get this done, so I can get the engine in and start cutting the frame! Thanks, Dennis
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