Getting frustrated, just throwing this out as an idea...

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  • kevinz
    232 I6
    • Jan 04, 2011
    • 109

    Getting frustrated, just throwing this out as an idea...

    I have a 79 Jeep J10 that I made into a hot rod. It's 2WD now because it didn't have the QT when I bought it and I didn't want the 4x4 anyway for it. So, that brings me to a problem, namely that solid front axle and namely, the pumpkin in the middle.

    I've searched all over the net for dimensions for various bolt-in IFS systems (Chevy trucks, Dodge trucks, Pacer, etc) and it seems to be a lot harder to find than it should be. I'm about to give up on this and stick to straight axle.

    I've considered the aftermarket drop axles that can be had in almost any size and configuration, BUT I don't have the kind of coin to drop on one of those AND the whole steering setup for it. Plus I haven't found one with a 6 lug wheel pattern, and dangit I like my factory Jeep mags so I'm not losing them.

    I'd really be interested in the CJ-10A tug axle since it is supposedly a bolt-in mod for a J10 but let's face it, the military faced them out years ago and sold or junked them so they aren't exactly easy to come across.

    So, just a THOUGHT; i'm not saying I'm going to or not, just thinking...Jeep designed these trucks so that even under full suspension travel, the pumpkin won't hit a 360 oil pan. My truck is stock so the axle is already above the springs with the steering. SO...what would be the harm or ramifications of just using lowering blocks between the axle and springs to lower the truck about 3 inches?

    Again, just thinking a little here and looking for some opinions.
  • babywag
    out of order
    • Jun 08, 2005
    • 10287

    #2
    I wouldn't use blocks on the front...
    If it sits too high for your taste, take a leaf(or 2) out of the spring pack.
    Tony
    88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

    Comment

    • AKJ20
      232 I6
      • May 17, 2008
      • 130

      #3
      If it was me i would loose the jeep frame all together.

      I would look for Chevy c10 frame. Huge aftermarket support. You can get a small 3in drop coil springs or bag it, for full drop in the grass look. Yes it will be more work swapping the body , but in the end i think i would look killer.

      Plus you can keep your rims.
      Never trust a private with a loaded weapon, or an officer with a map.

      06 Chevy HHR 3in drop ,rims, stereo, grill ,auto start and reliable !

      The Punisher 1978 J20
      4in lift 37 mt with cut out rusted fender! Now with a tailgate !


      Comment

      • Ghinmi
        Super Moderator

        Moderator
        • Jul 02, 2004
        • 2147

        #4
        You need to do a little reading in the street and performance section. Wagoneers/Cherokees have been done with Camaro and Mustang II subframes, full chassis swaps, custom drop axles, etc.

        Yep, I know my PM box is full. Email me instead.

        1983 Cherokee WT - IFS, trailing arm rear, full cage, Hemi, 6 speed, turbocharged - Autocross project
        http://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=127321

        Comment

        • kevinz
          232 I6
          • Jan 04, 2011
          • 109

          #5
          i don't have the time, money, or ability to do a clip swap. i have been there and even participated in a couple threads, one of which made mention of using a crown vic front crossmember and suspension and had a couple links to discussions on ford forums. i had very seriously considered it, except for the lack of 6-lug pattern and the fact that i think our frames have too high of an arch in the front to accomodate the solid axle. sucks too, cuz in kansas city the junkyards are loaded with old cop crown vics, taxi crown vics, regular vics...basically i had more than enough to choose from.

          i guess it just frustrates me a lot not being able to do this...every other make of truck (even international!) seems to have a simple way to drop it, but for some reason us jeepers are out in the cold unless you wanna do major fab work. it's worth it in the end, but when you're knee deep in the job and frustration, you kinda lose sight of that.

          Comment

          • wag4x6
            258 I6
            • Feb 15, 2010
            • 296

            #6
            Is hate to break this to you, youre building a custom truck and with that will come custom work.
            89 Grand Waggy, freshened up 360, 727, NP229, SOA/SF, highsteer w/ chevy knuckles, Dana 44's f/r, 35" Maxxis Big Horns, some rock rash and more to come....

            R.I.P 87 Waggy

            www.socalultimate4x4.com

            Comment

            • kevinz
              232 I6
              • Jan 04, 2011
              • 109

              #7
              i understand that. i'm just saying i'm getting frustrated with how easy the chevy and ford guys have it with this Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley and the jeepers are left out in the dust, forced to come up with solutions that are 10x harder. BUT since no one seems to understand i'll just shut up and let my truck sit and rot, since thats all the aftermarket thinks they're good for cuz they don't make anything for these trucks like they do the others.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by babywag
                I wouldn't use blocks on the front...
                If it sits too high for your taste, take a leaf(or 2) out of the spring pack.
                not tomention in most places it would not be street leagal.
                85 gw 215k and still going
                castrated(de-wooded)360 2" espo springs 31x10.5
                89 gw,free,almost legal

                She can dance a Cajun rhythm,Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive,

                the world is full of kings and queens who blind your eyes and steal your dreams

                "Our militarized "law enforcement" has become the standing army our founders feared"

                Comment

                • wag4x6
                  258 I6
                  • Feb 15, 2010
                  • 296

                  #9
                  Originally posted by kevinz
                  i understand that. i'm just saying i'm getting frustrated with how easy the chevy and ford guys have it with this Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley and the jeepers are left out in the dust, forced to come up with solutions that are 10x harder. BUT since no one seems to understand i'll just shut up and let my truck sit and rot, since thats all the aftermarket thinks they're good for cuz they don't make anything for these trucks like they do the others.
                  I completely understand. Ive been building custom trucks for the last 18years. Sometimes things are hard to do but the reward for thinking outside the box is a million times better then a catalog built truck. Usually an easily built truck means that everyone at the car show or the cruise night has the same truck, with the same parts, from the same catalog.
                  Build your truck for yourself before you build it for anyone else. Try not to get discouraged, I learned from doing my building my own trucks because I couldnt afford to pay someone. One of the best feelings I get, even after 18 years of fabing stuff, is when I look at a completed project and think to myself,"Hey I built that".
                  89 Grand Waggy, freshened up 360, 727, NP229, SOA/SF, highsteer w/ chevy knuckles, Dana 44's f/r, 35" Maxxis Big Horns, some rock rash and more to come....

                  R.I.P 87 Waggy

                  www.socalultimate4x4.com

                  Comment

                  • Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
                    Cherokee Outlaw
                    • Jan 10, 2006
                    • 7292

                    #10
                    Take a look at '03+ Panther (Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, Ect.) sub-frames. I've seen a couple old F-100s done up with them before.
                    -Jonny B.
                    1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
                    7" Alcan springs, BJ's HD shackles - 35x12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
                    AMC 401 - Pro-Flo 4 EFI
                    NV4500/NWF BB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
                    F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
                    R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker

                    1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
                    1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
                    1979 Wagoneer - Sold
                    1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed

                    Comment

                    • AKJ20
                      232 I6
                      • May 17, 2008
                      • 130

                      #11
                      BUT since no one seems to understand i'll just shut up and let my truck sit and rot, since thats all the aftermarket thinks they're good for cuz they don't make anything for these trucks like they do the others
                      I understand completely

                      YOU WANT CHEAP, CHINESE BOLT ON PARTS, SO YOU CAN DROP A 4X4 JEEP

                      Sell the Jeep and buy a chevy trunk or ricer !
                      Never trust a private with a loaded weapon, or an officer with a map.

                      06 Chevy HHR 3in drop ,rims, stereo, grill ,auto start and reliable !

                      The Punisher 1978 J20
                      4in lift 37 mt with cut out rusted fender! Now with a tailgate !


                      Comment

                      • Ghinmi
                        Super Moderator

                        Moderator
                        • Jul 02, 2004
                        • 2147

                        #12
                        Originally posted by kevinz
                        I'd really be interested in the CJ-10A tug axle since it is supposedly a bolt-in mod for a J10 but let's face it, the military faced them out years ago and sold or junked them so they aren't exactly easy to come across.

                        So, just a THOUGHT; i'm not saying I'm going to or not, just thinking...Jeep designed these trucks so that even under full suspension travel, the pumpkin won't hit a 360 oil pan. My truck is stock so the axle is already above the springs with the steering. SO...what would be the harm or ramifications of just using lowering blocks between the axle and springs to lower the truck about 3 inches?

                        Again, just thinking a little here and looking for some opinions.
                        The '10a axles are a little scarce but you can find them around and they're usually super cheap. The only problem is they're narrow trac so you'd need to use spacers on your J-truck. Worse comes to worse, cut the outer C's off of a Dana 44 and use them to make a custom tube axle to the right width.

                        What might be a decent option is an XJ Cherokee 2wd front axle and the 5 to 6-lug adapters might put it at the right width for your truck? Just need to weld on spring perches/shock mounts Then just have some lowering springs made and you're in business.

                        Either way, there will never be a pre-made system to lower a J-series. There's just no money to be made. Our Jeeps just aren't as popular/mainstream as the big 3 and we're all cheapskates. How many of us would actually buy a $3k+ suspension conversion? It's a little frustrating but that's life.
                        Yep, I know my PM box is full. Email me instead.

                        1983 Cherokee WT - IFS, trailing arm rear, full cage, Hemi, 6 speed, turbocharged - Autocross project
                        http://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=127321

                        Comment

                        • KJ Ryu
                          350 Buick
                          • Sep 06, 2008
                          • 771

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Ghinmi
                          Worse comes to worse, cut the outer C's off of a Dana 44 and use them to make a custom tube axle to the right width.
                          I helped a buddy do this with a D30. It was for a dune buggy but, it works perfectly and it only took an afternoon.
                          Ron

                          2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
                          1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
                          1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
                          1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

                          Originally posted by Mars
                          One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            i am into 30s cars, and with some cars you can flip the main leaf to drop it. they ususally dont have the arch like a jeep, and im not sure if its even possible, but soemthing to look into, or have the sprins de-arched. a problem with removing leaves, you can weaken the spring and the axle can roll quite a bit when you lay on the brakes which on some vehicles wil leffect the steering.this is pretty common with the early cars, not the same as a jeep with a solid axle, but things to keep in mind.
                            Last edited by Guest; 03-11-2012, 04:03 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Look for an early Chev with 6 lug solid front axle (no diff) and do a disc brake conversion on it (guess if you did that, it wouldn't matter if it was 6 lug or not)
                              Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

                              Comment

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