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  #1  
Old 08-21-2018, 11:58 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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How would you prep this metal? Is there supposed to be a rubber plug here?

Getting my firewall prepped for paint. Last night I removed the wiper motor, column, and booster. Tonight I hope to remove the heater box and blower motor. My plan is to hit it with my electric dual action sander with some 150'ish grit to get it down to bare metal. I plan to paint from the body seam lined in red here, down to the floor pans, out to the door jams on either side.


My questions:
a) The green arrow on this picture shows a body hole. I assume this should have a rubber body plug in it, right? (same on the other side). I am not sure why they were be missing but they are.
b) Do you think I am OK just sanding this light surface rust off and hitting it with self etching primer, then base/clearing over it? I am not real worried about finish here since it's hidden behind the fender but I don't want it to rust, either.
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:41 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Isn't that the antenna wire hole on the passenger side? Should have a grommet and a plug on the driver side.

I'd use some metal etch before paint. I used to use Jasco but can't find it anymore. Been using Crud Cutter.

You're cleaning the firewall with a grease remover before sanding, right? No point in rubbing the grease in.

An area like this that doesn't show I'd scuff up the old paint unless it's peeling.
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:45 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
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If possible I'd take a sandblaster and clean it up if looks on the firewall are important. the cheapo ones at Harbor Freight work fine I've used one for years. fast and effective . if not your DA is the next best thing.


The rust doesn't look bad. sandblasting and painting would do a great job. some Ospho followed by paint will seal it up too.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:15 PM
FleetFox FleetFox is offline
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Join Date: Apr 04, 2018
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
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Agree with 440, If you can blast it, do; if not wire wheel, cup brush, knotted on a grinder if you gots.
Start with simple green or purple power to degrease too. Takes time but you'll be far less frustrated and much happier with the finished product.

I would then hand brush this stuff on. works well, not as good as POR15 with regards to self levelling, but much less expensive:

https://www.permatex.com/products/sp...ust-treatment/

It will leave brush marks to some extent, but I love it in hidden areas. You will need to prime it within 24-48 hours. Rust Reformer from rustoleum in spray bombs works and doesn't necessarily need a top coat. The side sections were black from the factory in many FSJs anyways.

Just my 2 cents. I have an 18 yr old amateur resto done this way and the rust did not come back. Others will weigh in.
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  #5  
Old 08-22-2018, 10:05 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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Paint doesn't look bad enough to completely take it down to bare metal. Some spots yeah but not entirely. Just insure the transitions are well feathered. The orig paint that's still good is likely stuck better than what you'll throw on will stick.
DO degrease "before" sanding. I would attack with a 4" sidewinder grinder and a wire brush wheel(wear goggles) then hand sand and feather areas as needed.
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2018, 12:42 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Thanks everyone! Great stuff in here.

It's not the antenna hole, not sure what it's for but I found some 3/4" body plugs for cheap so once it's painted, they'll get plugged.

I would love to sand blast it but I don't want to clean up the mess and I don't have the resources to take it somewhere and have someone else do it. I did the engine bay on my old Falcon; made a nice plastic "tent" in the garage to contain the mess yet I am still finding dust/media in places in my garage not to mention the dust it left inside the interior.


Rust is not bad at all. All light surface rust, no bubbling, no flaking.

FleetFox, You are the second person to recommend the permatex stuff so I'll probably pick some up.

After the engine was removed, I push the carcass out and pressure washed it with some Castrol super clean on it. Most of the grease and grime was removed but there is still a little. I will still plan to clean it off before addressing the paint.

The picture makes the paint look better than it is. Last night I removed the heater and blower boxes. The paint is coming off in flakes, almost like there was a fire inside the cabin and it burned it off. Weird.

Any who, my plan for this week:
A) Scrub the area down with some Castrol Super clean to make sure all the grime is gone
B) Hit the whole area, quickly, with my 4" knotted wire wheel to remove the flaky paint and heavy grime
D) DA Sander with 150'ish grit to remove most of the rest of the paint that has been compromised and the rust
C) Spray the whole firewall with the Permatex rust treatement, then let it cure for 24-48
D) Cover the whole firewall with a coat of sandable primer, sand, and base coat it Saxon Yellow.
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Last edited by rang-a-stang : 08-22-2018 at 02:18 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-22-2018, 01:55 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Asking a loaded question HA HA...you'll get a lot of differing opinions.

If it was mine, I'd degrease the wee outta it, and then powerwash w/ HOT water.
My water heater has a drain that the powerwasher connects right up to!
Then followed by a good scrub with scotchbrite pads.
Treat any bare spots, prime it, paint it.

I wouldn't take it all down to bare metal. Just my .02
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  #8  
Old 08-22-2018, 09:22 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
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Join Date: Jul 21, 2016
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Any of the suggestions will work. but if you're like me you want the firewall to look like it just left the factory . bare steel is the only way to get that look. blast it, prime it , shoot it and enjoy it. no regrets and no excuses ever needed.


I have regrets. but none of them involve doing something the right way.
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2018, 01:07 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
Location: California
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I'd look in your local yellow pages, Craig's List, or what have you to find someone who does sand blasting. It might be a PITA to get it there and back, and it might cost some dough, but the results are really good, and it's ready for paint.

Another option is chemical stripping -- When I lived in Maryland, Home Depot sold Aircraft Remover (or Aircraft Stripper, got CRS bad). Works like a champ. Slather it on thick-ish (not gloppy, but not like paint, either) then pat a garbage bag over it & let it sit overnight. The paint should scrape off with a stiff plastic putty knife.

Then hand-sand with 180 on a soft block till it's not shiny.

No matter what you do, wash it all down ASAP with some kind of phosphor pre-treat.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2018, 03:37 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Asking a loaded question HA HA...you'll get a lot of differing opinions.

If it was mine, I'd degrease the wee outta it, and then powerwash w/ HOT water.
My water heater has a drain that the powerwasher connects right up to!
Then followed by a good scrub with scotchbrite pads.
Treat any bare spots, prime it, paint it.

I wouldn't take it all down to bare metal. Just my .02
I'm pretty much in agreement with this. The firewall just looks dirty - Dawn and Scotchbrights (they wear out). Where there is surface rust, you either clean it and coat it (plenty for a Camarillo car IMO), or take it down to bright steel. Anything in-between like wire brushing doesn't add anything IMO. The places that look rusty I would clean and overpaint with Aluthane (my fave) or POR-15 or similar. I've also had good results from the Permatex rust treatment, which can also be over-painted.

You can get good results over a small area using a hand-held sand blaster: http://www.tptools.com/Hand-Held-Abrasive-Blasters.html Harbor Freight has them too. A 50# bag of fine coal slag is $7 at Tractor Supply - cheap enough that you can sweep it up and throw it away.

Probably was only e-coat there inside of the fender, from the factory. No top coat. It's taken 40 years to rust this much ...
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Last edited by tgreese : 09-02-2018 at 04:13 PM.
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2018, 11:27 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Roadkill Extra episode 543 (9/6/2018) is literally all about painting an engine compartment.

What looks dirty is A LOT of peeled paint (mostly on the passenger side around the heater box). The passenger side paint was burnt and frothy looking. There was no primer inside on the firewall under the paint. I am assuming when my truck was wrecked (before I owned it) the car/truck that hit it at the front passenger wheel well, spewed some brake fluid on it or something. A lot of of the paint came off in nickle and quarter sized chunks. I didn't go to bare shiney metal everywhere, just in the places where the paint was peeling off.


That handheld blaster is a great idea! I actually have one that I use to clean the intake valves on my Mazda. It didn't even dawn on me to crack it out for this. Your suggestion was about 2 days late.

I primer'ed last night but I don't have any pics. I am happy with it so far. I hope to base coat it Saturday morning and clear shortly thereafter.
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2018, 12:28 PM
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Probesport Probesport is offline
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For tasks like that I like to use an angle die grinder and roloc discs. That will make quick work of the paint left and help you get into much smaller areas without digging into the metal.
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