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  #1  
Old 07-24-2007, 09:23 PM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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axle life

Im trying to get the jeep going in a few weeks, I plan on cutting some corners right now just to finish up, upgrade in a couple months. I just would like to hear some opions on whats going to go first,

drivetrain will consist of, th400/d300 (stock d300, with 1410 yokes) .095" wall driveshaft made by highangle 1410's yokes on the rear 14 bolt SF(if I can find one) and 1410 yokes on front d44,
I'm runnging 35" 12.5

I will run this REALLY tough so I don't not except something to break,I'm going cheap for a while so I can save up some dough,
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2007, 09:26 PM
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Dmntxn77 Dmntxn77 is offline
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Why a 14 bolt SF instead of a FF?
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  #3  
Old 07-24-2007, 09:41 PM
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shepherdskeep shepherdskeep is offline
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Hope the .095" wall driveshaft will hold up, but I doubt it. That's about the same thickness mine was (DOM, btw), and it bent when one of the axle yoke u-bolt nuts got snagged on a rock. Upgraded to .185" wall
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  #4  
Old 07-24-2007, 09:57 PM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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I havn't placed the order for the shafts yet so I'll see how much that will be, I have a FF, I'm just aquiring parts to build it, I plan on running 38's or 40's I'm waitng for a d60 front, I scored the ff`14 bolt for free, now got to find a free d60 haha.

for now I'm running 35's on a sf 14 bolt and d44 casue I have 6 lug rims already Im looking at trail ready beadlocks when I buy those I will get 8 lug design for the 14 bolr and d60

as for the tcase, I think I might stick with the d300, and upgrade it, ya i know I can ge an atlas or stak, for the same price as a beefed up d300, but If I upgrade the d300 I can do it over time and see if I even need 4 to 1 low range. Also I would perfer to build the tcase thne buy one, so I can get some hands on learning.
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  #5  
Old 07-25-2007, 05:14 AM
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i prolly wouldnt bother spending the $$ on 1410 yokes and joints for the sf 14 bolt and 44. spend that $$ elesewhere. nothing wrong with wanting 1410s,but get them for your permanent set of axles. its prolly worth running them on the d300,but wait till youve done the tailsahft upgrade and the axles that youre going to run,then have a nice set of drivesahfts made,with thicker than .095 wall

honestly,youll be fine with a 1350 on the 14 bolt and 1310s on the rest,as long as your angles arent too bad. i beat on my rig pretty hard with 38s and a healthy 345 and ive very seldom broken even 1310 joints as long as you keep them greased,and replace them often(i usually do mine yearly)

other than that,just carry some spare front shafts,you will need them for a 44 running that size tire if you are an "assertive" driver
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85 grand wagoneer
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  #6  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:30 AM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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ya, the only reason I was going to go 1410 all the way around so when I put in the d60, and 14 ff I will already have the driveshaft made
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  #7  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:31 AM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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whats a good thickness, and when I have them made can I get them made with 1350 joints now and switch to 1410 later.
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  #8  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:32 AM
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Slick Willie Slick Willie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerd13
I plan on cutting some corners right now just to finish up...

I don't think I've ever heard anyone plan on cutting corners.

My advice is to either A) beef it all up at once or B) wheel something more mild until you beef it up. If you're going to run 38-40's one day, get all your ducks in a line before you do it. Axles, driveshafts, yokes, etc. and swap it in.

If you want to wheel on 35's until you get your ducks in a line, build it that way, not half 1 ton, half 1/2 ton. You'll just waste money trying to get it all to work that way. Lock the stock rear axle, keep all the stock driveshafts and yokes, run 35's conservatively, all while accumulating parts and supplies for a one ton swap. You don't need 1410's or custom driveshafts for 35's and half ton axles. Save the money or get the parts and set them aside for the big swap.
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  #9  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:36 AM
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Slick Willie Slick Willie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerd13
whats a good thickness, and when I have them made can I get them made with 1350 joints now and switch to 1410 later.

1/4". 1350 to 1410 won't work. The cap diameters are the same, but the joint width is almost .5" longer for 1410's.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockjeep44
After this weekend chicks are gonna need suspenders to keep their panties up when I roll in
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2007, 05:48 PM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick Willie
1/4". 1350 to 1410 won't work. The cap diameters are the same, but the joint width is almost .5" longer for 1410's.

Ya i figured I couldn't that was the whole Idea about running 1410 sf14 bolt and d44.

If I can re use the stock drive shafts I will wait and gather all my parts then upgrade everything to 1ton when I get it, If I can't re use the shafts, I would rather spend money on the yokes, than buying 2 sets of custom drive shafts.

I'm just so much of a badass that I plan to cut cornerss
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  #11  
Old 07-26-2007, 11:07 PM
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Slick Willie Slick Willie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerd13
I'm just so much of a badass that I plan to cut cornerss

Somehow I don't believe that.

If all else fails, swap the SF 14 bolt yoke to match you stocks driveshafts. But I'd just run the stock rear axle before I went through the hasstle of swapping in a SF 14 bolt.
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'86 Wagoneer 360/727/Stak 3 speed/HP60/FF14/welded 4.10's/~3" Front Springs/Chevy 63's/42's/hummer beadlocks/topless/8 point cage/half doors

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockjeep44
After this weekend chicks are gonna need suspenders to keep their panties up when I roll in
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2007, 04:37 AM
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jeeping1974 jeeping1974 is offline
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same here. for how cheap a FF dana 60 and FF 14 bolts are its not worth running a SF rear axle. i picked up my FF dana 60 for $100. and i'm planning on 38" tires.
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  #13  
Old 07-27-2007, 08:29 AM
tylerd13 tylerd13 is offline
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... ya I guess, do you think I would be able to sell used gears for a d44? cause I will be running the 44's for maybe a month or 2 or longer and I plan on going with 4.28's or 4.56
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  #14  
Old 07-27-2007, 08:34 AM
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Desert Beast Desert Beast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick Willie
1/4". 1350 to 1410 won't work. The cap diameters are the same, but the joint width is almost .5" longer for 1410's.

that what i had my shafts made out of.
go big or go home.
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2007, 10:27 AM
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jeeping1974 jeeping1974 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerd13
... ya I guess, do you think I would be able to sell used gears for a d44?


i don't see why not. you see them on ebay. i'd just sell the whole axle. if/when you go with a dana 60 or 14 bolt and regear it, you'll have to watch the breaking point and get a new carrier or locker.
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  #16  
Old 07-28-2007, 05:00 AM
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i think you should spend zero to very little $$ on dana 44s. swap in your t case,connect it to the 44s with some junkyard driveshafts. squeeze your tires onto whatever 6 lug wheels you have layin around(as long as theyre at least 8" wide) and go have some fun while youre collecting the rest of your parts.

its absolutely absurd to spend $$ on gears for 44s to only run them for a couple months i used to drive my 258 powered rig to and from the trails on 38s with 3.31 gears. not optimal,but perfectly driveable,and still had plenty of gear to get around in low range.

while it sounds like a good idea to swap on some 1410 yokes and only make driveshafts once,its still alittle illogical IMO,as your new axles will be slightly different lengths,plus youll need to spend $$ on yokes for axles your not gonna use. if your stock driveshaft isnt long enuff,search thru the pile till you find one the right length at the local auto recycler.same for the front. pick up a plane jane u joint at each end shaft,or possibly just home-shorten your old rear if you can fit one that thick.

my 2 cents,for what theyre worth
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85 grand wagoneer
258/t18/d20/10 bolt/14 bolt
38" TSL SXs
chopped,bobbed and caged

http://nightcrawlers4wd.20megsfree.com/index.html\

http://mytrailrigs4x4.20megsfree.com/photo.html\
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2007, 07:09 PM
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Slick Willie Slick Willie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Beast
that what i had my shafts made out of.
go big or go home.

Me too, and the tcase broke in half. But the driveshafts are in great shape!
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'86 Wagoneer 360/727/Stak 3 speed/HP60/FF14/welded 4.10's/~3" Front Springs/Chevy 63's/42's/hummer beadlocks/topless/8 point cage/half doors

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockjeep44
After this weekend chicks are gonna need suspenders to keep their panties up when I roll in
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