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  #21  
Old 12-01-2018, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunbeam Fanatic
Count me in for one

Cool! Thanks!
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2018, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mass
It's happening!

Got some parts in. I love the quality.. I mean look at the knurling where the wire goes. ...and they crimp like butter









Are those the ones from that eastern beaver place? The pictures on the site do not quite look the same as what you posted. If not, where did you get them?
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93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2018, 06:09 PM
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Those are sourced from waytekwire. The female I posted above is a Delphi Metri pack 630 series. The one's on eastern beaver look a lot like these I got from ebay.
I'm not really digging the super thin folded over metal construction. I know they will work but if I can spend a little more for a quality one I'll do it. I'm going to give the Packard 59 connectors and terminals a shot from texas industrial electric. The third picture is of their product. Notice the thickness in the blade is one solid piece. It's not folded over to simulate a thicker terminal like my $0.05 ebay terminals. Also the tab on the ebay ones that holds it in the connector is not springy at all. I don't want it working it's way out over time. Maybe I'm splitting hairs but like I said earlier in the thread, I'm OCD about this stuff. Even though mine will be hard wired from the factory wiring, I still want the quality to be there for anyone who buys my harness and doesn't want to chop wires.


.


.

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  #24  
Old 12-10-2018, 04:39 PM
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Got some more parts in. I decided to go a different way for circuit protection. These Delphi connectors make a good water proof fuse holder. Since its a 6 place connector I'll have room for a spare fuse or room to expand for the fog lights.

Also the water proof relays looks nice



Quality terminals




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  #25  
Old 12-19-2018, 07:47 PM
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It seems I'll have to use the male connectors I have. The second ones I ordered wouldn't fit without without hacking away some plastic on connector itself.

I got the last few things I was waiting on in the mail today so I'll see if I can't find time to start building it tomorrow.

These are the all important Packard 59 terminals that will attach directly to the bulb terminals. They come on a reel. How strange is that?


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  #26  
Old 12-20-2018, 09:04 PM
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I had a little time today so I made some progress. It's setup on isolated 30 amp circuits with a spare fuse in the water proof holder. I should have enough time tomorrow to finish up but here's some pics. Do you think I should offer an alternative for the male 3 prong plug (plug and play) and option out 3 butt connectors to hard wire to the factory side? Personally I hard wire.





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  #27  
Old 12-21-2018, 06:45 AM
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I’d be interested in one as well.
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1980 Cherokee WT

360, 727, 219, 35s
Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...
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  #28  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:07 PM
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Thanks skyline!

Looks like I had another setback today. My fault. I can't believe I didn't notice it but the 59 series terminals I got are for 14 gauge.
Seems as though I'm a dummy and ordered based on "max cable size" of 2mm which is what 12 gauge is. However that number is in reference to the total diameter WITH insulation.
I only just noticed the data sheet also mentions "max core cable" size which is the actual conductor size. My bad.

I'll have to order the right ones after Christmas on Wednesday and to make it worse it looks like a 13 week factory lead time unless I want to order a reel with $750 worth. Yikes!
Aside from the 6 terminals that go into the ceramic connector I've got it all finished. I went ahead and put it together for the heck of it to see how it looks.

What do you guys think?

1. If you want easy accessibility to the fuses you can zip tie the fuse box in the engine bay like I have here or hide it behind the lights with the relays. I made it long enough to do either so its your choice.



2. The positive leads are long enough to make it to the alternator or battery.. whichever floats your boat.



3. Ground is directly to the battery. Or if you want to be weird, rebellious, or "different" you can TEK screw it into the nearest sheet metal.




















Heap of wires huh?
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:06 PM
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It's now posted in the vendor section. I wasn't able to get the best headlight terminals I wanted but I'm still very happy with it. I sold one last week to a guy on fsjn and he is very happy with it.
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:27 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
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I bought one - WOW !!!! as good as it gets for your rig A+

a work of art, well made, sealed connections - the type of quality the most finicky /prissy OCD person would be happy with

tripwire
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88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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  #31  
Old 01-14-2019, 01:29 AM
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$10-15 on eBay, had one on our waggy for a year now.
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  #32  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gophman
$10-15 on eBay, had one on our waggy for a year now.

You get what you pay for.


aa
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  #33  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:55 PM
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Yup, a working full harness.
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  #34  
Old 01-14-2019, 03:01 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gophman
Yup, a working full harness.

Yup, if you're fine with cheap parts, the ebay harness is perfect. Some people want better parts. Never going to get more than the absolutely cheapest parts available for $10-15. Just isn't going to happen.

If you don't have an issue with possibly (probably) replacing relays and connectors, hit up ebay.

aa
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  #35  
Old 01-14-2019, 08:27 PM
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yup,
Always going to be those diehard harbor freight buying, coupon toting, bald tire jalopy driving, toilet paper rationing, water ordering, lunch packing, bargain buyers out there.

Guilty!
I usually go cheap till I see a need to go "better".
This harness was the result of needing to go better.

I bought a cheap eBay harness and after having issues with the expected quality I took a minute to think about it... Do I want to chance it on such an important safety item?

The answer for me was no. I swear I stood there with the cheap harness in my hand I heard in my head "The Darwin is strong with this one".
I actually feel really stupid for buying it in the first place especially since I've had my headlights go out before on the highway.

Imagine driving 70 on a pitch black rural highway going into a slight turn or cresting a hill and your headlights go off. Poof! No low beams, no high beams. Lights out.
you'll experience a diamond-making pucker effect. Or worse. I was lucky AF to have moonlight.


This all boils down to the individual.
Quality or price. We all tend to lean towards one or the other

No judgment.
You know who you are.
I am here if you want a quality harness.


P.s. Thanks tripwire! Glad you like it!
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  #36  
Old 01-14-2019, 11:52 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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I'm cheap, but not dangerously cheap-lol

Ya know, I've been wanting to build one of these kits myself for a year, but whenever I go to look for/at the parts... I'm just blown away with all the choices and don't know what to go with. I also have no clue where to find headlight sockets, or the adapter that you attach to one of the old sockets (to use as the trigger). So, I never get to it. May just have to get a kit from you Mass. It looks good. I do wonder though- how much does the whole thing cost YOU before building? Just curious. I know you need to (and I believe you should) get something for all the time you spend on these, but I'm just curious.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer-"The Crapwagon"
AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 3.31gears, 2" lift
Rancho 44044, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI
...still kinda rusty

The other's
1926 Dodge Brothers 5 pass. Business Sedan 212-I4, 3 speed, CRANK START (new long term project)
1987 Lincoln Town Car "Signature Series" 5.0, AOD unknown gears
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9,A999TF,3.90gears(DD)
1994 GMC 'Burban L05-5.7,4L60E,3.73gears(DD)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0,AW4,3.73gears(thinkin of selling)
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  #37  
Old 01-15-2019, 12:14 PM
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Thanks Zack
In parts I'm in it right at $56. Then add $10.65 for the flat rate shipping I'm at $66.65. Then add the 2 hours to make it.
Not making a killing lol
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  #38  
Old 01-15-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cecil14
Yup, if you're fine with cheap parts, the ebay harness is perfect. Some people want better parts. Never going to get more than the absolutely cheapest parts available for $10-15. Just isn't going to happen.

If you don't have an issue with possibly (probably) replacing relays and connectors, hit up ebay.

aa
Good deal if you ask me, ceramic headlamp connectors all wiring is at least double minimum requirements for the amps good soldered and crimped connections... Cheap relays but well worth the money, in fact I've bought a few as I can't buy the components for anyway near what these cost.
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  #39  
Old 01-15-2019, 02:45 PM
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You're right. It is a good deal if you stick with the stock 35w/65w sealed beams and you're fine with cheap everything including questionable relays. Free country have at it.

But it's kinda like a Mitsubishi driver going to a Lexus dealer and telling everyone what a great deal the 2018 $11,000 78hp Mirage is.
Different strokes for different folks.

Hey you know what else is a good deal? ...a house in Detroit.
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  #40  
Old 01-17-2019, 01:42 AM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mass
Thanks Zack
In parts I'm in it right at $56. Then add $10.65 for the flat rate shipping I'm at $66.65. Then add the 2 hours to make it.
Not making a killing lol
Hey, that's not too bad. Equals to $16.67 and hour. More than the $15 an hour I charge for manual labor hmm, should up my rates...

Well, I'm interested-even though I'm still running the stock headlights. No current plans to change that part. What I want to change are the so called fog lights. Want to make them driving lights and add some real fogs under the bumper, maybe built into the spoiler.
Side note: There must be a reduction in voltage, as my GW isn't as bright as my XJ, and that has the same exact same lights in it! So there's room for improvement... Gotta wait though until I get some extra funding.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer-"The Crapwagon"
AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 3.31gears, 2" lift
Rancho 44044, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI
...still kinda rusty

The other's
1926 Dodge Brothers 5 pass. Business Sedan 212-I4, 3 speed, CRANK START (new long term project)
1987 Lincoln Town Car "Signature Series" 5.0, AOD unknown gears
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9,A999TF,3.90gears(DD)
1994 GMC 'Burban L05-5.7,4L60E,3.73gears(DD)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0,AW4,3.73gears(thinkin of selling)

Last edited by ZackN920 : 01-17-2019 at 01:48 AM.
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