International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-08-2001, 05:13 AM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
Jeep Doctor
Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 8,194

I finally got my blockoff plate installed in the inner light-holes on my grille, with two NAPA universal running-lights in place of the single 1156 bulbs on each side. This gives a separate round light for the parking lights and a separate light for the turn-signals (originals have been shaved off for a better approach-angle at the corners).

Not surprisingly, however, the turn-signals no longer blink. Not being a master electrical-guy, here's my best guess at what's going on. The stock turn-signal flaser can has a bimetal contact that heats up from the current being drawn by the lights, breaks the contact, cools off, re-engages the contact, heats up again, etc...

Now, with my lower-draw front lights, the bimetal in the can doesn't heat up as much, so the contacts stay engaged.

Right now I've got the #552 heavy-duty flasher unit that came in there originally. I'm planning on trying a regular light-duty flasher from a parts-store, to see if these new lights will be able to trip the weaker bimetal.

If the light-duty flasher is not enough, is there any way to increase the draw on the flasher circuit to trip the bimetal? If I were to use a resistor in the wires to these lights, would that increase the draw sufficiently? If so, can anyone give me a ballpark figure for the resistor rating I might need to draw more current to activate the flasher can?

Or am completely on the wrong track about how this thing works? Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

As an aside, this new front light setup would let me bolt on a Rhino-chaser grille right away; I think these lights are like the M715 lights up front, IIRC. I'm considering doing a Rhino-style grille, but out of expanded-mesh steel, with a frame formed around it, as there are no rhinos anywhere around these parts...
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2001, 07:52 AM
Joe H. Joe H. is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
Join Date: Jun 03, 2000
Location: Montgomery, Alabama
Posts: 1,934

Bob, it's painfully obvious to me that you have a hole in your blinker reservoir and it's drained all of your blinker fluid out. Refill with DOT-approved blinker fluid from a *fresh* bottle, wiggle the turn signal stalk to remove all air from system, top the reservoir off and you should be good to go!

1991 Grand Wagoneer<br />...stock daily driver
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2001, 08:29 AM
newbie newbie is offline
Grease Monkey
Join Date: Apr 19, 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 290

Just make sure its high-octane blinker fluid!
~newbie ( name, not by reputation)<P>\"I figure I make pretty good bucks, so I might as well go all out and pop for the fullsize\" -Ben Stiller (Gaylord Focker) \"Meet the Parents\"<P>*\'91 Ford Explorer (2wd poseur with 30x9.5 BFG\'s)<BR>*FSJ to be named later
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2001, 09:25 AM
Narnian Narnian is offline
Master Mechanic
Join Date: Aug 02, 2000
Location: Central Florida. USA
Posts: 950

Anyone who knows anything about Jeeps knows there is no fluid in the turn signal system.

Chances are it's a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum hose that runs from the rear brake lights to the dome light. I'll bet it's bleeding air off the dome light. The dome light feeds vacuum to the turn signal pin wheel. Without enough vacuum the pin wheel will not spin, if it doesn't spin in front of the signal lights you won't get any flashing.

An easy test is to suck on the headlight pipe , increasing the overall pressure to the pin wheel . . .

Hopefully, someone who really know how those electronics work will answer you soon. I would guess though that you should be able to find a turn signal bulb to match the new lights you put in. This is not an educated opinion however. If no one answers you, send me an e-mail. I know an electronic technician who can probably give you a good answer.
1981 Cherokee Chief Laredo: 360 w/Holley Fuel Injection, Edelbrock manifold, NP219, 3.31, 33\'s, no fuzzy dice (yet)<br />1987 J20: Stock except for the gaudy red Durabak all over the exterior<br />1990 Corvette that get\'s driven anytime I don\'t need to haul a load or go offroad and the temperature is over 32F.
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2001, 11:01 AM
andy d andy d is offline
Shade Tree Shaman
Join Date: May 06, 2000
Location: Marshfield,MA
Posts: 7,205

Bob arent you glad you asked? you should be using a single filament stop light bulb for the blinker, thats a 1156, 1157 is the dual filament stop/tail bulb. the problem is the running light bulbs aint drawing enough juice. ok maybe a lighter duty flash would work. but a running light bulb also isnt bright enough to be used as a blinker.i would try 1156 bulbs in the running light sockets and see what happens using the 552 flasher. also the lights are grounded? that i would prove first.
\'88 gwag,pure stock
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2001, 11:04 AM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
Jeep Doctor
Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 8,194

Wadda bunch of smart-@$$es...

Today I gained $10 of wisdom:

1. Flasher technology has advanced remarkably since the last time I bought a new flasher (circa 1984). It seems that the old "heavy-duty" and "regular-duty" designations have been superceded by a variable-load flasher design, in both thermal and electronic form (about $2 and $8 respectively; I bought one of each).

I thought "Perfect, that way it will automatically adjust to the different load imposed by the new lights." (which do not have replaceable bulbs; the whole light is a little $1.50 unit, with an integral bulb and lens).

So first I tried the new-design thermal unit, figuring I could return the $8 model. No dice: I plugged it in, and no blink. "Well" I thought "maybe the little bitty front lights are outside its design parameters; let's break open the $8 package and try it out." Plug it in: NO BLINK!!!

2. Here is where the second part of my wisdom for the day come on:

At that moment, a light came on. Literally. The current made it through the corrosion on pin-switch in the door-jamb, and the courtesy-lamp under the dash came on. Clearly showing that the upper socket on the fusebox, where I had been replacing the flasher canisters, is labeled "hazard"...

Meaning the lower-socket, which was occupied by a cheapo plastic-body flasher-can, was for the turn-signals. I popped the nearest flasher-can I had handy (actually, I think it was one of the old heavy-duty ones I had lying on the floor), and BING0! the signals worked.

So, you can have for free the two things that cost me $10 to learn:

1. The new flasher cans are universal for whatever load the lights may impose.
2. The LOWER socket is for the turn-signals.

I've got the $8 flasher in there for the turn-signals. They claim it lasts eight-times as long as the thermal unit; considering that the old one lasted me about 20 years, this new one will be flashing for my great-grandchildren...

[ October 08, 2001: Message edited by: Bob Barry ]
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:35 AM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner