CS-130 upgrade, ammeter bypass, now wont start?!? (nevermind, fixed it)

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  • Charlie_B
    327 Rambler
    • Dec 18, 2005
    • 644

    CS-130 upgrade, ammeter bypass, now wont start?!? (nevermind, fixed it)

    I just finshed putting in the new CS-130.(I bought the adapter from Napa for it) I also went ahead and bypassed the ammeter. I ran a 8 ga wire with a 80 amp fuse to the pos (batt) side of the solenoid. I removed all the red wire that was connected to the alt. Then clipped the two wires on the back of the ammeter. I used the "hot" yellow wire to wire up my voltmeter. I attempted to remove the gauge cluster. (maybe something unplugged?) would some connector on the back of the gauge cluster prevent the vehcle from starting? Is there anything wrong with the way I have this setup? How do I check the solenoid? (just jumper across it?)

    edit: Okay, nothing has power, yet I read 12v off of the yellow wire that used to go to the ammeter..... SOOOOO I assume there is something wrong with the way I have this wired?

    edit: Guess I shouldnt have cut the fuse box, ign switch, etc. out of the loop? SHE RUNS!!!!!!

    Thanks
    -Charlie

    [ January 21, 2006, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: Charlie_B ]
    '79 Cherokee "Goldie" - under the knife Part I; Part II
    Currently: body is on, now finishing undercarriage
    '92 Cherokee "Rusty" - 3" lift, 31s
    '05 Evo MR "Eve"
  • andy d
    Shade Tree Shaman
    • May 06, 2000
    • 7205

    #2
    does the starter crank?

    http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/79/79_FSJ_...agramPage3.jpg this may help too.
    \'88 gwag,pure stock

    Comment

    • ChiefTawny
      258 I6
      • Jul 28, 2005
      • 379

      #3
      so what did you find?
      SOLD!!!
      77 Cherokee Chief
      BJ's 6" lift
      35's on rusty white wagons

      Comment

      • Charlie_B
        327 Rambler
        • Dec 18, 2005
        • 644

        #4
        I had completely taken out the wire that originally went from the alt to the bulkhead. Then used the yellow for my volt gauge. So the fuse box, ignition swicth, etc. werent getting any power. I guess I shouldve just moved the original wire to the + post on the solenoid instead of eleiminating it. (thats how I ve got it wired now.... Works great! Now I gotta get a new batt....
        '79 Cherokee "Goldie" - under the knife Part I; Part II
        Currently: body is on, now finishing undercarriage
        '92 Cherokee "Rusty" - 3" lift, 31s
        '05 Evo MR "Eve"

        Comment

        • mdill9
          350 Buick
          • Sep 21, 2004
          • 772

          #5
          Ahh, I think you almost had it right the first
          time, but should have tied the yellow to the
          red at the back of the amp meter. Right now the
          red does not offer any protection (no fusable link in it) Where if you power the main fuse panel from the
          Yellow, It has a link in it to protect the harness.

          Mike D.

          [ January 21, 2006, 09:04 PM: Message edited by: mdill9 ]

          Comment

          • Charlie_B
            327 Rambler
            • Dec 18, 2005
            • 644

            #6
            I will do that. Ive still got the red wire under the dash, and the yellow. I didnt know the yellow had a fusible link... Right now both yellow and red are seperately fed off of the solenoid. I will just have to find a better place to get a voltage reading for my gauge.

            BTW: this site is the best. I went to Napa with a shopping list, and aside from the small confusion with the wiring, had everything I needed, and relatively no problems. (knock on wood) she better start this morning....

            Thanks
            -Charlie
            '79 Cherokee "Goldie" - under the knife Part I; Part II
            Currently: body is on, now finishing undercarriage
            '92 Cherokee "Rusty" - 3" lift, 31s
            '05 Evo MR "Eve"

            Comment

            • mdill9
              350 Buick
              • Sep 21, 2004
              • 772

              #7
              Depending on how long you let the rig sit between
              firings, you migh want to hook your guage to
              a switched +12 source, or you could still use the yellow for your volt guage,
              just tie the red to the same post.(Make sure they have a good high amp connection between them) Then isolate
              the old underhood red wire, deleting it would be
              best, but tied up and tapped off should be OK also.

              Mike D.

              Comment

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