Has anyone heard of or have this system? http://fitechefi.com/ I'm looking to switch from to fi. Just checking my options.
FiTech?
Collapse
X
-
I did the 600hp model cause I wanted the timing control. I'm pretty sure I've figured out how to use the motorcraft distance quite easily and cheaply for the timing control. Figured if I'm going that far to add fi I want it to control everything.
Got mine for $1198 with free shipping from pace performance. That was with the external fuel pump kit. But they are out till March 7th
Comment
-
-
Just FYI, Holley's "Sniper" kit looks like it's designed and priced specifically to compete with Fitech's kit. It's supposed to drop later this year. Might want to look at both before jumping on this Fitech wave. Dunno, Fitech may be a better kit, but I can easily envision the posts where people buy Fitech and wish they had waited.
Comment
-
-
I'm anxious to see how these work out. I can't get my head around the timing controls without locking down the distributor* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by TexasJ10I'm anxious to see how these work out. I can't get my head around the timing controls without locking down the distributor
Looks like the next level up from the base 600hp setup (600hp with boost/power adder support) has more timing control points - instead of 3x3,it's 10x12. Still think I might go with the 400hp unit without timing control and fuel center as I could quickly throw the carb back on if anything in the fi setup fails.Last edited by bobzdar; 02-13-2016, 12:51 PM.
Comment
-
-
I hope I don't jinx myself, but I've been basically daily driving mine and it's great. I did the 400 system and the command center and have had zero issues. Everything about it is better than a carb. I used to have real bad hot starts and now it's like a modern vehicle. I also have msd ignition and a cs130 and I think it really helps.1984 j10 LWB - for sale
1977 Cherokee chief wide track(sold)
2004 LJ - sold
2021 Jeep Gladiator Willys
Comment
-
-
Your FCC will overheat the fuel pump when it idles for any period of time.
Idle it for about 5 minutes and go out and feel it.87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ShagWagonYour FCC will overheat the fuel pump when it idles for any period of time.
Idle it for about 5 minutes and go out and feel it.
Mines been in now for at least 6 months and haven't had any problems. Where did you mount your command center? I cut a hole in the inner fender where the over flow container is so it gets a lot of moving air from the fan on it, it's never felt warm and it's been driven a lot and idled a lot.1984 j10 LWB - for sale
1977 Cherokee chief wide track(sold)
2004 LJ - sold
2021 Jeep Gladiator Willys
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by skeletorMines been in now for at least 6 months and haven't had any problems. Where did you mount your command center? I cut a hole in the inner fender where the over flow container is so it gets a lot of moving air from the fan on it, it's never felt warm and it's been driven a lot and idled a lot.
First thing I noticed was the low pressure gauge not working right. Went the rounds with that, replaced gauge, tore apart FCC, moved location, called fitech support, etc.....
Then I went wheelin. Climbed a hill slowly and idled at the top to take pics and it died till I cooled it off with some ice and got some fast moving air on it then no probs.
Had the wife and kids with me and had them worried to death we were stranded but I knew exactly what it was.
It just doesn't move enough fuel through the can to keep it cool enough at idle basically. The pump deadheads against thenTb, and overheats inside the can.
I wrote up some posts earlier in the year about and I can't recall all the extensive details but since I switched it out for an intank I haven't had a single issue.
Fitech knows this and they've since updated to some different FCCs and delivery systems because the FCC sux while never admitting this problem. I had zero argument about getting a refund for the POS which is good for them and I'll give em credit for that.
And for their FI system other than that is great....87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs
Comment
-
-
How long did you have it where the coolant bottle goes? And why did you move it? I did read where people had issues with it, but I figured it was because it was mounted by an exhaust manifold.
my jeep never gets above 205 degrees, so it's a cool running motor, also I have a vented gas cap and no emission stuff in the engine bay and new fuel lines and new mechanical pump. I haven't been babying it either, since June I've driven it more than I have probably than the previous 6 years.
Before I got the Fitech I basically couldn't drive it during the summer because I got such bad heat soak with the carb. At this point I'm definitely happy with it.1984 j10 LWB - for sale
1977 Cherokee chief wide track(sold)
2004 LJ - sold
2021 Jeep Gladiator Willys
Comment
-
Comment