rang-a-stang's summer project/build

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  • rang-a-stang
    Administrator
    • Oct 31, 2016
    • 5472

    After 4 nights of tinkering, I finally got all my pulleys lined up. Basically, I didn't get any of the spacers that originally came with the kit so I had to figure out what size and fab each one. I started by reseating my balancer and re-bolting the crank pulley on. This aligned the crank to the water pump (I guess my balancer was not correctly seated because there was about 1/2" misalignment before). The power steering pump pulley was wrong so I swapped it to a spare and it lined up to the crank. Then I measured for spacers and fab'ed them to get the idler on the driver side all lined up to the PS pump and crank. Next I moved to the York mount. It needed to come out 1/2" so I fabbed some spacers up for that. The York mount pulled the 2 passenger side idlers out with it. I measured for new hardware for the alt mount/idlers and got it all lined up, too. Finally, I had to swap pulleys on my alt to get it lined up, and that pulley needed a 1/8" spacer. Whew!!! None of this was hard, just tedious.
    I measured for a belt and it's a ginormous 8 feet 10". I am officially out of money again so I have to wait until next paycheck to get my belt: It won't start before Christmas.
    I installed my new power steering lines and have started wiring up the motor. I painted my York and it's mount because they were gross. They look better but not awesome. I have my nylon Fuel supply line installed on my tank but forgot to pick up a 3/8" rubber hose for between the pickup and the nylon line so I couldn't install my tank. Hopefully tomorrow.
    Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
    (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
    (Cherokee Build Thread)
    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
    00 Baby Cherokee

    Comment

    • babywag
      out of order
      • Jun 08, 2005
      • 10284

      Coming along nicely...
      Just me but you couldn't pay me to run that serpentine setup.
      Zero benefits for cost/hassle and it looks ridiculous IMHO.

      On another note, are you planning to break in the cam w/ TBI setup?
      May want to consider using the carb you had.
      The last thing you want is an oddity/gremlin to cause issue(s) w/ break-in.
      You only get the one chance to do it right.
      Tony
      88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

      Comment

      • iapexl8r
        232 I6
        • Jul 06, 2018
        • 77

        progress!! I like it.. Your getting close, but now is not the time to rush it. Remember you only get to build it once. its not the destination but the journey that really matters. keep up the good work




        Chris
        1976 Cherokee chief
        1970 AMC rebel THE MACHINE
        1969 AMX
        1965 mustang fastback
        1972 international travelette
        Yes I have a problem that?s why Iam here

        Comment

        • bkilby
          350 Buick
          • Jan 10, 2016
          • 1083

          Originally posted by rang-a-stang
          After 4 nights of tinkering, I finally got all my pulleys lined up. Basically, I didn't get any of the spacers that originally came with the kit so I had to figure out what size and fab each one. I started by reseating my balancer and re-bolting the crank pulley on. This aligned the crank to the water pump (I guess my balancer was not correctly seated because there was about 1/2" misalignment before). The power steering pump pulley was wrong so I swapped it to a spare and it lined up to the crank. Then I measured for spacers and fab'ed them to get the idler on the driver side all lined up to the PS pump and crank. Next I moved to the York mount. It needed to come out 1/2" so I fabbed some spacers up for that. The York mount pulled the 2 passenger side idlers out with it. I measured for new hardware for the alt mount/idlers and got it all lined up, too. Finally, I had to swap pulleys on my alt to get it lined up, and that pulley needed a 1/8" spacer. Whew!!! None of this was hard, just tedious.


          Lol! I'm betting you wished my Serp belt AMC was still at the shop for reference. Yeah, some serious improvements on the serp kit is needed, that's for sure. I hope it all works out for you. Keep up the good work!
          1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!

          Comment

          • rang-a-stang
            Administrator
            • Oct 31, 2016
            • 5472

            That's a fantastic idea (carb to start/break-in cam)! But I already sold it, like a knuckle head. I don't expect it to fire first time and it certainly won't run "well" when it does start.

            My thoughts on the Serpentine kit: It's one belt to squeal instead of 4, one belt to adjust instead of 4, one spare belt to carry instead of 3, and they seem to last longer. Is it worth $500+; not in my opinion. Was it worth the $75 I paid Wes for it, yeah. Would I have paid $75 for it if I knew I was going to be spending another $25 in hardware and 4 nights getting it to fit, Nope.

            Good point, iapexl8r. I heard Freiburger make a statement on a recent RK or RKG; He said "Don't get it right, get it running." That's kind of where I'm at. I am not taking short cuts but I want my garage back, I want to drive this thing, and I am sick of bleeding $$. I am doing a lot of "Clean it: paint it black and put it back" when I should be sand blasting, priming, and painting.

            I'll tell you what Bkilby, I was ready to set this turd on fire when I first noticed things not lining up! If you still had yours, I would have made a road trip out there to check it out for sure.
            *************************

            The Eagle has landed! I put all new gaskets in the TBI, installed my flow matched injectors, and planted it on my mill. The adapter plate I bought was for the smaller TBI so I had to grind out the throats to match the 454 throats. Also started my wiring. the black fuzzies are pipe cleaners. I use them to keep my wire runs together (they were cheaper than twist ties).

            I got the fuel pump all figured out. The clamps are the ones that came with the fuel filter and I am undecided if I am going to leave them or replace them with the EFI clamps I bought. Those brackets are electrical conduit brackets from Home Depot (they were less than $3). However, the cost of the little doo dads here and there are KIIIIIILLLLLLIIINNNNG me. This nylon fuel line is pretty awesome. I like it. I find if you heat up the fitting with a heat gun, the line slides right on. If you heat the line, it bends and distorts as you push it on. I have not had issues making the bends I need to either. Then again, I have not installed the one plastic fitting yet.

            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
            (Cherokee Build Thread)
            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
            00 Baby Cherokee

            Comment

            • Frank Ziebert
              327 Rambler
              • Dec 04, 2016
              • 620

              Very Nicely done. It looks great.
              1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
              Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified

              Comment

              • babywag
                out of order
                • Jun 08, 2005
                • 10284

                That's a fantastic idea (carb to start/break-in cam)! But I already sold it, like a knuckle head. I don't expect it to fire first time and it certainly won't run "well" when it does start.
                Borrow/buy used one and sell when done?
                Need to make sure it fires and runs good for the cam break in.
                Any gremlins in TBI and you risk damage to your nice new engine.
                If you're confident nevermind, but something to think about.
                Tony
                88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                Comment

                • Driftwood
                  350 Buick
                  • Jun 12, 2000
                  • 959

                  What tool is required to remove the stock pulley from the power steering pump? My pump reservoir is leaking and needs a new seal.

                  Originally posted by rang-a-stang
                  1979 Wagoneer

                  Comment

                  • SOLSAKS
                    304 AMC
                    • Jul 25, 2016
                    • 1781

                    engine and pulley system look good

                    going to be nice with a new power-plant.

                    keep us updated on how it runs.

                    be sure to open the garage door,...ha ha.

                    dave in NC
                    SOLSAKS - dave
                    1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
                    1982 J-10 Fleetside
                    1988 grand wagoneer
                    2004 RUBICON jeep
                    Benson, NC

                    Comment

                    • SJTD
                      304 AMC
                      • Apr 26, 2012
                      • 1946

                      Originally posted by Driftwood
                      What tool is required to remove the stock pulley from the power steering pump? My pump reservoir is leaking and needs a new seal.
                      This:

                      Amazing deals on this Pulley Remover & Installer Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.


                      There's also a one piece puller kind of looks like a c-clamp. One end slides into the groove in the pulley and you tighten the bolt that presses on the shaft.

                      Autozone or one of the others might have it for you to borrow.
                      Sic friatur crustulum

                      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                      Comment

                      • Driftwood
                        350 Buick
                        • Jun 12, 2000
                        • 959

                        SJTD, Now that my memory serves me right, it seems as if the reservoir is secured with bolts from the rear of the unit. Pulley removal isn't required. I replaced same seal in a different rig, but its been 10 or 12 years ago.


                        Originally posted by SJTD
                        This:

                        Amazing deals on this Pulley Remover & Installer Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.


                        There's also a one piece puller kind of looks like a c-clamp. One end slides into the groove in the pulley and you tighten the bolt that presses on the shaft.

                        Autozone or one of the others might have it for you to borrow.
                        1979 Wagoneer

                        Comment

                        • SJTD
                          304 AMC
                          • Apr 26, 2012
                          • 1946

                          You're right.

                          Reading comprehension fail. I saw "remove pulley" and "seal" and didn't notice it was for the reservoir.
                          Sic friatur crustulum

                          '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                          Comment

                          • rang-a-stang
                            Administrator
                            • Oct 31, 2016
                            • 5472

                            Thanks, Dave! Will do!

                            ********************
                            Great day today! Today was a lego day: Everything pretty much fit the way it was supposed to. As such, I got a TOOOooon done.

                            Fuel tank is in, skid plate is on, fuel system installed. I wanted to be able to adjust my fuel pressure easier than the aftermarket thumb screw adjuster that other TBIs have so I removed the spring in my pressure regulator and added a separate pressure regulator with a gauge on my fire wall. I installed my fuel pump near my cross member because it should be protected up there. I have to secure my fuel lines yet (re:zip ties) but I don't plan on doing that until I have energized my fuel system and verified no leaks.



                            Getting the front sheet metal on is a big morale boost. I see I am making progress and the back of my truck is getting emptied out. I installed a ton little odds and ends, too. Tomorrow I spend most of the day wiring. Now that the front end is together I can really dive into the wiring. I have to lock out my distributor (it's ready, I just need to weld it and re-assemble) and weld in the O2 sensor bung. I couldn't weld today because I spilled a bunch of gas (I put 5 gallons in the tank to prime the fuel system and break in my cam) in my garage. There are no more big parts laying around my garage and that feels great. I was staring at the engine bay and I thought "man, this engine bay is HUGE". I also already miss how easy it was to reach everything when the fenders were off. Definitely a little more difficult to work on with the inner fenders on...

                            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                            (Cherokee Build Thread)
                            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                            00 Baby Cherokee

                            Comment

                            • His-N-Hers Woodies
                              232 I6
                              • Apr 13, 2018
                              • 109

                              Getting close!

                              Comment

                              • rang-a-stang
                                Administrator
                                • Oct 31, 2016
                                • 5472

                                I have no good pictures becuase my phone is on the other side of the kitchen and I just mopped the floor. Later tonight, maybe.

                                I put the front fascia (I guess that's what it is called; where the headlights mount, behind the grill) on and cut out a hole for my trans cooler. I mounted the new trans cooler where the drivers side pie pan would be if I had a rhino. I put a small fan on the back of it, too. Then I painted behind the grill all satin black (used to be dark blue/overspray yellow, and rusty). I installed new headlight sockets (mine were original and super crusty), new grounds, and new turn signal lenses. I took out my trans cooler lines and cleaned them. HOLY CATS were my trans cooler lines crusty; No joke, probably a 1/4" of road grime all around them, front to back. Then when I went to put them on, I realized bent the crap out of them at some point so it took me over an hour to wrestle them into position.

                                I was super frustrated because I couldn't get anything electrical to work. Nothing, not even headlights. So I took out my multimeter and started chasing issues down. Since I painted so many things (chassis, inner fenders, etc.), nothing was grounded anymore. I started rebuilding grounds and ran out of time to check anything.
                                Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                                (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                                00 Baby Cherokee

                                Comment

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