My '84

[SJTD]

243 Was asking for pichers of how I did the hydroboost so I figgered I's post them here.

I didn't want to use a long spacer on the engine side of the firewall so I used a piece of 1" x 4" tubing. The far side hole is big enough for the spanner to fit to tighten the nut. I've read it's ok to mount it upside down.



With no spacer the pin on the pedal is too close to the firewall. I put 1/4" thick plate on each side of the pedal. The front holes in the plates pick up the original pin hole in the pedal. The left side plate is threaded to accept a bolt since a nut would interfere with the actuating rod. The rear holes take a longer bolt that also pushes on the rod.



In this one you can see a bit of the master's actuating rod. Can also see the spacer between the two plates made from a split piece of 1" tubing that lets the bolt be tightened without squeezing the side plates together.



This one shows the master rod better. There's a spacer under the washer to make up the difference between the bolt and the hole in the rod and also allows the bolt to be tightened without squeezing the rod.



All this because I didn't want to weld on the pedal to move the actuating pin to the back of the pedal. I think it's cast steel not cast iron but I'm not sure and I don't like the idea of such an important weld being in tension. At least a weld done by me.

Also moves the master away from the engine. Might be a problem since I've been thinking about about going to a hydraulic clutch.

[SJTD]

Decided to go ahead with the hydraulic clutch.

I used parts for a CJ including the hose that just needed a little reforming of the hard sections. I figgered if it didn't work out I could install them in my CJ-7.


I did have to modify length of the rod on the master so I used a rod end.



The master is pretty close to the brake booster. Had to mount it right side up so I'm going to make some sort of heat shield for the accumulator.


Slave mounted to the rear motor mount. I used a Chevy clutch fork so I had to make a threaded actuating rod.





Been working on the firewall sound barrier. I hesitate to call it soundproofing with a 70's era Diesel. Pics coming.

[fsj454]

Trouble free

I did my HB Years ago with all junk yard parts . I have put 15000 trouble free miles since . I did not have to do all that work like you did but its done . I have Hydrolic clutch trouble free as well . Nice job ...

[SJTD]

Yeah, I can't do anything simple. That's one reason I'm still working on it.

Been working on the sound proofing.

I'm following the procedures recommended on sounddeadenershowdown.com.

The idea is minimal use of butyl on the sheet metal, then a foam isolating layer with MLV on top of that.

The firewall with the foam:


The foam's about 10mm, seems like neoprene but I don't know for sure.

Too thick for under the wiper linkage and kick panels so I'm using thin polyethylene there.

Set a row of rivnuts just below the dash bolts and at the top of the firewall near the cowl to hold the vinyl.

[Frank Ziebert]

I hate reading stuff like this! These posts give me too many ideas, which cost me money, which I spend, which irratates my wife, which irratates me........
Good work BTW.

[SJTD]

Finished the MLV on the firewall. What a PITA. Hope is does some good.

Made a template:


Trying to contour the stuff around the dash curves. Glued with PVC plumbing cement. Contact cement wouldn't glue this stuff even if roughed up first.



Finished:




Transmission cover and hump will get the same treatment. I think I'm ordering the carpet with the MLV only maybe not. The floor should be much easier to do with this stuff than the dash was. Gravity would be working for me.

Kick panels will get the MLV with thinner foam. Foam on the firewall is about 3/8".

[SOLSAKS]

nice job.

I am sure it will be effective.

dave in NC

[SJTD]

Thanks, I hope you're right.

A little detail on the MLV mounting.

MLV floats on spacer. Big washer contains it. This way the screw has something solid to tighten against rather than squishing the MLV and foam together and maybe loosening up down the road.





At the top of the firewall up against the cowl are strips of ABS instead of washers to support the overhanging vinyl.


Done with this stuff for now. Got the AC mounted and working on the wiring harness that goes under the dash.

[rang-a-stang]

Awesome work! I love watching you guys with the amazing attention to detail. I wish I had the patience you guys do.

[SJTD]

At the age of 62 I decided it's time to do some growing up and in consequence I haven't gotten a lot done on the Wag. Again. Got my first real checkup since I worked on a Hot Shot crew when I was 20. The works if you know what I mean.

Then a colonoscopy which I slept through, fortunately. Worst part was signing in at the hospital and waiting. I didn't mind drinking the poison too much.

Then I got the hernia fixed. Recovery from that was unpleasant.

Haven't posted what I have done since I'm jumping off the Photobucket ship. Last straw was when they put new limits in effect before my paid in advance subscription expired. Went to Imgur and am having success.

I've converted the pics on posts after 3/19 and will continue to work back.


For my first new post with Imgur I'll put up this. I thinned out the harness and rewrapped it with spiral wrap. Across the upper edge of the fuse block in the picher you can see the three relay sockets I put in to take the load off the ignition switch.



Would you believe the factory used duct tape on the splices inside the harness? At least they were crimped and not just twisted together. Replaced with adhesive lined heat shrink.



More to follow.

[Randyzzz]

Growing old ain’t easy. That’s the reason I sold my J-20 project and my other Waggys- I’m concentrating on building my baby, an 81 Scrambler. I’ll buy another FSJ at some point, but spend the bucks and buy one that needs a lot less work. Until then I’ll have to live vicariously through threads like yours!

[bigfatdope]

Any updates?

[SJTD]

Have been working on it. Around redoing the kitchen from the studs out. Lotsa plumbing and electrical which I did.

Was a fiasco getting the cabinets. The wife convinced me to have them installed because it would take me two weeks and a pro would take two days. Plan was to make the appointment with him when the cabinets were a few weeks out.

So the cabinets trickled in over two months or more and the last to arrive was the sink base which was the starting point in this install. Then couldn't get him in so it took longer than it would me.

Overall over eight months for the job. Did get a fair amount done on the Wag working around the kitchen but I can't believe how long it's been since I posted here.


Anyway, I got the seats in. Bought some Lexus seats with recline and tilt. Reasons for the swap were the lack of headrests and recline with the old seats.


Set them up with the seats at the same height when in the middle of their travel to figger out the mounting. At this point plan was to shorten the back before reupholstery:





Removed the mounting brackets and made a frame to simulate the bases:



So I snuck this post in instead of working but I've got pics uploaded and will keep updating this. Gotta figger out how, again, to reduce the pics.

[devildog80]

Nice work going on, and hope you get the kitchen finished, as we want to see more of you here

Have an '84 GWag too, but I like the OEM seats, as more comfortable than most of these new harder ones with wings.

Pic sizes look ok to me.

[SJTD]

Ouch! First cut. No turning back now.



Tried to follow the original angle of the base and get it as low as possible. I think it ended up with new seating surface about a half inch higher than the old at nominal adjustments.

Cut a piece out about an inch from the lines. The screws are holding a form in back to hammer the flange against.


Completed flanges for the new piece to sit against.



Cut an insert out of a piece of 3"x3" tubing.



And welded it in. Used Mig rather than TIG so nothing to see here until after grinding.