Calling out Holley tbi guru's need help please

[Michael]

Just and update. I figured out my 1/4 throttle problem, now I just need to finish up the loose ends and go tune her the rest of the way in.

All I know as soon as you crack the throttle you notice the diffrence. I have never heard my 360 sound this way. Hopefully it will be noticeable on the street.

Thanks for everyone that has helped. It is greatly appreciated.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Sorry for the AWOL here...been working like a dog and have not had the time to log on and check out much lately.

The system is EXTREMLY voltage sensitive... gotta have 12Vdc where 12Vdc is called for.

You Lean/Richen by adjusting the fuel pressure.

Start out around 12psi and check your plugs... some engines like 13psi and some likee 11psi... go figure???

Also, the TPS needs to be very linear through out it's range... it is just a potentiometer that needs to read smoothly... you can put a meter on it to see how smooth it goes from low resistance to high resistance.

The TPS needs a good 5Vdc also, not 4.85Vdc.

Use a relay to get power to the Fuel Pump...the transistor inside the ECU normally runs the Fuel pump... give it a break and use a relay instead.

[ January 06, 2006, 04:11 AM: Message edited by: Joe Guilbeau ]

[will e]

It occured to me that I can take the pink wire and put it on the starter side of the solinoid instead of solinoiod (large contact) so I am going to do that Saturday.

I will do the relay for the fuel pump once I get the system running.

Does the unit use the tach signal at all or is fuel delivery all driven by the TPS? Seems that it would adjust for RPM as well.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by The PIG Smith:
WOW!
I am gonna need a sandwich and something to drink before I can finish reading all that! <just kidding>

Thanks Joe for posting this info.
As the Tech Library is dated and somewhat limited and searching this forum is not the best as articles seem to expire,
I've cut and copied this info to a Word doc to save for when I perform my Holley Pro-Jection conversation.

Could you give some tips on what Holley Pro-Jection unit to buy and what to look for?
I've been lusting after a TBI setup as I struggle with carburetion issues consistently

If you must have the Holley then the Digital 2-injector is plenty as it "equates" to a 670cfm carb.

The closed loop system with the oxyden sensor is OK, but for my money and after running it for 10 years I might go with the GM system.

Those guys have spent lots of R&D monies and high priced engineers to design, and troubleshoot and refine a system.

Most any mechanic out there recognizes the GM system and parts are easily procurred.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by will e:
It occured to me that I can take the pink wire and put it on the starter side of the solinoid instead of solinoiod (large contact) so I am going to do that Saturday.

I will do the relay for the fuel pump once I get the system running.

Does the unit use the tach signal at all or is fuel delivery all driven by the TPS? Seems that it would adjust for RPM as well.

The tach signal is for safety requirements... after all you wouldn't want the injectors to keep pumping after the engine turned off... right?

Without that tach signal the injectors will fire up initially when the key is first engaged and then without the tach signal the injectors will stop firing because the ECU is thinking to itself... "Gee Williker's" the engine is not running so I don't want to start a fire... so I will stop grounding the injector's to fire them.

The system is a speed density type system, and the ONLY signal that the ECU gets (in open loop mode) is the voltage from the TPS as the throttle plate is opened/closed.

Once the Oxygen Closed Loop system is wired into the Analog system, the ECU uses the feedback from the Oxygen system to control the injector pulses until full open throttle is engaged.

Then the ECU cuts out the Oxygen sensor and relies solely on the TPS.

[Michael]

Joe, thanks again for all your help this made a good thread. Put the finishing touches on mine today.

wired in a relay for the fuel pumps, and rerouted the fuel lines etc. Man this thing runs good. Little touchy on the throttle in the rain with a locker...lol

[Joe Guilbeau]

Monitor your plugs and increase/decrease for rich/lean conditions.

This is the last of the adjustments that you need to make, don't go too lean.

This will help a lot with gas mileage.

[will e]

I hooked up the closed loop today. I started out by keeping open and setting the mid and idle. Not much to report yet except it working.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Oh...Now I'm jealous.

Have not gone to the Closed Loop system yet.

Come back with some feedback on drive quality and response, OK?

[Chevelleguy]

The closed loop kit works very well. I also have an A/F ratio meter under the dash. It dances back and forth just like any of the OEM closed loop units.

[ January 23, 2006, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: Chevelleguy ]

[will e]

From just a little driving....

The manual says the LED will blink when in Closed Loop. It blinks but it is not a 'steady' blink (like once every second or half second). It seems more like it is a 'constantly adjusting' blink (if that makes sense).

I get to get emissions tested in the next week or so. I will post the numbers. I plan on leaving the CL operative the first time through.

But overall the drivability is good. Idle quality is good. Since the engine is under 500 miles I have yet to 'punch it' but I will update you late ron that. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ January 23, 2006, 06:38 PM: Message edited by: will e ]

[Michael]

I have a af ratio meter I will install. I think I will just keep it open loop. Since mine is trail only I do not see the sense in spending the money.