International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-18-2004, 04:27 AM
krejr krejr is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Mar 02, 2004
Location: Torrance, California
Posts: 285
Question

I finally have some time to finish my lift, today and tomorrow. I haven't really done much to the left rear of my GW yet regarding the lift except to remove the u-bolts.
My question is, how do you access the nut on the front of the left rear leaf spring? The bolt appears to go into the frame, but I cannot see the nut. Do I have to remove the gas tank, or can I just remove some of the sheet metal from around the tank to access the nut?
Another question: The rear leafs have this wedge piece on the bottom that will rest against the supplied block (for the 6" lift). I have the right rear leaf installed with the same orientation as the original leaf, but the wedge points towards the back of the vehicle. Brent at BJ's told me that the block wedge needs to point towards the front of the vehicle. Does the leaf wedge also need to point towards the front of the vehicle? It looks like it should, to give the driveshaft a better angle, but I just wanted to get some advice before I rotated the leaf wedge 180 degrees. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it. I'm tearing back into my lift later this afternoon after I get back from the in-laws.
Thanks in advance! [img]smile.gif[/img]
__________________
1990 GW daily driver all stock
1988 GW daily driver, Rusty's 6" lift, TFI upgrade, huge difference! (broadsided by an illegal alien without insurance or even a license)
2004 GCL (hers) She needed a reliable grocery getter.
1963 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible. 3 on the tree, 260 V-8. Stock, clean, head-turner

Ken
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-18-2004, 05:34 AM
SpruceMoose SpruceMoose is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Nov 01, 2000
Location: Williamsburg, VA, USA
Posts: 1,424
Post

the nut in question is a captive one. hopefully. you should not have to get to it, unless it has broken loose. on mine, it came apart fine, but i could not get the bolt to engage the threads again. so i cheated. i tapped the bolt home, and it is being held in place with a short length of steel channel. the bolt is in double shear, so there is nothing to force it out, and the channel is strong enough to keep it in place if there is any reasonable amount of side loading on the bolt. over a year so far, no problems.

as for the angled shims, just remember: the input to the axle has to be aimed at the output of the transfer case. tilt the front end of the rear axle up.

gotta run. good luck!

sm.
__________________
88 Grand Wagoneer<br />\"Spruce Moose\"<br /><br />See the Moose at:<br /><a href=\"http://www.fsjworld.com/mygallery.asp?id=3294\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fsjworld.com/mygallery.asp?id=3294</a> <br /><br />AMC 360, DANA 44 F/R 2.72, TF 727, NP 229<br />Jacobs Pro-Street Ignition, Edelbrock 4bbl Intake with Holley 2bbl Analog Pro-Jection<br />Flowmaster 2.5\" 50 Series Delta muffler and tubing<br />K&N cone air filter, Amzoil fluids all around<br />31x10.5 BFG A/T KO<br />Rusty\'s 4\" lift<br />Home-made tube nerfs and bumpers<br />BJs Muscle grill<br />HF,VHF,UHF ham rigs and too many antennas (not)<br />8-Ball shift knob from college (1975)<br />Hella fog and driving lights<br />Kenwood MP3 HU, Orion sub amp, Jensens all around<br /><br />Mileage? We don\'t need no stinkin\' mileage!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-18-2004, 08:19 AM
billyrb's Avatar
billyrb billyrb is offline
BJ's Off-Road
 
Join Date: Aug 15, 2001
Location: Acworth, GA 30101
Posts: 10,030
Post

The wedge needs to have the smaller end towards the front and the fat end towards the back. You can use a hammer to gently rotate it.
__________________
BJ's Off-Road
ryan@bjsoffroad.com
Your source for '63-'91 FSJ Parts
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-19-2004, 01:46 AM
krejr krejr is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Mar 02, 2004
Location: Torrance, California
Posts: 285
Thumbs up

Thanks for the info guys. I rotated the wedges around with no problem. After dropping the entire back axle, I was able to get the blocks to line up much easier.
I'm having the same difficulty with my front bolt and the captive nut now. It came out without breaking the weld, but I can't get the threads to line up yet on the reinsertion. I've spent about 30 minutes on it with a jack under the leaf to try to raise, lower, etc. just a little at a time to look for that sweet spot where the bolt meets the threads. No luck so far. I'll try again this morning.
__________________
1990 GW daily driver all stock
1988 GW daily driver, Rusty's 6" lift, TFI upgrade, huge difference! (broadsided by an illegal alien without insurance or even a license)
2004 GCL (hers) She needed a reliable grocery getter.
1963 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible. 3 on the tree, 260 V-8. Stock, clean, head-turner

Ken
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-19-2004, 01:04 PM
krejr krejr is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Mar 02, 2004
Location: Torrance, California
Posts: 285
Cool

Well, I'm nearly complete. I have to just bleed the brakes and it's drivable again! 5-8 hours, yeah right.


I do have some information that may make the left rear spring easier for anyone doing their own lift.
The captive nut is likely to break the weld if you have rust like I did. I used PB Blaster on it and whacked it with a hammer. Waited an hour or two and did the same thing. I then gave it a 1/4 turn, then more PB and another whack. After another 1/4 turn, the bolt just backed right out easily. Once everything was out, the difficult part came: Trying to get the new bolt to find the threads of the captive nut. I spent nearly 1.5 hours the first day, and about 45 minutes the next day trying to get this $%&^# bolt to find the threads. Well, here's what I did and after I did it, a few minutes later, the bolt was threading into the captive nut. First take a grinder and champfer the tip of the bolt a little to give it a bit of a point. Not too much, maybe 1 - 2 threads. Next I attached a short 2x4 perpendicular to the leaf spring with a couple of C-clamps. I had the wratchet on the bolt and my other hand on the end of the 2x4. I rocked the 2x4 up and down while simultaneously trying to wratchet the bolt. After about 30 seconds, bam, the bolt started threading. I wish I would've thought of this a couple of days ago. Anyway, it worked for me and I hope that I can save someone a little time when they do their lift.
__________________
1990 GW daily driver all stock
1988 GW daily driver, Rusty's 6" lift, TFI upgrade, huge difference! (broadsided by an illegal alien without insurance or even a license)
2004 GCL (hers) She needed a reliable grocery getter.
1963 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible. 3 on the tree, 260 V-8. Stock, clean, head-turner

Ken
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner