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  #1  
Old 02-10-2019, 09:08 PM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Anybody use Rivnuts/Rivet Nuts/Nutserts? Advice?

I am looking to mount my Fuel pump relay and fuse on my firewall in the upper right hand corner. I don't think I can get behind there to hold a nut so I am thinking a Rivnut would work well for me but I have never used them.

Like these (not necessarily this kit but ones like this):
https://www.amazon.com/Keadic-100Pcs...nutserts&psc=1

I have a hand riveter but its pretty weak so I don't think it would work for me. The way I understand they work, I don't see why I couldn't use a long bolt and a spacer to set the rivnut but I don't see anyone online doing that.
Kind of a home made version of this tool:
https://www.stairwarehouse.com/rivet-nut-setter.html

Anyone have any advice? Anyone use these before? Bad idea to use them?
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:11 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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They work fine. You can use a bolt/nut to expand/install them.
Used them many many time to repair things like mirror mounts and fender apron mount holes on wrecks when I was an autobody tech.

Plain ole self-tapping small hex bolts work fine too.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:26 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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I got a cheapo kit at HF. Works fine for cable and hose clamps type of stuff. I had to move the bulkhead connector in the firewall and it was great for that.

Comes with assorted aluminum inserts. Idunno if it would be strong enough to set steel inserts.
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:28 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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For hanging light weight stuff like relays those steel ones will work fine.
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:48 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Thanks, folks. I see the Harbor Freight one (comes with some inserts). I'll probably grab that on my way home from work.
https://www.harborfreight.com/45-pie...-kit-1210.html
CHeap tool but comes with some inserts. Since they are holding very lightweight, they should work fine.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:07 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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If you use aluminum inserts be sure to seal the bare steel before install.
With our close-ish proximity to ocean air they'll start to corrode after a while if you don't
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:50 AM
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letank letank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
If you use aluminum inserts be sure to seal the bare steel before install.
With our close-ish proximity to ocean air they'll start to corrode after a while if you don't




Sorry for the hack, what do you recommend as a sealer?

Most of the rust damage starts from our rivetted wood trim pieces. I am dewooding the new project and most of the steel rivets have created rusty spots, the newer fender (did not check the year) that I installed had aluminum rivets and no rust.
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:54 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Don't over drill the hole, after drilling use some touch up paint for the area and I use some red lock-tite on the outside of the nut to help hold it in. I then use anti-seize on the bolt going in.
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2019, 02:38 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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I used the smallest hole I could wiggle the insert into. Touched up the holes with "cold galvanizing" paint that I happened to have on hand and put some on the insert and set it while it was wet.

Would've just used primer if that were all I had.
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2019, 09:07 PM
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Crankyolman Crankyolman is offline
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I work on aircraft for a living where rivnuts are common and I absolutely hate those damn things. More than half the time when you go to take a bolt out the damn rivnut spins and it's a huge pain to get out. I'd use a sheetmetal screw long before a rivnut or better yet a nutplate but that does require access to the back side.
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Last edited by Crankyolman : 02-12-2019 at 07:46 AM.
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:19 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crankyolman
I work on aircraft for a living where rivnuts are common and I absolutely hate those damn things. More than half the time when you go to take a bolt out the damn rivnut spins and it's a huge pain to get out. I'd use a sheetmetal screw long before a rivnut or better yet a nutplate but that does require access to the back side.




But a nutplate is held in with rivets. Lol.



I use aluminum rivnuts for smaller stuff (1/4" or less) and steel for larger stuff. On the larger ones, I use pre-bulbed rivnuts. Those have been "pre squished" to help you start the compression process which makes it easier to install. And it has a large foot print on the back to grip better than a standard nut.



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  #12  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:16 AM
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letank letank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
I used the smallest hole I could wiggle the insert into. Touched up the holes with "cold galvanizing" paint that I happened to have on hand and put some on the insert and set it while it was wet.

Would've just used primer if that were all I had.




Thank you, with all the rain that is coming, I need to limit rust progression.
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:48 PM
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Probesport Probesport is offline
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I use them all the time, I have an Astro kit off of amazon that works well.

However, if you don't plan on needing thing them a lot, you can always use a rubber well nut which will also give you a little isolation
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2019, 10:47 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Rivnut is a registered trade name for a product known as a "blind rivet nut". Like Bondo (also a registered trade name) Rivnuts sometimes have a bad reputation from improper use. Blind rivet nuts are designed to be placed in structure of a certain thickness range. If not within this range they will not hold well. Many, like Rivnuts are intended to be placed in hexogonal or square holes, this is often not done.

Rivet nuts are in most applications superior to tapping screws. They offer a much larger load bearing surface than a screw thread. If sized correctly they can hold a considerable load.

I like the square style rivet nuts. It is a simple matter to drill the appropriate size hole and touch up the corners with a square file.
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Last edited by threepiece : 02-14-2019 at 10:55 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2019, 11:21 AM
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Probesport Probesport is offline
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There are some really good round hole threaded inserts (rivnut) that work well and have a decent grip range. The ones I use are round hole and work from sheetmetal to plate. If you go round hole application, make sure they are splined and the hole should be as close to the diameter of the smooth portion as possible, tap in the rest so the spline engages prior to compressing and don't overcompress or you'll trash the threaded barrel.
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: Heated Seats : Blower fix : Driving light brackets : Shorty headers : Coil Packs : Electric Fans
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2019, 12:40 AM
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fsjcowboy fsjcowboy is offline
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I agree. Rivnuts were always difficult to install so that they didn't spin and a PITA a lot of the time when removing fasteners from them. I rank it up there with Lockheed Tri-wing screws and "coin-slot" high torque screws.
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2019, 11:26 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Last weekend I bought the Harbor freight set and used it to set 5 rivnuts. I drilled the hole so I have to tap the rivnut in with a hammer. Then I put a super light coat of brushable body sealer (becuase I had it lying around) around the body before tapping it home. I was able to get all 5 to set well and am happy with the results. Thanks for all the advice, gentlemen.
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