360 Rebuild Suggestions

[Gymmie J10]

OK, it seems like I just need to start the rebuild process on my '77 360.

Not wanting to do a complete rebuild unless it's really needed.
I hope this is the board for this but I'm asking for your help as to how to go about this. Where do I start? Keep in mind my pockets are not at all deep these days (kids in college) and this is obviously my first attempt at this. Very limited on tools and even more limited on knowledge.

Ideally I'd like the 360 running as well as possible, good power (not looking for a racer), mainly want it more dependable as opposed to power. A few "niceties" would be sweet. standard "dress up" items are OK. But again, just wondering where to start, things I can do myself as much as possible before taking to a shop.

Please offer up suggestions and pointers....thanks

BTW - If you can offer up rough costs to expect, that would help greatly as far as planning this.

[Ristow]

tear it down all the way

hot tank the block,hone the cylinders for a re-ring. cast rings.

new cam bearings in block.

have crank turned.

P.A.W has a copy grind of the performer cam,nice cam for a stock rebuild. get the overhaul kit from them as well,with fel-pro gaskets and double roller timing kit upgrades.

rebuild the heads is a good idea if money allows.

at that point there's a few things you can do upon reassembly as well.

[4x4Dad]

On the recommendation of an active member here, I looked into getting my 360 rebuilt at a specific engine shop. At that shop, if the engine needed EVERYTHING done to it (like honing the cylinders, balancing, a valve job--not always needed in a rebuild), he was going to charge me upwards of $2800 in labor to make it like new. He himself didn't expect it to be that much. He just wanted to let me know what the high end would be.

Again, that price may not be typical, but it was from a respected source who does good work. I'm either going to go with this guy or one place that's a little more local for me.

[Highflyr]

Just do what I'm doing and "refresh the motor" If the bottom end is good why mess with it. I bought a cam/ lifter set, double roller timing set, and pushrods all for about $300 plus $100 for all new gaskets and seals. Re-did all the belts, hoses, water pump, fluids, and planned steam cleaning of the engine for another $200. Then added a HEI dizzy for another $250. By the end of this weekend it'll be a whole new Jeep. So far my total cost for the Jeep is just over $1600 including the $300 purchase price and a $500 order of various gaskets, brake parts, lenes, and switches from BJs I placed 2 weeks ago and still havn't recieved (hint hint). BTW I have to give a huge thanks to Ristow, fulsizjeep, and all the others here that have given such great advice.

[J20 project]

Well, having done this a number of times, If your bottom line is that,,the bottom line, find a engine reman outfit and order one. A, you will have some form of warranty, B, you won't be subject to the,,well it might cost $2800 just for the labor BS..IT'S GOING TO COST THAT, HE'S JUST SETTING YOUR MIND UP FOR IT.

At any rate, I would look around, get prices written down(a real quote), budget for it and you may not end up getting divorced...LOL
J20 project

[[]V[]AXX]

Well, having done this a number of times, If your bottom line is that,,the bottom line, find a engine reman outfit and order one. A, you will have some form of warranty, B, you won't be subject to the,,well it might cost $2800 just for the labor BS..IT'S GOING TO COST THAT, HE'S JUST SETTING YOUR MIND UP FOR IT.

At any rate, I would look around, get prices written down(a real quote), budget for it and you may not end up getting divorced...LOL
J20 project

x2 on the reman engine. You can go one of two flavors. You can go shortblock and price having your heads done, or you can buy the long block. It depends on cost. The long block is generally the better deal, but you never know. I personally, do not like re-ring jobs on high mileage engines. If you pull it down, and see a ring groove, it's time for new pistons. If you're willing to spend the money for good parts and machine work, my suggestion is a quality full rebuild. You can pick a better cam while you're at it, and you'll know what's in it. If you choose the remanufactured route, take your oil pan, valve covers, and intake manifold into a shop and have them hot tanked or bead blasted unless you feel like wasting several hours of your life cleaning obstinate parts. One of these days I am going to own a decent compressor and a blast cabinet...

[GWDriver]

My rebuild with .30 inch overbore, done by a local racing engine builder cost me $1300. I broke the engine down & reassembled most of it (they did the heads).

Haven't had a problem from their work. I DID have issues with the PO's wiring add on's though.

Ditto the other comments......... Just get it one the road and.... .....and...............

[Gymmie J10]

Thanks Guys!

The engine only has 63k miles on it but it's been sitting for a number of years (1800 miles in 14 yrs). I also have a really good, trustworthy mechanic. He's just overloaded at times and thus very slow. But I'd trust him with anything.

J20 - I'm already divourced...twice. Very happily single these days and thus the decision to start a restore of 2 classics (the 46 Willy's is next....I've already had 2 people request to buy it).

This J10 though will be my winter driver and general hauler. So as I stated, if it's torn down for the Summer, that's fine. Just as long as it's running by Fall.

[Chris P.]

If it wasn't abused, then it shouldn't need a rebuild with only 63,000 miles. An engine doesn't wear out by sitting. It might just need a carb rebuild and a few gaskets.

[Gymmie J10]

I agree

I fully have to agree....at 63K I wouldn't think it would need a rebuild. It wasn't beat at all.

This is why I'm thinking of replacing the basics first, most likely attempt the carb fix first and see what that fixes and then go from there.
If it doesn't need a rebuild, all the better.

I'm a firm believer of "if it's not broken, don't fix it".....unless it's about to break....LOL

So this weekend I'm just planning on checking all the hoses, connections, etc.
Just gotta clean it first.....the engine has about an inch of dust and dirt on it (I'm in the desert portion of WA).

[tgreese]

A running engine is much easier to evaluate than an engine on the shop floor. Do all the external stuff you need (tune up, hoses, carb rebuild etc) and then look at the oil pressure and compression. Do a compression check wet and dry. I agree, a 63K mile engine is just getting broken in, if it's been well cared for. If the engine has problems, it will make bad noises and/or show up in the oil pressure or compression.

[Skeeter74]

(I'm in the desert portion of WA).

Seriously!? So what, it only rains 100 days a year?