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  #21  
Old 09-21-2006, 09:56 AM
Nick@lockitup's Avatar
Nick@lockitup Nick@lockitup is offline
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Join Date: Apr 16, 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick@lockitup
autozone carries all the parts.
SBK1 for the inner spindle kit.
set 45 for the outer bearing set
471271 -inner seal
lm104949-inner bearing
jlm104910-inner race

Thats for any big bearing d44 waggy/chevy

all these are timken part #s btw
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  #22  
Old 09-23-2006, 12:04 AM
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HorribleHarry HorribleHarry is offline
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So let me get this straight (since my truck is broken & 50 miles away...)
is there a seal on the outer side of the front hub? is this part of the chrome cap? my waggy was spraying bearing grease all over the place onto the outside of the wheels & tires... never got around to popping them off & taking a look.
Thanks,
Harry
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  #23  
Old 09-23-2006, 06:22 AM
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Crazy_Jeepman Crazy_Jeepman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HorribleHarry
So let me get this straight (since my truck is broken & 50 miles away...)
is there a seal on the outer side of the front hub? is this part of the chrome cap? my waggy was spraying bearing grease all over the place onto the outside of the wheels & tires... never got around to popping them off & taking a look.
Thanks,
Harry

No there is no seal in or behind the Chrome cap. If you have grease spraying out of it, then I would be concerned that a wheel bearing is failing and heating up the grease enough to turn it to liquid and that is how it is managing to get passed the cap, or the cap is a poor fit and is allowing the grease to get out. Although there really should not be nothing more than a light coating of grease behind the cap and in the drive flange area, the grease should be moderately heavy within the area wheel bearing cavity only.
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  #24  
Old 09-23-2006, 10:20 AM
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HorribleHarry HorribleHarry is offline
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Thank you Crazy_Jeepman,
My caps are beat, but I seem to remember the hubs being pretty warm.
I will rebuild them when I put my manual hubs on.

Harry
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86 GW, 360-V8, NP229, Tow Package(3.73's), D44/AMC23, aux. 25 gal. fuel tank, 2.5" lift, 31"BFG AT's, dual Flowmaster exhaust w twin cats, factory brush guard, PIGNOSE transplant!, rust, shiny chrome valve covers! ...and no more woodgrain!
89 Range Rover classic hunter (with factory standard leaky head gaskets!!!)
87 Vanagon SYNCRO 4X4
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  #25  
Old 12-13-2006, 09:13 AM
mxg342 mxg342 is offline
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Location: Harmony, PA 16037
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Please forgive me for my ignorance but are any of these part numbers for the inner axle seal? I've been starting my search for new ones but measurements and specifications are not matching up. The old seals were 2.5" to the best of my measuring ability. I can only find 2.25 and 2.625 seals on advance auto parts website. Can anyone help me out here?
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  #26  
Old 12-13-2006, 01:13 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxg342
Please forgive me for my ignorance but are any of these part numbers for the inner axle seal? I've been starting my search for new ones but measurements and specifications are not matching up. The old seals were 2.5" to the best of my measuring ability. I can only find 2.25 and 2.625 seals on advance auto parts website. Can anyone help me out here?


yeah inner seals are listed there. 2.625 is alot closer to 2.5 than 2.25 is. (talking about 125 hundreth of an inch difference vs 250 hundreths).

post up what you have for a rig, in your sig, this helps people give you exact answers more often than not.

taking your old seal in and bribing the parts monkey with candy helps Occasionally you get a helpful one that will match parts for you.
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  #27  
Old 12-14-2006, 06:18 AM
mxg342 mxg342 is offline
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Thanks for the info. I'm working on a D44 front from a 79 waggy. It is going in my CJ. I'm planning the 5 on 5.5 conversion with Ford stuff, ARB, 4.56 gearing, and high steer. I'll probably switch to hydro assist steering next year. $$$ is to tight right now for it.

The bad thing is we have put the project on the back burner due to my roomates jeep getting totaled. We are rebuilding a 91 chevy truck as fast as we can now to get him back in a vehicle.
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  #28  
Old 12-14-2006, 09:38 AM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxg342
Thanks for the info. I'm working on a D44 front from a 79 waggy. It is going in my CJ. I'm planning the 5 on 5.5 conversion with Ford stuff, ARB, 4.56 gearing, and high steer. I'll probably switch to hydro assist steering next year. $$$ is to tight right now for it.

The bad thing is we have put the project on the back burner due to my roomates jeep getting totaled. We are rebuilding a 91 chevy truck as fast as we can now to get him back in a vehicle.

wow, that looks so bad, the dog wouldn't even pee on it!

bad hit, sure it was a bummer.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #29  
Old 12-29-2006, 03:35 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick@lockitup
autozone carries all the parts.
SBK1 for the inner spindle kit.
set 45 for the outer bearing set
471271 -inner seal
lm104949-inner bearing
jlm104910-inner race

Thats for any big bearing d44 waggy/chevy

ok..dumb question... I need to buy TWO of each to do the whole diff, right?

Napa: BRGBK1 : 15.99
Azone: SET45 15.99
Azone: 471271 4.99
Azone: lm104949 16.99
Azone: jlm104910 4.99

all that x2 = 117.90 before tax sound right?
__________________
1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .


Last edited by Gambler68 : 12-29-2006 at 03:40 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:11 AM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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okay got that one answered

I guess a pair of Brute Force joints wouldnt hurt either, thats prolly another 50 bux.
__________________
1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #31  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:15 AM
Crazy_Jeepman's Avatar
Crazy_Jeepman Crazy_Jeepman is offline
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Yup 2 of everything................Brute Force? who makes them? I generally just get a Spicer Joint.
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:19 AM
fulsizjeep's Avatar
fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Join Date: Aug 21, 2002
Location: Jubilee Jeeps.SWCO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Jeepman
I generally just get a Spicer Joint.

Me too. Not much chance you will mess one up unless you lock the front axel.
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76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
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  #33  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:26 AM
Gambler68's Avatar
Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Jeepman
Yup 2 of everything................Brute Force? who makes them? I generally just get a Spicer Joint.

its a Azone sealed bearing lifetime warranty..prolly 10 bux more than the spicer.
__________________
1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #34  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:44 AM
Crazy_Jeepman's Avatar
Crazy_Jeepman Crazy_Jeepman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
its a Azone sealed bearing lifetime warranty..prolly 10 bux more than the spicer.

Yea I just checked them out its actually a Neapco brand, same as what is available at Advance auto. I have stayed away from them........I feel Spicer is the premium OEM replacement.
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  #35  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:48 AM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Krista has a set of those Brute Force joints on Phoebe's front axel for over 3 years Ryan. They have held up fine. I don't know how the heck you can have a zirt fitting on one of these axel joints to begin with. The ones I just did on Wally came with fittings, 2 types. Neither will fit with axel in place. So, I pumped them with grease before they went in and stuck the cap fitting in.

Here is what I got at NAPA last month...
371 Ujoint - price $30.68, net $22.99 x2 $45.98

And there are 3 seals for the Hub/Axel. One is actually a dust seal of sorts that goes on the base of the stub shaft. Then there is one next to the inner cage bearing (you should replace these bearings too - maybe that is what the SBK1 kit is, bearing and seal?), then the outer seal on the inside of the hub. I couldn't tell you now which one is which, but I got mine at NAPA:
711818 - price $5.20, net $4.69 x2 $9.38
24898 - price $5.50, net $4.99 x2 $9.98
22311 - price $9.45, net $8.49 x2 $16.98
__________________
Flint
Ran when parked.
http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s and a few Evil Twin mods, http://eviltwinfab.com and a few TT's Fabworks mods, http://www.ttsfabworks.com
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20

Last edited by fulsizjeep : 12-30-2006 at 11:52 AM.
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