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  #21  
Old 10-26-2002, 03:24 AM
Maynard Maynard is offline
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a question just popped into my head. is the carrier in a diff balanced? if it is, then if you weld the spider gears and the welds arnt exactly the same on both sides wouldnt it cause a vibration? it prolly makes no difference, but i am just curious.

[ October 26, 2002, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: Maynard ]
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  #22  
Old 10-26-2002, 07:21 AM
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irbob irbob is offline
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Brake cleaner is probly the best one and then carb cleaner. The spray cans are great cuz you can get into all the tight spots. Plan on 4-6 cans. I emptied my cabinet of all sorts of cleaners when I did mine and finished off with carb cleaner and air dried.

Great question on the vibration. I never thought about that. I actually got less noise and vibration after welding due to the fact that the spider gears had so much play in them. I rocked the tires back and fourth until the play was centered and then welded it. I'm pretty confident that the welds are very close to the same on both sides though. One thing to look out for though I'm sure. You wouldn't want to double the beads on one side and not the other or just weld one side.
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2002, 12:12 PM
MtnNate MtnNate is offline
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Jeez! Maybe I will weld it! Decisions, decisions...
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  #24  
Old 10-26-2002, 03:16 PM
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Sambo Sambo is offline
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nate, i have my rear axle welded up and only chirp around corners on pavement...also for pavement you'll want to keep the tires aired up to the max(helps keep the chirp down)...offroad you'll be king

[ October 26, 2002, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Sambo ]
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2002, 11:44 PM
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Robber80 Robber80 is offline
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if it is done right, is welding the diffs considered pretty strong? i know it can't be any stronger than the case, but compared to a lockright or something like that.
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  #26  
Old 10-27-2002, 12:42 AM
GT71Wagoneer GT71Wagoneer is offline
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Ok, dumb question time.

If I weld the spider gears in my D30 Front the only time the wheels will chirp is when the hubbs are locked and when turning? and the tcase in in 4wd?

If that is the case then it seems like a very good cheap option.

Lemme know guys, thanks GT71
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The new one:<br /><br />84 Cherokee Sportsman, White paint, 360AMC, TF727-np208, a-c, pwr steer, D44 front AMC20 rear, Rear wheel carrier and generally in bloody good shape<br /><br />My first Jeep <br />Baby powder sky blue, VOMIT :0~@@@ applied with oil based house paint with brush and roller (Previous owner)<br />71 wag - Dead stock apart from PTO - front (Being repaired)<br />D30 <br />D44 <br />Dual fuel<br />Rambler 258 to T15 3 speed <br />3 inch lift with 3 step big bore Powerdown shokkers <br />31x10x7 BFG AT\'s
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  #27  
Old 10-27-2002, 01:45 AM
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irbob irbob is offline
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Welding does the same thing as a spool does, only cheaper. It is very strong. I believe the axles would go b4 the welded gears would.

I'm not to sure but I've heard some say hear that they unlock the hubs and it's like driving with an open diff. Is that true guys. I haven't gotten into the fron't axle as of yet but with the 44WT I think I will be in there soon. Or maybe not. I put my rig through everything that I think I'll ever use it for and don't quite see a need to lock the front just yet. It would go anywhere around here.
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2002, 01:54 AM
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blt2krl blt2krl is offline
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Ya irbob welded diffs are strong but no were close to as strong as a spool. It would be a toss up between the case and the axles as far as which will break first.
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  #29  
Old 10-27-2002, 01:00 AM
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irbob irbob is offline
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Yes I can agree with that since the spool is one solid chunck of metal. In either case the I don't want to see which one would win the toss up. Not with one of "MY" axles anyway. LOL
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  #30  
Old 10-27-2002, 01:12 AM
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LOL, I here that.
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  #31  
Old 10-27-2002, 01:21 AM
GT71Wagoneer GT71Wagoneer is offline
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Hi Bob,

Bob, By the way this is a comment/question/chat and not anything else one of my friends had lockers on both front and rear on his 1978 F150 and he swore by them, I mean I have also seen him go in some places that others cant go and I guess that having front and rear lockers would have helped that. His brother tried to follow him up the same hill with the same model F150 with rear locker only and I can remember us singing "All John wants for Xmas is a front locked diff a front locked diff ohhhh a front locked diff" It was kinda a funny but you had to be there.

I see why having a locked rear diff would increase the amount of traction to the wheels that provide the most drive.

I will need this rig to be a daily driver soon and the option of only purchasing 1 diff lock unit appeals to me big time.

I hope some one can give us an answer re the question you and I have asked, if it could be done and by unlocking the hubbs even while in 4wd but moreover I am talking about being in 2wd, then if that simple action could make the front diff act like an open diff then surly it must be an advantage having a welded diff and having a open type operation when hubbs are NOT locked??? Lock front diff in 4wd by using hubbs locked and then when 4wd is not needed we could remain in 4wd on the tcase and just unlock the front hubbs???? Waddya reckon!

Sorry if I have confussed anyone but I have a habbit of repeating myself over in different ways

Geeze Bob could you actually see me tripping over as I was writting that jibber)))

Regards Geoff
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The new one:<br /><br />84 Cherokee Sportsman, White paint, 360AMC, TF727-np208, a-c, pwr steer, D44 front AMC20 rear, Rear wheel carrier and generally in bloody good shape<br /><br />My first Jeep <br />Baby powder sky blue, VOMIT :0~@@@ applied with oil based house paint with brush and roller (Previous owner)<br />71 wag - Dead stock apart from PTO - front (Being repaired)<br />D30 <br />D44 <br />Dual fuel<br />Rambler 258 to T15 3 speed <br />3 inch lift with 3 step big bore Powerdown shokkers <br />31x10x7 BFG AT\'s
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  #32  
Old 10-27-2002, 05:00 AM
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irbob irbob is offline
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Geoff...No dought there are situations where a front locker would help but I havn't encountered any as of yet. When I do I will probably sing the same song. LOL Hope someone will clear us up on the fron't diff soon b4 I need a strait jacket. See you on the next trip.
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  #33  
Old 10-27-2002, 10:08 AM
GT71Wagoneer GT71Wagoneer is offline
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Hehehe, no worries Bob, Take care.

GT71
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The new one:<br /><br />84 Cherokee Sportsman, White paint, 360AMC, TF727-np208, a-c, pwr steer, D44 front AMC20 rear, Rear wheel carrier and generally in bloody good shape<br /><br />My first Jeep <br />Baby powder sky blue, VOMIT :0~@@@ applied with oil based house paint with brush and roller (Previous owner)<br />71 wag - Dead stock apart from PTO - front (Being repaired)<br />D30 <br />D44 <br />Dual fuel<br />Rambler 258 to T15 3 speed <br />3 inch lift with 3 step big bore Powerdown shokkers <br />31x10x7 BFG AT\'s
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  #34  
Old 10-27-2002, 02:29 PM
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Sambo Sambo is offline
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i wheel with a a guy here who has the front d44 on his blazer welded...he has only tore up an axle ujoint(by being stupid,too much throttle on some air time) but since then he hasnt broke anything...hope this helps ya make some decisions
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  #35  
Old 10-27-2002, 03:05 PM
tuck tuck is offline
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gt71

I think my post mentioned that I had welded my dana 30 front... if the hubs are unlocked the welded diff is not noticed. when the hubs are locked, it is hard to steer unless I am in the mud. I wouldn't hesitate to weld my dana 30 again. It has drum brakes and 3.31's what is there to lose? BTW, I have wheeled it with 31's, 33's and now 35's... no breakage, but I have been pretty nice.
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  #36  
Old 10-27-2002, 07:49 PM
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Yea, it's very strong. Next strongest thing to a Detroit NoSpin or a Spool. MtnNate, dude, weld that thing. If you don't I'm going to hop a plane, slap you silly, weld it for you, and then leave before you know what happened Actually, the only people that really complain about welds is the short wheelbase rigs. LWB rigs like ours are MUCH better behaved with lockers and welded rearends. A guy in our club was all about saving money for lockers, then one night late around 2am before a Tellico ride we were at my friends shop and working on his rig and hassling him about how he was gonna suck at Tellico. Then after a few more beers were in him we ended up welding him up front and rear. He loves it.
-Andrew
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Originally Posted by welchct
There are about 5 trails that actualy have section that are upwards of 85* and climb 40-50 feet at this deg.

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  #37  
Old 10-27-2002, 07:55 PM
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rockjeep44 rockjeep44 is offline
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You could pour rocks, mud, grit, sand, and beer into your frontend with a welded diff and as long as you unlock the hubs you will think you have an open frontend. irbob, the feelings you had after you welded your rearend about how much better your rig was offroad are equaled by the feelings you'll have when you weld the front. Definitely. If your rig gets better offroad by 100% after the rear is locked it gets better by another 100% after the front is locked. You'll surprise the heck out of people offroad.
-Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by welchct
There are about 5 trails that actualy have section that are upwards of 85* and climb 40-50 feet at this deg.

"The combination of fine split tail and fine whiskey will make any man lose focus." -FSJeeper
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  #38  
Old 11-09-2002, 01:19 PM
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irbob irbob is offline
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I here yea rockjeep44. I am pondering the idea of welding the front but will need to install locking hubs first I guess.
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  #39  
Old 11-10-2002, 04:35 PM
GT71Wagoneer GT71Wagoneer is offline
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Tuck and Rockjeep,

Thanks for that info fellas. Ok, when you say steering is hard, how much harder would you say? I dont have pwr steer.

Irbob, we got our question answered, sounds like a good option for cheap.

Thanks again people
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The new one:<br /><br />84 Cherokee Sportsman, White paint, 360AMC, TF727-np208, a-c, pwr steer, D44 front AMC20 rear, Rear wheel carrier and generally in bloody good shape<br /><br />My first Jeep <br />Baby powder sky blue, VOMIT :0~@@@ applied with oil based house paint with brush and roller (Previous owner)<br />71 wag - Dead stock apart from PTO - front (Being repaired)<br />D30 <br />D44 <br />Dual fuel<br />Rambler 258 to T15 3 speed <br />3 inch lift with 3 step big bore Powerdown shokkers <br />31x10x7 BFG AT\'s
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  #40  
Old 11-10-2002, 10:18 PM
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scotty scotty is offline
 
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i had my front welded for awhile and liked it alot. i have a true trac in there now,and its not quite the same. it works very well,and some tappig of the brakes will keep both pulling even when one is off the ground. prolly 95% of the public would be happy with it,but im not so sure. its easy to steer,and prolly alittle easier on parts, but the welded diffy may find his way back in.

my rig does pretty good in 3wd,id just keep the left side unlocked when the trails were real dry. in the mud i could turn the wheels ok. on hardpack dirt,or other high traction sirfaces,tho,turning the wheels from lock to lock was not possible while standing still.

if you guys with the d30s keep both your hubs locked with anything bigger than 31s in anything with more traction than slippery mud,expect to break your 260x u joints fairly often. the welded front diff is a whole lot harder on things when traction is available.
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