38"s on a WT Chero. Scotty, River Beast, Porkchop, anybody.

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  • Michael F
    258 I6
    • Jun 04, 2000
    • 326

    38"s on a WT Chero. Scotty, River Beast, Porkchop, anybody.

    I would like to know if the dana 44 front and amc 20 rear will hold up Ok or do I need dana 60s. I have read you should not go over 35"s with the 1/2 ton axles and how do the brakes work, can you stop OK?

    Will the 208 t-case handle the load OK or should I get something else?

    How about the steering box, is the frame strong enough or does it need reinforced so the box does not pull off?

    Will a spring over and a fender trim like a M715 give plenty of clearence and not have to cut into the wheelwells?

    River Beast, Porkchop You guys have done the spring over, what does it take exactly and is the info on the web someplace?

    Scotty I need to see your rig to see if I want to realy do this. I want to keep the jeep as low as possible and do not mind doing some cutting. I have some fenders to use on the front (the front fenders on the Chero now are to good to cut) and the back flares have rust and will not be that solid to far in the future. I hope to be able to make it look like the M715.

    I looked at a M725 ambulance yesterday, It was pretty nice but all stock. It would be to much trouble to convert to what I want for the price he wants $2,500 obo. Thanks

    ------------------
    81 Cherokee Laredo WT
    55,000 orig. miles (not the engine I6 to V8 conv.)
    360/727/208/3.31w/tracklock/31x10.5AT
    79 Cherokee Chief WT (snow plow)
    360/400/QTw/LR/3.54/31x10.5

    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>"Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together." Carl Zwanzig<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
    <b>81 Cherokee Laredo WT</b><br />360/727/208/3.31w/tracklock/35x12.5 ProCompMT/double diaphragm brake booster<br />4\" BDS lift/TrailMaster SSV shocks
  • porkchop
    Master of B.S.
    • Apr 17, 2000
    • 8125

    #2
    Yes I have done the SOA. It does not take much, just a little time and blood (I lost count of all the Jeep bites). If you want to get a real good run down on how to do it you can go to River Beast's site. He has a step by step on there, I believe. You can also go to Kenall's page. I never did a good write up on mine because I hate to type If you call me I will talk your ear off though.

    The axles will hold up just fine with 38's. Scotty runs 38's with a D44 front and AMC 20 rear, and River Beast runs 39's with D44's all the way around. I will be running 35's in about two weeks.

    I would love to have that ambulance!


    ------------------
    '67/'79 Wagoneer mix
    ?Old Timer?
    Check it out!

    Mods, Mods, and more Mods! The end is no where in sight, but I am sure I am closer to the fork in the road.

    Comment


    • #3
      SOA's are pretty straight forward and can be done right in a weekend if you get everything you need first. Check out my site for info...

      ------------------
      Todd
      "River Beast"

      360/TH400/QT (maybe changin' QT soon to a Dana 18/20)
      Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
      39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's on 15x12 Eagle 589's
      7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
      4" Skyjacker Softride
      3" Trailmaster Bodylift
      My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life
      The "NEW" River Beast Preview site: <A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~tjnkk" TARGET=_blank>
      http://home.earthlink.net/~tjnkk </A>
      My E-mail: [email protected]
      "When approaching an intersection, remember...
      the vehicle with the BIGGEST TIRES has the right of way..."


      '93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"
      Todd
      www.ttsfabworks.com

      Comment

      • 72wag
        232 I6
        • Jan 16, 2001
        • 173

        #4
        ok, this is kinda off the subject a little bit, but since you are all experts on soa's, i got a quick question. i have a 72, with a dana 30 on the front that has the passenger side differential. now when i was changing the brakes the other day i was also looking at how bent and rusted the u-bolts were that hold my axle to the springs and noticed that the inboard u-bolt ran over the right hand side of the differential instead of just the axle. this makes that u-bolt about an inch longer than the other ones and about and inch bigger in diameter? or whatever, it is longer.

        now, what i was wondering is if this is standard and when i do my soa, will i have to repeat this setup, or is there a way to install the springs like an inch farther out on the axles. i guess one solution would be to get a couple of wide track d44's which would make the front axle stronger and solve the u-bolt problem (if it is going to be a problem?)

        thanks for any ideas or remarks you all got!!!

        cameron
        72Wag<br />-------------------------<br />Cameron<br />1972 Wagoneer<br />360/2bbl/th400/twin stick d20/<br />31x10.5/15 Pro Comp MT\'s on AE 589\'s<br />Rhino Grill<br />Custom Dash

        Comment

        • scotty
          • Jun 12, 2000
          • 6627

          #5
          a friend of mine runs 35s on a widetrac chero with only 3" of lift. i should think a springover and/or some tasteful fendertrimming should get you 38s with no prollem.

          ive got 38s on mine with only a 3 inch body lift,and had them on with no lift at all. my cuts are kinda sloppy,but if you want to open them up that much ala m715,you shoul prolly be able to fit 38s no prollem,tho up travel will be limited.to my understanding an m715 came from the factory with the equivalent of a 35" tire and 38s are no prollem on one o them. just take care to cut the fenders with the exact lines of the inner wheel well so that when you attach the metal for an m715 style fender,it lines up with the fender with no gaps.

          i just saw your your other post, you can see pics of my rig at: http://pacifico.off-road.com/~wagone...scott_probert/
          or come check it out in person. leave me a message at 330 5362 or call me at work at 277 8600.



          ------------------
          scott
          85 grand wagoneer
          258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
          38x15.5 gumbo mudders
          snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
          3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
          custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

          T18/dana-spicer 18 with drum E brake and PTO,and offset dana 44 swap very soon
          BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
          searching for jeep 4.0 six engine

          now we can do some 'wheelin!
          scotty
          85 grand wagoneer
          258/t18/d20/10 bolt/14 bolt
          38" TSL SXs
          chopped,bobbed and caged

          http://nightcrawlers4wd.20megsfree.com/index.html\

          http://mytrailrigs4x4.20megsfree.com/photo.html\

          Comment

          • scotty
            • Jun 12, 2000
            • 6627

            #6
            almost forgot: the 44/amc 20 should hold up ok depending on you intended use and right foot. ive had 38s on my rig for a couple of years now,with hardly any axle troble whatsoever,ive only got 6 cyl power,but, im pretty hard on it at times. the amc 20 is a really stong axle-ive got alot of confidence in it.ive now got it welded,and the shafts are not starting to twist yet,despite a bunch of street miles,and a quite a few off road hours.

            steering box should be ok.

            208 is about the best of what it is,IMO,i personally prefer gear drive,and have had my share of prollems with aluminum chain drive units. to use a d300 or d20 you will,of course need a passenger side front diff. i personally think that a passenger side front diff is alittle more versatile for swapping,and therefore worth swapping front ends.

            if you have a good chain,and maitain the 208,youll likely not have prollems with it.

            when i have good shoes and the rear adjusted properly,mine stops just fine. however,mud sems to eat jeep brakes,and i have to adjsut them every time i go in the woods to keep a good pedal,and i have to put shoes on there about every4 or 5 months with hard wheelin every weekend. this is why im putting discs back htere this year.am very tired of replacing rear brakes!


            ------------------
            scott
            85 grand wagoneer
            258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
            38x15.5 gumbo mudders
            snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
            3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
            custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

            T18/dana-spicer 18 with drum E brake and PTO,and offset dana 44 swap very soon
            BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
            searching for jeep 4.0 six engine

            now we can do some 'wheelin!
            scotty
            85 grand wagoneer
            258/t18/d20/10 bolt/14 bolt
            38" TSL SXs
            chopped,bobbed and caged

            http://nightcrawlers4wd.20megsfree.com/index.html\

            http://mytrailrigs4x4.20megsfree.com/photo.html\

            Comment

            • porkchop
              Master of B.S.
              • Apr 17, 2000
              • 8125

              #7
              <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 72wag:
              ok, this is kinda off the subject a little bit, but since you are all experts on soa's, i got a quick question. i have a 72, with a dana 30 on the front that has the passenger side differential. now when i was changing the brakes the other day i was also looking at how bent and rusted the u-bolts were that hold my axle to the springs and noticed that the inboard u-bolt ran over the right hand side of the differential instead of just the axle. this makes that u-bolt about an inch longer than the other ones and about and inch bigger in diameter? or whatever, it is longer.

              now, what i was wondering is if this is standard and when i do my soa, will i have to repeat this setup, or is there a way to install the springs like an inch farther out on the axles. i guess one solution would be to get a couple of wide track d44's which would make the front axle stronger and solve the u-bolt problem (if it is going to be a problem?)

              thanks for any ideas or remarks you all got!!!

              cameron
              <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

              No this will not be a problem. I use to have the D27 front end in mine. Pretty much the same as the D30. The spring pads were grinded off and then welded to the top. Then the same u-bolts were used.

              If I were you I would go ahead and swap the front end with some regular narrow track axles.. If you are doing the SOA to fit larger tires especially. I don't know how well that D30 will hold up. I did have 32's on 7" steel rims and my D27 held up, but who knew for how long.



              ------------------
              '67/'79 Wagoneer mix
              ?Old Timer?
              Check it out!

              Mods, Mods, and more Mods! The end is no where in sight, but I am sure I am closer to the fork in the road.

              Comment

              • Michael F
                258 I6
                • Jun 04, 2000
                • 326

                #8
                River Beast, I should have checked out your site, I thought I had been there but I will check it out againe.

                Yea I wold like to keep it as neet as possible on the fender trimming I like the look of the M715.

                Porkchop, the guy is desperate to sell but, Yuma might be a little far to take it.
                <b>81 Cherokee Laredo WT</b><br />360/727/208/3.31w/tracklock/35x12.5 ProCompMT/double diaphragm brake booster<br />4\" BDS lift/TrailMaster SSV shocks

                Comment

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