How to replace rear main seal?

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  • FSJeep13
    258 I6
    • Feb 19, 2006
    • 380

    How to replace rear main seal?

    Hey, I'm pretty sure my rear main is bad. I leak oil like there is no tomorrow at times especially now that the summer heat is beating on us. I brought the jeep in to get the oil changed and as I watched the oil puddle accumulate I wondered why I was even there...

    I read the tech article here, but my question is, Do I have to take out the engine to replace the seal? or maybe transmission and Tcase? The "friends" I have at the jeep dealership told me it would be more worthwile to not fix the leak and just buy a new engine for what it will cost me. Sounds like a load of carp to me. So, can I just get under there and replace the thing? Thanks guys. Any pics would help too.
    Johnny

    2000 TJ I6, Borla header, 3.5" lift, 33x12.50 BFG ATs

    1978 Wagoneer, 401. 2"BL, 7" SOA, chrome steel wheels/ 33x12.50 BFG ATs, and tachometer hopefully done soon.
  • crazydog
    350 Buick
    • Nov 19, 2005
    • 865

    #2
    You do not need to pull the engine or buy a reman to fix the leak. Just follow the instructions and you can change the seal with the engine in the Jeep.
    1979 Cherokee - Built 401, NV4500, Dana 300, 6" BJ's Lift w/ Bilstein 5125 Shocks, Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 35X12.5R15, Front Brake Upgrade w/ GM 2500 Calipers & EBC Pads, Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Z&M Jeeps Dash Insert w/ VDO Series 1 Gauges, Tad Rack, Ramsey Hidden Winch w/ REP8000, Hydroboost, CS140

    1967 J3500 - Making plans

    Comment


    • #3
      they are blowing air up your skirt.

      pull the oil pan, remove the rear main bearing cap, pull the old seal out, push the new one in, reinstall bearing cap, reinstall oil pan.

      Al
      79 Cherokee Chief "Kronk" - TBI350/SM465/NP205
      99 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Cummins 24v
      07 Mazdaspeed3 GT - Big turbo, 340whp

      Comment

      • FSJeep13
        258 I6
        • Feb 19, 2006
        • 380

        #4
        dmnit! I knew I shouldn't have worn that in there.
        I checked at the back of the valve covers to see if there were leaks there. I forgot to check at the heads. I found a red oily fluid on the back of the intake. Must be ATF. I know the filler is back there... I do leak enough of ATF as well. hopefully that is just another gasket or seal.

        Johnny

        2000 TJ I6, Borla header, 3.5" lift, 33x12.50 BFG ATs

        1978 Wagoneer, 401. 2"BL, 7" SOA, chrome steel wheels/ 33x12.50 BFG ATs, and tachometer hopefully done soon.

        Comment

        • bushwood44
          350 Buick
          • Jan 22, 2008
          • 803

          #5
          hopefully its the trans pan gasket instead of trans pump seal(probably both)
          88 Grand Wagoneer
          99 Camaro z28
          73 Honda st 90
          79 F250

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          • superal30
            232 I6
            • Apr 11, 2007
            • 64

            #6
            The rear seal change is a cake walk, if your half way mechanically friendly. On mine I just jacked the jeep up by the frame (lets the axle droop away from the engine for more room). Pulled the pan and rear main, changed seal retorqed and reassemble. The most challenging part of the whole thing is putting the pan and pan gasket back up. That's always easier when the engines out, unless you're in a gravity free zone . Good luck you'll do fine.
            I'll take one 1976 wagoneer...Oh and hold the rust, please!!

            Comment

            • intenseimages
              232 I6
              • Jul 11, 2008
              • 78

              #7
              these guys are halfway right on how easy it isnt. lol

              here is the way it usually happens:

              go to store buy parts,
              stop at next store pick up drinks of choice
              go home, drain oil
              drop pan
              drop rear main bearing cap

              next step is to spend 3 days dropping crap on your face while trying to get the frozen in place rear main seasl out of engine.

              once it is finally out though it is a matter of rolling new seal in and bolting it all back up (please remember te re-install drain plug) and filling wiht oil

              eric
              It's a long way to the top, if you wanna rock and roll.

              Comment

              • FSJeep13
                258 I6
                • Feb 19, 2006
                • 380

                #8
                sweet. I'm excited. I thought this was going to be a real downer! People were telling me, "yeah you better just rebuild the whole engine while you have it out to do the rear main..." blah blah blah. thanks guys
                Johnny

                2000 TJ I6, Borla header, 3.5" lift, 33x12.50 BFG ATs

                1978 Wagoneer, 401. 2"BL, 7" SOA, chrome steel wheels/ 33x12.50 BFG ATs, and tachometer hopefully done soon.

                Comment

                • srobertsfsj
                  304 AMC
                  • Aug 26, 2002
                  • 1750

                  #9
                  Shimniok and I did the one on my J20 a couple years back and it wasnt that hard. A couple of tips he gave me were to remove the rear bearing cap and loosen the next bearing cap. I also bought some soft brass rod and used it to drive out the old seal. The soft brass shouldn't score the block. And make sure you tighten the bearing caps down to the correct torque.
                  Scott R.

                  '86 Grand Wagoneer Super Chief 360 / TBI / WT conversion / 35x12.5x16 BFG Mud-Terrains (Project Link)
                  http://www.cfsja.org / http://www.fsjnetwork.com

                  "After years of being paranoid about my Jeep?s temp going towards that 220F mark, I?m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy




                  Comment

                  • caionneach
                    350 Buick
                    • Aug 19, 2003
                    • 1022

                    #10
                    to make it easier...

                    Can't believe the guys aren't telling you this:

                    To make it easier to get the top half of the seal out, you need to drop the crank, otherwise it can be a PITA.

                    To do that not only do you need to follow the manual and loose the bolts on all the main journals, but you also need to LOOSEN THE BELTS ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.

                    The belts maintain upward pressure on the crankshaft, and loosening the belts makes it all easy.
                    1982 Cherokee
                    258 cid/T-5 $15 Sunpro Voltmeter gauge
                    replacement; Quadratec Trailmax Thermal Pro
                    Seats! 4 inch SKYJACKER suspension lift, 33X12.5 in
                    BFG Mud Terrain Tires on 15X10 in ProComp Rims.
                    New BJ's chrome-moly rear axle shafts, 3.73:1 diffs and ARB Air Locker!

                    Comment

                    • JERSEY JOE
                      304 AMC
                      • Jan 15, 2004
                      • 1601

                      #11
                      REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT

                      Also you can back off the main cap screws to drop the crank a few thousands. Also the most important thing is to make sure the rear main cap is clean and put silicone sealer in the chamfer between the cap and the block. If you do not do tis you will be doing the job twice.

                      READ THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE JEEP SERVICE MANUAL AND FOLLOW THEM TO A TEE. SOMEONE HERE CAN POST THE PAGE FOR YOU.

                      It is easier with the motor out or if you leaving it in beg borrow whatever, get access to a lift. Doing this job on your back is more of an adventure than you want especially for a novice.
                      1985 J-20 401 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck. CURRENT PROJECT
                      1986 CJ 7 360 T-18 granny low Dana 44 , 4 inch lift 35's
                      1882 CJ 7 360 727 auto Dana 60's 35's cage
                      1970 AMX was SCCA B production. 390 cross ram. GOOGLE IT

                      Comment

                      • Gil
                        258 I6
                        • Dec 01, 2007
                        • 278

                        #12
                        I did the rear main seal...took 5 hours and it still leaks. My mechanic would have done it for $185...would have been worth it. But, I learned a lot -- like I have no business under a Jeep!!

                        Hey, if your Jeep place can replace an engine for $185, go for it
                        Gil
                        1980 Cherokee Chief

                        Comment

                        • caionneach
                          350 Buick
                          • Aug 19, 2003
                          • 1022

                          #13
                          Ditto what Jersey Joe said

                          Following the instructions assiduously (also known as "to a tee") is very important.

                          --the rear main journal area must be clean (use brake cleaner as needed, so have several cans ready)
                          --if the rear main area isn't clean the RTV on the areas as specified (joints of the upper and bottom seal, chamferred areas on the rear main cap) will not make a good seal.

                          But other than that it's easy. If it looks clean, assume it's not and use brake cleaner to make sure.
                          1982 Cherokee
                          258 cid/T-5 $15 Sunpro Voltmeter gauge
                          replacement; Quadratec Trailmax Thermal Pro
                          Seats! 4 inch SKYJACKER suspension lift, 33X12.5 in
                          BFG Mud Terrain Tires on 15X10 in ProComp Rims.
                          New BJ's chrome-moly rear axle shafts, 3.73:1 diffs and ARB Air Locker!

                          Comment

                          • Sbonley
                            327 Rambler
                            • Dec 16, 2002
                            • 592

                            #14
                            Also make sure it is not the oil galley seal at the back of the block. Those are notorious for leaking and it looks like a rear main seal leak because of its location.
                            \'79 Cherokee Golden Eagle<br />Mostly Stock (for the moment)

                            Comment

                            • 4x4fEvEr
                              350 Buick
                              • May 25, 2005
                              • 803

                              #15
                              what? you guys are making it sound hard! its not. your mechanic friends saying rebuild or get a new engine must think it has a one piece rear main seal and in that case you would need to pull the tranny or pull the engine, but AMC's are two piece seals so like most have said just drop the pan take off the main cap and loosen the next one. pull off the bottom part of main seal and then use a punch or something similar to start the top half of seal . then do the reverse for putting it back on. make sure u get the lip on the seal facing the correct direction and be sure to torque all bolts back to specs. the biggest pain is getting the pan back on for sure.
                              77 cherokee chief 360/435/205-60/60-42's

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