Fuel sending unit calibration and install frustrating

[KdkGrizz]

So my fuel gauge has never been what you call “Accurate”. Anyhow had to drop the tank to install rock sliders. I figured while I had it out I would replace the sending unit. Well it’s all calibrated on the bench 73 and 10 ohms. I get it installed in the tank and hmm 68.5 ohms. I figure I probably bent one of the tabs A little. No biggie I can adjust that. I reached in with a hook and raised the float to the full up position and it reads 10 ohms.. sweet...but I also hear the float hitting the top of the tank..ugh... I let the float down and hear the telltale sound of the float hitting the bottom of the tank....insert expletives here. Next test waste take the old unit I removed and perform same test and yep same result.

Ok so obviously an empty reading is much more important than full and this explains why when I have filled the tank in the past it was always just a little less than 3/4 on the gauge..

Oh by the way I have a Dakota digital dash that has a preprogrammed setting for 73-10ohms , I wonder if this is messing with that..��

Anyone got a suggestion for this or experienced the same thing?? ��

[babywag]

since your guage is programable? maybe change settings?

or can shorten arm a little by putting an "S" shaped bend in it.

[KdkGrizz]

since your guage is programable? maybe change settings?

or can shorten arm a little by putting an "S" shaped bend in it.

Yep there is a manual process for calibrating it. 0-1/3-2/3-full.
Hmm “S” shape I like it. Since the float, floats on top of the fuel should I account for that ?

[jeepman42]

Details on window & lift R&R

Many prev opinions on this in past years. Hopefully this will add a few helpful details.?
1 Electric window removal seems to be easier if lift parts are removed from door.
2 A manual helps except for those smarter than I.
3 When window loose move it by hand to top & tape in up position
4 With tape drive, disconnect power, remove top& bottom bolts, remove 4 bolts on motor unit,separate from bracket & remove motor. then bracket w drive tape can be removed. With motor attached I've only been frustrated. This also allows regreasing .Gear can be lifted out & tape removed if it needs replacement.
5 Then remove lower half of wipe in lower channel, remove division bracket bolts top& bottom, lower window by hand as far down as it will go.
6 By hand ,inside door, move division bar away from window edge until clear &move window toward out side of door.

[KdkGrizz]

Many prev opinions on this in past years. Hopefully this will add a few helpful details.?
1 Electric window removal seems to be easier if lift parts are removed from door.
2 A manual helps except for those smarter than I.
3 When window loose move it by hand to top & tape in up position
4 With tape drive, disconnect power, remove top& bottom bolts, remove 4 bolts on motor unit,separate from bracket & remove motor. then bracket w drive tape can be removed. With motor attached I've only been frustrated. This also allows regreasing .Gear can be lifted out & tape removed if it needs replacement.
5 Then remove lower half of wipe in lower channel, remove division bracket bolts top& bottom, lower window by hand as far down as it will go.
6 By hand ,inside door, move division bar away from window edge until clear &move window toward out side of door.

Thanks for the info. My windows are manual. But great info

[KdkGrizz]

since your guage is programable? maybe change settings?

or can shorten arm a little by putting an "S" shaped bend in it.

“S” in the wire worked to perfection