Timing cover woes

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  • biotex
    258 I6
    • Apr 30, 2009
    • 292

    Timing cover woes

    <Start vent>
    I have been mulling over repairing or replacing the timing cover on my 360 for a couple of days now.

    When I took the water pump off to replace the leaking gasket, I noticed several of the 1/4" x 20 bolt holes in the cover were stripped. Also noticed there was no gasket. PO just siliconed it up.

    I bought a new gasket, and applied permatex. Upon tightening the bolts is when I discovered the stripped bolts. I purchased some longer grade 8's, and was able to torque down all but two of them. The bottom ones of course, and they are next to each other. I removed the alternator to make some room, and see the brackets are wrong.

    I need to locate some proper brackets. I cleaned up some of the grime from the timing cover, and can see that it was also installed without a gasket. I see the same white silicone that was aound the pump. I can't stand shoddy work, so I figure I will end up removing the cover and put it back on correctly. No wonder there is oil leaking everywhere. Guy I got the truck from said the guy before him had just rebuilt it, and only had 1,500 or so on it. I could tell by the amount of oil built up on the front of the engine that it was not so. Oil pressure is good, no smoke, and she runs just fine, so I took a chance.

    I would probably be better off if it was not just rebuilt judging by the shady work I've seen so far.

    </End Rant>

    I can replace the timing set and oil pump while I'm it, so it is a worthwhile endeavor. I wanted to take the radiator off and send it to be boiled out anyway.
    Guess I should start getting the parts together. I can see it now...

    Money pit #5. (mental note to self... stock the doghouse with beer....)
    1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
    1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
    1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
    CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727
  • tgreese
    • May 29, 2003
    • 11682

    #2
    I feel for you. However, people almost always sell cars for a reason. And this reason is often a mechanical issue. Even if you ask, self-interest gets in the way of full disclosure ... it's human nature.
    Tim Reese
    Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
    Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
    Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
    GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
    ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

    Comment

    • biotex
      258 I6
      • Apr 30, 2009
      • 292

      #3
      Ok guys,
      Tonight I took off everything except the harmonic balancer. I need to get my puller in the AM. Anyways, i'm getting a case of the might as wells(MAW). I know you know darn'd well what I mean!

      So here I have this engine that I have never driven, am told it was recently overhauled, and seems to run great from what I've heard so far.

      I'm pulling the timing cover to do the work mentioned above, and am wondering what else I should do since I have it this far apart?

      I am on a tight budget just like every other guy, but yet I would hate to break down later. I just wonder if I should pull the heads and do a valve job, etc...
      I didn't think to pull compression before I started, but is not too late I suppose. Should I just put in a new chain, gears and oil pump?
      Should I remove the oil pan, or just loosen it?
      I could plastigage one rod and one main to check clearances. That would perhaps tell me if it was really rebuilt.

      Then there is the cam. Shure would be nice to get a torquey cam.

      I always do this.... Someone slap me! I should save the money for a paint job.
      1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
      1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
      1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
      CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

      Comment

      • crazydog
        350 Buick
        • Nov 19, 2005
        • 865

        #4
        Originally posted by biotex
        Ok guys,
        Tonight I took off everything except the harmonic balancer. I need to get my puller in the AM. Anyways, i'm getting a case of the might as wells(MAW). I know you know darn'd well what I mean!

        So here I have this engine that I have never driven, am told it was recently overhauled, and seems to run great from what I've heard so far.

        I'm pulling the timing cover to do the work mentioned above, and am wondering what else I should do since I have it this far apart?

        I am on a tight budget just like every other guy, but yet I would hate to break down later. I just wonder if I should pull the heads and do a valve job, etc...
        I didn't think to pull compression before I started, but is not too late I suppose. Should I just put in a new chain, gears and oil pump?
        Should I remove the oil pan, or just loosen it?
        I could plastigage one rod and one main to check clearances. That would perhaps tell me if it was really rebuilt.

        Then there is the cam. Shure would be nice to get a torquey cam.

        I always do this.... Someone slap me! I should save the money for a paint job.
        I was just down there a few weeks ago. Love the scenery for a few days, but have to get back to my flatland.

        Just to be clear, you have not driven it yet? But, you have heard it run?

        I would replace the timing set if it still has the factory nylon gear, if it is tight and looks to have been replaced before, you may be okay. It is your money, but I would swap in a quality double roller set since you are in there.

        My biggest regret on my 360 was when I had to replace the timing set due to a disintegrated nylon gear was not swaping in a camshaft. Now, yours may have had a swap at some point, but if it was mine I would throw in a cam.

        Sonce the budget is tight, watch out for the "Might as wells", they can pile up fast. But, I hate working on something and then shortly down the road something fails that I could or should have taken care of while I was in there. That is one reason my engine rebuild has mushroomed into so many other projects, that I am wondering when I will drive it again.

        Good luck on your project.
        1979 Cherokee - Built 401, NV4500, Dana 300, 6" BJ's Lift w/ Bilstein 5125 Shocks, Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 35X12.5R15, Front Brake Upgrade w/ GM 2500 Calipers & EBC Pads, Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Z&M Jeeps Dash Insert w/ VDO Series 1 Gauges, Tad Rack, Ramsey Hidden Winch w/ REP8000, Hydroboost, CS140

        1967 J3500 - Making plans

        Comment

        • biotex
          258 I6
          • Apr 30, 2009
          • 292

          #5
          Originally posted by crazydog
          Just to be clear, you have not driven it yet? But, you have heard it run?
          Not registered or inspected yet. Just got it, and have only driven around the yard.

          Didn't know the factory used nylon gear. I will check it out when I pull the cover.
          1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
          1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
          1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
          CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

          Comment

          • 78 Wagoneer
            232 I6
            • May 06, 2009
            • 130

            #6
            Timing Chain Cover

            I just got done today swapping out my cover due to stripped bolts from the PO, what a pain. The good news is that its running like a top, I had to ignore the might as wells for the most part. The exception was, after I got it put back together and started, it died... no spark. So I went ahead and did the TFI upgrade and it runs great. I could have just gotten the stock coil, but heck, might as well....
            1988 Grand Wagoneer w/ a 1978 AMC 360 HEI 4bbl
            SOA'd D60 rear and HP D44 front on 37's
            Locked up front and rear
            Rhino Grill

            Comment

            • joe
              • Apr 28, 2000
              • 22392

              #7
              Yeah check the deflection in the timing chain and get a new cover/crank seal but after that try a rule I try but haven't always lived by:
              When you've dug yourself into a hole you maybe can't get out of ..."quit digging".
              joe
              "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

              Comment

              • biotex
                258 I6
                • Apr 30, 2009
                • 292

                #8
                Originally posted by 78 Wagoneer
                I just got done today swapping out my cover due to stripped bolts from the PO, what a pain. The good news is that its running like a top, I had to ignore the might as wells for the most part. The exception was, after I got it put back together and started, it died... no spark. So I went ahead and did the TFI upgrade and it runs great. I could have just gotten the stock coil, but heck, might as well....
                Did you do the larger cap, cap adapter, wires and taller rotor also, or just the coil?
                1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
                1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
                1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
                CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

                Comment

                • biotex
                  258 I6
                  • Apr 30, 2009
                  • 292

                  #9
                  Pulled the timing cover today.

                  Got a couple of Q's.

                  BJ's sells a timing kit with a 5/8" sprocket that fits a 71 - 86.
                  The one with a 1/2" sprocket fits 79 to 91.

                  How do I decide which one to purchase? I have a 79. Which is better?

                  Should I purchase a mid plate for the oil pump? I'm going to replace the pump gears with their rebuild kit, so don't know if the mid plate is still needed.
                  1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
                  1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
                  1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
                  CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

                  Comment

                  • 78 Wagoneer
                    232 I6
                    • May 06, 2009
                    • 130

                    #10
                    Originally posted by biotex
                    Did you do the larger cap, cap adapter, wires and taller rotor also, or just the coil?
                    The whole package, cap adapter, larger cap, 8mm wires, coil and tall rotor. It makes a HUGE difference, I am very pleased. I think I am having too much fun with the added power, the rear tires aren't gonna last long at this rate... LOL
                    1988 Grand Wagoneer w/ a 1978 AMC 360 HEI 4bbl
                    SOA'd D60 rear and HP D44 front on 37's
                    Locked up front and rear
                    Rhino Grill

                    Comment

                    • Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
                      Cherokee Outlaw
                      • Jan 10, 2006
                      • 7292

                      #11
                      Id get the midplate. My old Wag was suffering from low oil pressure when I bought it and after the midplate it held 60psi cruising hot down the highway and just under 40psi hot idle. Plus even if your oil pressure is fine it wont hurt it any either...
                      -Jonny B.
                      1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
                      7" Alcan springs, BJ's HD shackles - 35x12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
                      AMC 401 - Pro-Flo 4 EFI
                      NV4500/NWF BB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
                      F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
                      R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker

                      1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
                      1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
                      1979 Wagoneer - Sold
                      1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed

                      Comment

                      • biotex
                        258 I6
                        • Apr 30, 2009
                        • 292

                        #12
                        I dropped the distributor drive gear

                        Any body got a spare laying around? (the one that mounts on the end of the cam).
                        1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
                        1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
                        1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
                        CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

                        Comment

                        • Mephistopoles
                          232 I6
                          • Jan 21, 2006
                          • 94

                          #13
                          What do you mean you dropped it? Pick it up, clean it off and use it.
                          IMO, stay away from aftermarket covers and dist./cam gears whenever possible. The AMC V-8 has gotten a terrible rap from all of that imported junk. Helicoils are the solution for stripped out aluminum, and cheaper than a new cover, too.
                          78 Wag 401/TH 400
                          78 J-10 401/TH 400
                          69 AMC Rebel 2Dr/HT 401/TH 400

                          Comment

                          • ROK360
                            232 I6
                            • Sep 29, 2007
                            • 108

                            #14
                            Timing cover

                            All I can say is be careful of the type of timing cover you use to replace it with. I had a fair bit of drama when I replaced mine a couple of years ago with the well known aftermarket brand. The dizzy was not angled correctly due to the locating lugs on the timing cover being a couple of degrees out - hence chewed out gears and dizzy needing a rebuild.

                            Ended up getting a bunch of good stuff from Bull tear, waggie is still running like a dream. get the good gear.
                            ROK360
                            84 FSJ LTD (Aussie built in the Brisbane Jeep Factory)
                            'The LPG (propane) powered Canyonero'
                            Tow truck, Daily Driver, and adventure non-urban vehicle

                            Comment

                            • biotex
                              258 I6
                              • Apr 30, 2009
                              • 292

                              #15
                              Originally posted by ROK360
                              All I can say is be careful of the type of timing cover you use to replace it with. I had a fair bit of drama when I replaced mine a couple of years ago with the well known aftermarket brand. The dizzy was not angled correctly due to the locating lugs on the timing cover being a couple of degrees out - hence chewed out gears and dizzy needing a rebuild.

                              Ended up getting a bunch of good stuff from Bull tear, waggie is still running like a dream. get the good gear.
                              I'm going to repair the cover I have. I was able to drill out the broken bolt, but need to weld the aluminun a bit so I can helicoil it.

                              What gear is the good gear? I ordered one from Autozone. Melling #S833 for around $29. Do I need to worry?
                              1986 CJ7, AMC 304/ T-176
                              1968 Scout 800, 152/T-18
                              1971 Scout 800B, 345/727
                              CJ10-A Tug,Waggy axles, Sd33, 727

                              Comment

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