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i can confirm it was yellow from the factory.
i have removed OEM insulation from 2 wagoneers
1988 and 1990
you could tell it was sprayed in a wide pattern
and it was indeed yellow.
i am using dynamats hood liner.....
not OEM but better in my opinion
once,...some old fuzzy OEM insulation was hanging down, my carb back fired and the small flame from the carb ignited the OEM insulation.
i did not think it was flammable but the fuzzy strands did burn.
so i think the foil face on dynamats product is nice...for several reasons.
dave in NC
SOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
I have been looking at the dynamite type hood insulation. Let us know what you think after installed. I really wish they would have the stuff in black though. I don't like too much shiny!
* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
Contact cement sprayed with a primer gun is the proper way. It's often referred to as gorilla snot.
Locally and cheaply, get a $15 gun from harbor freight and a container of Weldwood contact cement from the hardware store. You can use the same for headliners and carpeting as well.
Remember kids if you spray a nice heavy coat of contact cement on both the hood and the_____________ (whatever you used here), go take a 10-15 min nap, then come back and push the two together, boom! your done. Ajax wont take that off..
: 98 9er
'83 Honcho j10
'12 Liberty Ltd.. wifes
'19 Chaparral H2o Dlx sport 21
'85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread
Did you know?Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.
I was debating using some of the asphalt sound deadening material and reflective insulation. I was mostly worried about heat loosening the asphalt and all of it dropping onto the engine while driving. Anyone have any experience with the heat loosening the glue?
I use Pliobond for heavy duty gluing. It is better than weldwood products.
It is also gas, oil and wind proof. Follow the directions exactly. The max strength is obtained in 7 days. Something to keep in mind.
If you want to glue a rock to a piece of glass. This is the glue for you.
Pliobond contact cement is ideally suited for bonding steel, wood, rubber, leather, canvas, aluminum, fiberglass and glass. - Hanna Rubber Company
Melford1972 says...
I’d say I feel sorry for you, but I really don’t, Mr. “I-stumble-into-X-models-the-way-most-people-stumble-into-Toyota-Carollas.” 🤣
-----------------------
I make wag parts
1969 CJ-5 41 years owned
1969 1414X Wag in avocado mist
1970 1414X Wag in avocado mist
1968 M715 restomod
2001 Dodge 3500
2002 Toyota Tundra
2006 Toyota 4runner was Liz's, parked
Building a m715 over at the m715zone
Beloved wife Elizabeth Ann Temple Murdered by covid on Oct 19th 2021
I was debating using some of the asphalt sound deadening material and reflective insulation. I was mostly worried about heat loosening the asphalt and all of it dropping onto the engine while driving. Anyone have any experience with the heat loosening the glue?
I wouldn't use the asphalt based products under the hood. They are not designed to go there and are typically very heavy. I suspect they are also flammable . Go with the stuff that is designed for engine bay.
* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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