Holley Pro jection question (will e?)

[CheapJeep]

Hey-
Have holley pro-jection on my new wag, haven't driven it much, but when I go to start it when cold, it takes some playing around to get started.

PO said turn on key, wait 5 sec, push pedal to floor (set cold idle) and then crank
worked perfectly in his driveway, once home, doesn't want to do it! (it's been around freezing here temp wise)
When it does start, it idles high, doesn't always want to drop off fast idle, (almost seems to stick at fast) and some hesitation if I rev it up.
when it goes down to reg idle, it sounds GREAT!
I just replaceed a VERY stiff throttle return spring w/ alighter one, would this make a diff?
Thanks
Scott

[Spectre]

"Push pedal to floor" is "clear flood", not "set cold idle". Sounds like you might be running too rich.

You need to reset the TPS voltage and go through the tuning process again.

[CheapJeep]

So what should the correct cold starting process be? owners manual that came with isn't really helpful for driving [img]smile.gif[/img] just set up
thanks
scott

[Spectre]

Turn key to "on", wait for fuel pressure to come up if needed (I don't have to), turn key to start - vehicle should start. Adjust the fast idle solenoid to get the cold idle where you want it - I still need to get off my butt and reset mine.

[jhulsey]

Yours could be somewhat different depending on how far out you have your fast idle solinoid set. These are not designed to push the throttle open, but hold them open. I always push my pedal down at least half way, this lets the fast idle plunger extend to hold the throttle. For me, living in GA, i disconnect mine for most the year. Because I dont like how long the fast idle stays on. The Pro-Jection works great after the bugs are worked out. I have had one on my CJ-5 for 3 years, about to put one on my 78 Cherokee.

[jhulsey]

Yours could be somewhat different depending on how far out you have your fast idle solinoid set. These are not designed to push the throttle open, but hold them open. I always push my pedal down at least half way, this lets the fast idle plunger extend to hold the throttle. For me, living in GA, i disconnect mine for most the year. Because I dont like how long the fast idle stays on. The Pro-Jection works great after the bugs are worked out. I have had one on my CJ-5 for 3 years, about to put one on my 78 Cherokee.

[will e]

I have two of these systems. In both cars I can just turn the key to on, wait for a few seconds for the pressure to come up (but you don't have to) and fire it right up.

My fast solinoid isn't strong enough to push the trottle open but it will hold it open while cold.

A couple of things you can do/check:

The system uses a signal to detect the engine is being cranked. This is the pink wire, probably connected to the starter solinoid. Make sure this is getting 12 volts while cranking (and only while cranking). I put mine on the LARGE terminal on the STARTER side of the solinoid on my jeep (only way it seemed to work). On my Mustang I have it on the small 's' post.

Check to see if the Fuel Pump is wired to the ECU or if a RELAY has been added. If it is wired directly to the ECU then you might be getting a voltage drop to the pump while cranking. Set up a relay to power the pump. Use the ECU pump terminals to trigger the relay, wire the relay power right to the battery. Use a 30 amp fuse.

The stiff throttle sping was there to make sure the system goes back to idle when you take your foot off the gas (after warmup). Mine didn't without an extra spring so I added one. I think Joe G had the same problem. I would put the spring back on, especially if it is a 'second' spring. Always good to have more than 1 return spring.

To get it to run right while it is cold you can play with the choke setting but don't do this until you get the starting problem worked out.

And, as was stated, do not put the floor it while cranking unless you believe it is flooded.

[Chevelleguy]

On the 2D setup, if you push the pedal to the floor with the key on, the ECM fires the injectors to give you some startup fuel.

[CheapJeep]

ok, i tried to start it cold:
turn key on (heard pump run) no gas --
cranked a little, started then died (not enough idle)
try 2: turn key on, gas at 1/2 then let off
cranked and started then died (again, not enough idle)
try 3: pedal to floor and let off, turn key on, crank and apply a smidge of gas, started and ran fine (cold--fast idle)
dropped to reg idle and runs smooth

if i give it lots of gas, it stumbles
if I give it gas while on high idle, it stumbles

it does appear that the throttle return spring is too light (the orig one was soo stiff it mad the pedal really hard to press)

I was told that until it drops to reg idle it can't be driven (ie warm up time)
doesn't that defeat the purpose of EFI?
Thanks for all the help so far
I know it will work out in the end, just need to get there (oh, and reg and insurance [img]smile.gif[/img]
Scott

[will e]

You can drive it cold. I do all of the time.
Make sure a CTO is not causing a vacuum leak when the engine is cold. I had to do little to no adjusting on mine to get it to run cold. (Now, cold in arizona is, you know, 50 degrees)

But that just doesn't sound right. And these systems work different than a carb. A carb 'chokes' the air off, a FI adds extra fuel.

Try this:
Turn key on
Tap gas (to allow solinoid to enguage)
Turn key to start
Drive away (hopefully)

[CheapJeep]

I'll try again tomorrow, I need to look under the hood when it warms up and track some vac/ emiss hoses, so we'll see.
thanks

btw- how do I tell if it is analog/ what model?
the 'parts tag' that is in w/ the manual says 502-1 as the part no.
other than that, no info in the manual for type but the date on the manual is 1993

[will e]

Is the ECU service part number listed in the manual a 534-24-1?

Is the ECU itself basically a rectangle box with plastic ends that have some mounting tabs and 5 nobs on the front? If so, its analog. ALso, the analog didn't have a MAP sensor and I think the digital does. Also, I think the digital comes with an o2 sensor and this was an add on option for the analog that required another small control box.

[CheapJeep]

yes, 534-24-1 is the number in the manual (didn't even see it the first time!)
starting--
worked better this time, still stumbles when you give it gas-
need to wait for it to warm up a bit to search for vac leaks-- it's snowing now

[will e]

Originally posted by CheapJeep:

need to wait for it to warm up a bit to search for vac leaks-- it's snowing now

I was thinking that the vac leak may be part of a system that only has vacuum when it is cold. So you might want to check then. Glad it is starting to get a little better for you.

[CheapJeep]

there is a LARGE extra/ replacement for stock? vacuum canister mounted on fender
who knows (really want tags so i can drive this and figure it out!!)