cummins in a cherokee

[budojeepr]

Hijack alert, sorry fellas...

Why is it that if you mention putting a diesel in a Jeep (or in this case, a Jeep on a diesel) people jump in and recommend frame boxing, etc., but if you mention hot-rodding a 401 to put out comparable torque (and much more horsepower) everybody just gives you the "rock on" emoticon?

Just askin'.

[imiceman44]

Sweet conversion...But, I'm just curious. Have you taken that heavy front end off road into some serious mud?
Being the owner of a Dodge CTD 4x4, I know that the engine weighs in excess of 1200 Lbs.
In fact, while off road just goofing off, I got stuck going thru a mud hole...Ok, a big mud hole. Granted, my axles are stock and open. But, it wasn't deep enough to get stuck. My old J10 wouldn't have gotten stuck. Yet, my CTD sank deep in the mud up front.
Guys, unless you have an ARB locker in the front D60 and at least a LSD in the rear, that 5.9 6BT is not a good conversion for off road use.
Been there, done that.
It is a great conversion for a FSJ that tows heavy loads. Just don't take it off road and expect it to glide thru those mud puddles...It's just too heavy.

I bought a K5 blazer that had a 5.9 TD put in it, it still had stock 1/2 ton axles but a few added leaves on the springs to support the weight, I put lockers on it and some 35"x12.5" tires and wheeld it for years until the frame broke a few places, the weight in the front was actually great for the uphill climbing, I took some hill that where 40 degrees, no one could climb as high as I did except the purpose built buggies with long wheel base and really low body for that type of terrain, and they only did it with speed, I crawled it.
The one thing I couldn't do well was the snow, I still did fine but when I hit powder, no matter what I did I couldn't get enough floatation, I had to just keep the momentum going and hope I don't get stuck.
The frame however didn't like the vibration and the torque, so it had cracks all over the first 5 feet of the front.
Now I have a crew cab frame I am working on shortening to put my engine in and maybe make a stretched blazer.
Or if I don't sell my waggy use that on the frame.

[gotmike]

i figured i'd copy this in from another post... just to keep it all in one thread









i still have to fabricate some battery holders before it hits the trail... and mounting the battery disconnects should be easy to wire in with the eyelets on my battery cables...

there is one main cable running to the starter from the main battery (LH battery)... and then connected to the starter lug i ran another line off to power things up front and tie into the alternator charge line, and then i ran one line from the main positive terminal to the auxilary positive battery terminal, and a line from there to the other side of the front with much smaller wire (8 gauge) to power my fan and my OBA compressor clutch... that way it will draw charge through both batteries and keep both charged... when i get my disconnects i will take the main cable to the first disconnect and a jumper from there to the second disconnect... and then from the second contact on each to each independant battery...

each battery has its own ground bolted to the floor, and then from the under side of the floor to the frame... good grounding is always important...

[gotmike]

i'll be building covers into the battery trays that will cover them on the in-cab side... with metal instead of cardboard panels, but leave the in fender side open via a vent hole... so if they do vent they'll vent into the fender and out one of the many holes there bear in mind, cars such as jaguars and other luxury cars keep the battery under the back seat... beside that i don't have a rear window... just a canvas/plastic snap on flap

the cover will also protect them from something loose in the rear touching terminals and shorting anything out... since i keep tools and recovery devices back there...

i'm also open to other suggestions... two sets of eyes on something are better than one...

[gotmike]

this is kindof the idea i have for my battery trays

the side rails on the top won't actually touch the battery... don't want them to accidentally touch the terminals... the front will have a catch on it that tightens the whole thing down... and then probably a piece of intertube rubber across the top to insulate things... the whole top and front will be one piece that will pivot up to get the battery out if i need...the back rails will extend up to just under the window to make everything really secure... i'll be putting quick connect points front and rear for a winch and/or jumper cables... it's going to be more of a recovery vehicle than anything else... i have a lot of friends who do some serious wheeling... and they usually get stuck...

[loganvilledude]

Well Mike I have to admit after searching through these threads for a diesel conversion you're s seems like the one I would like to tackle. Good job.

What does the wheel base measure out at on the '90's" model standard cab 4x4 Dodge truck?

Thanks,

Mike

[gotmike]

the wheel base on mine (single cab long box) was still 20 some inches too long... but there is a nice straight section just behind the cab where you can shorten the frame without too many problems... it is right between two cross-members... it pretty much sticks the cross members right up against each other... helps minimize the lateral flex on the frame so it isn't as weak as it could be if you cut it elsewhere... there are several ways to cut the frame... i cut mine at a diagonal... easiest way to get it to match up after the cut... but you have to fish-plate the welded area... so far i've beat it up pretty good and haven't gotten any cracks at all... one thing i did to help out too was to make some step/rock sliders that bolt onto the frame and help with supporting the length of the frame under the passenger area... plus mine's a little tall so the bars help to get in the thing...

[gotmike]

got me a PTO winch to mount up front now... i found an old Koenig winch from the front of a bronco that will fit perfectly in between the frame rails on my front end... and its set up for the shaft to be on the passenger side and everything... i figured i can't beat it for $100 bucks... i think it's missing the little brake piece... but i'm thinking that i can figure out a better way to set up a brake on it anyway...

[MAPit]

what are the down sides to going diesel? besides cost and wight?

[gotmike]

had a guy asking about this build again... so i'm bringing it to the top...


as for the down side??? none... starts as well in the cold (with the cummins) easier to maintain/repair... easier to wire/diagnose wiring issues... better fuel economy... i'd much rather have a diesel in my rig than a gasser any day... if i had the time and money i'd upgrade my wife's jimmy to a 4bt... but they're getting pricey...

[gotmike]

throwing up some new pic's got some new lights and a pretty nice roof rack...

before...


after...

[Elliott]

Owe, my eyes, my eyes....

[gotmike]

yeah that's the only spot i could stand without overlighting my little camera...and i've got a 250 watt aircraft landing light that fit's in a 6" housing to mount as a spotlight just below the windshield on the drivers side...

[jaber]

I like that rack. The whole thing is awesome...

[gotmike]

i added in some more details about the swap itself back in the first pages... fyi...