1988 Grand Wagoneer. Does any one have vent windows that actually work correctly? Mine will not stay open above about 25 MPH the wind just blows them shut. Seems like a really poor design and is very frustrating since I don't have working A/C right now. I have owned other older trucks and classic cars where the vent windows worked great. I'm wondering if I'm missing a spring or something or just a bad design by Jeep maybe? Anyone have a good method of propping theirs to stay open? I can hold open with my left hand but that's really annoying and unsafe. It is the same on the passenger side.
Vent Windows Won't Stay Open
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It's something wrong with your Jeep, not a design problem. Like most (all?) vent windows there is a large spring on the bottom for the lower pivot to keep tension on them. It's possible whatever retains the spring (can't remember off the top of my head, I think it's a crimp?) came apart and they lost tension or fell off.Thomas Russell
1987 Cherokee Laredo 2-Door 4.0/AW4
1971 Gladiator J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18
1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T181968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
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the pins that go into the frame have rusted away, the pin should turn with the window not ride inside the hole....its a great deal of fun to repairAbort? Retry? Ignore? >
86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's
88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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Yep, I have 1 that stays open but doesn’t lock, and one that won’t stay open but does lock. Most likely something has gotten messed up in that spring mechanism. Bolt can fall off, spring break, pin rusted out. It’s a pretty big job just to get the window out of the door to be able to see what’s wrong and sometimes you would have to replace the whole vent window if it’s bad enough. I would take your door panel off and try sticking a cell phone camera up in n there and see if you can see it. It’s directly below the lower pivot of the vent window.Ben
1980 Wagoneer - Ram Jet 350, 700R4, NP208, 4" lift, 33x10.5 tires.
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I just assembled all that stuff in my build. The spring should be held on by a nut. Get a mirror or reach in and feel if it is there. Then using a socket and extensions, give it a turn or two. If it gets really tight then the spring is fully compressed and the coils are hitting each other. The nut is a swedged lock nut. So with the grease that gets put on at the factory, it may have released some.
It is probably OK to compress the spring coils till they touch each other, but I would not keep trying to tighten it from there. Most of my experience is with pre 71 wagoneers. If the design changed along the way ( I don't imagine it would have) then nevermind....Melford1972 says...
I’d say I feel sorry for you, but I really don’t, Mr. “I-stumble-into-X-models-the-way-most-people-stumble-into-Toyota-Carollas.” 🤣
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I make wag parts
1969 CJ-5 41 years owned
1969 1414X Wag in avocado mist
1970 1414X Wag in avocado mist
1968 M715 restomod
2001 Dodge 3500
2002 Toyota Tundra
2006 Toyota 4runner was Liz's, parked
Building a m715 over at the m715zone
Beloved wife Elizabeth Ann Temple Murdered by covid on Oct 19th 2021
Small violin, large amp
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It's a 30yr old truck...who knows what someone has done. Stuff can also wear out and break with decades of use.
Take off the door panels and check them out.
Feel for broken spring(s)
check to see if the pin is turning or has broken loose
check to see if bracket came loose from the bottom of the window assembly
Maybe you'll get lucky and you can tighten up the nuts a tad?
I'll have a good passenger side assembly soonish if you need one.Tony
88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8
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nice picture tony - sure explains how it works.....every one i found that exhibited the symptom had the pin rusted away from the window frame, what a pain to fix.....even the re-welding was tricky
steveAbort? Retry? Ignore? >
86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's
88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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Thanks for all the replies. Tony that photo was really helpful! I'll take off my door panel and check it out this weekend. Hopefully it's as simple as tightening up that nut (assuming it's even there . This truck has been in southern California it's whole life so there's not really any rust to be found anywhere, so I'm hoping that's not the case.1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
4" BDS Suspension Lift
Tru-Trac Rear
Howell GM TBI with Custom Tune
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Originally posted by Tripwirethe pins that go into the frame have rusted away, the pin should turn with the window not ride inside the hole....its a great deal of fun to repair1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
4" BDS Suspension Lift
Tru-Trac Rear
Howell GM TBI with Custom Tune
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Thought so....
YES its a big PITA, but you can make up for it by accomplishing several things whilst you are in there... its not going to be cheap or easy you may as well do all 4 doors as you will quickly get the hang of the task
First buy the new gaskets for the wings and the glass seals and Chanel seals,
2nd buy all new flex tracks from TGW or BJ's - not the local auto store, also get a coffee can 3/4 full of diesel - or gas if so inclined......( wait for it !)
if you have a set of 1/4 drive sockets you are good - you will also need a set of cheap torx screwdrivers for the window regulator parts, screwdriver set and allem wrench set as well as a rivit gun and SS rivits
get a spray can of lithium grease and electrical contact cleaner, a small wire brush is also good as well as a small tube of dielectric grease
1. remove the door pannels, - be careful with the window switches...
remove the window regulator assembelyyou have to power up/down the windoe till you can see the torx bolt in the access hole - remove the regulator - mark the screw positions with a sharpie
2. remove ALL the window Chanel guts - mark them with a sharpie
3. remove the door window seals - they sell a tool for this that looks like a pry bar - remove the main window
4. remove the door lock mechanism and toss it in the can of gas/diesel to soak.
remove the wing window bolts and the rivit holding to to the frame ( at the top) remove the wing window......go get the pins re-welded ( be sure they protect the glass)
spend some quality time degreasing the locking assy and white lube it to death....put it back in
put the windows back in whilst replacing all the wipes, channel felts ( good fun)
put the regulator back in with the new flex tracks after having cleaned and lubed everything
douch out the window switches while operating them with the electrical cleaner - i like to give them a final small shot of wd40 at the end...
remove the switches from the backplane ( careful not to split it open or break the retaining clips) clean the %^&% out the the switch pins and their female counterparts use dielectric grease to keep the water out - do this on the window motor contacts as well
reassemble and repeat for the rest of the doors......a nice full weekends work for sure
also check the drain holes and vac out the bottom of the door
Buy a microbrew sixpack and have some good swear words ready....
tell us how it went - or if you said &^*(^( it and bought a Kia LOL
SteveAbort? Retry? Ignore? >
86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's
88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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Don't worry, I will NEVER buy a Kia. I've owned this Jeep for four years and plan on keeping it many more. Thanks for the detailed write-up! It will probably be a few weeks or maybe more before I have time to get to it. I actually had all 4 doors mostly apart several years ago to clean and grease everything, but they're probably due for another service. My front power windows actually work quite well but couldn't hurt to refresh everything while I'm in there. My power locks have always had issues so I'll try the diesel soaking trick. And my rear windows have always had issues rolling more than half-way down so maybe I'll address that as well. I am able to weld so I can handle that part.
My driver's window has always been missing the latch assembly so I'm hoping to find a good one of those. They seem to always be included with the wing window but very hard to find by themselves. The PO put this hokey uninversal latch thing on that has always been pita.1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
4" BDS Suspension Lift
Tru-Trac Rear
Howell GM TBI with Custom Tune
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