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  #61  
Old 07-17-2007, 10:26 AM
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i've been thinking about replacing my bench seat with a set of seats from a wrangler so i think that i might be able to use just a normal twin stick setup seeing that there will not be anything over the hump. are most/all twin stick conversions the same? are there ones that i should stay away from? others i should be looking at?
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  #62  
Old 07-17-2007, 10:31 AM
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depends on the tranny you have. for me i ended up cutting the twinsticks up and making them really short and taking all the bends out for use in my cherokee.
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  #63  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepNOFEAR
I'd go to pirate4x4 and search or ask there. Not that people here don't know but you'll get a lot more stories and opinions there.


mostly stories, and expect to get flamed on pirate because most of them have nothing better to do.
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  #64  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeping1974
i've been thinking about replacing my bench seat with a set of seats from a wrangler so i think that i might be able to use just a normal twin stick setup seeing that there will not be anything over the hump. are most/all twin stick conversions the same? are there ones that i should stay away from? others i should be looking at?
Currie sticks (CJ) on a 300 work well behind the 727. Almost in the perfect spot.

I dunno 'bout other trannys.


I traded my 300/727 for a 205 with the short 32 spline input. I have all but the doubler adapter at this point. 700r4/203/205 for me.
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  #65  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:49 AM
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jeepin, the only reason i made the shafts longer is because i wanted it to go through the stock location so i can place my big pan back on there and all i need is a normal twin stick boot off of ebay. if you look at the d20 that is in fsj's the shaft is about 10-12" long to get it coming out the same place i have mine coming out. i think mostly it will come down to what you choose more than any other reason.
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  #66  
Old 07-17-2007, 12:23 PM
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malodin, i did notice that about yours. thats a good idea. what do you have for a tranny?

i haven't officially decided yet about it. i'll have to do some measuring to see where i'll sit. how long is the th400/np208 adaptor housing? once i know that i can figure out exactly where the shifters will be located.
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  #67  
Old 07-17-2007, 12:49 PM
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mine is th400/208 adapter housing and d300. if you do it like that yours might sit slightly different due to it being a j-truck but i doubt it.
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  #68  
Old 07-17-2007, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malodin
mine is th400/208 adapter housing and d300. if you do it like that yours might sit slightly different due to it being a j-truck but i doubt it.

it will probably sit the same seeing that the frames are all the same... i think . thanks for the help
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  #69  
Old 07-17-2007, 02:48 PM
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are all the 4:1 kits that say "tera low" the same? does one company make them and every one sells them? how hard is it to install? i am thinking about having my friend that is doing the output shaft in my tranny do this for me also. is it worth going with the 32 spline output shafts front and rear? should i think about getting a clocking ring?

sorry for all the questions.
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  #70  
Old 07-17-2007, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeping1974
are all the 4:1 kits that say "tera low" the same? does one company make them and every one sells them? how hard is it to install? i am thinking about having my friend that is doing the output shaft in my tranny do this for me also. is it worth going with the 32 spline output shafts front and rear? should i think about getting a clocking ring?

sorry for all the questions.

A couple of companies make a 4:1 for the D300. I know JB conversions has them. Tera Low is a differnet company AFAIK. Not sure how hard it is... a shadetree mechanic shouldn't have any problem with them... May need a bearing press though.... not sure.

I think that going to 32 spline right off the bat is a good idea considering it is your t-case.... and it is vital to getting you off the trail. It really is up to you... how hard do you plan to wheel it?

I am not sure about the clocking ring... I think it is a good idea to have the option.... and considering your wheelbase, you might regret not having it down the road.
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  #71  
Old 07-17-2007, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeping1974
i spent about 1200 on parts and labor to get the TH400 built

i forgot that you had stated that earlier,and i can understand your desires to keep it after spending all that $$

if you still had a stock tranny,i felt it was important to know swapping the tranny out is a good option,so you could make a better,more informed decision.

but,as malodin said,im sure your friend can do the tailsahft swap without having to do a full rebuild.

sorry i wasnt payin attention
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  #72  
Old 07-17-2007, 04:43 PM
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i forgot to mention that you have to leave one bolt out between the 208 housing and d300, then you can clock it any way you want. if you look at my pictures the t-case is pretty well stuffed up in there and is close to flat as can be.
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  #73  
Old 07-17-2007, 04:45 PM
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i certainly am not just gonna go out, mash the gas and hope for the best when it comes to wheeling. i believe in picking a line and taking it easy. i'll probably just get a rebuild kit, 4:1 kit, and twin stick ceonversion for now.
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  #74  
Old 07-17-2007, 04:57 PM
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you might think about spending the money from the 4-1 low kit on the 32spline output shafts first, are you satisified with the q/t's low range? if so the d300 is within a few points of that stock. I know for my wheeling i am satisified with the d300's low range
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  #75  
Old 07-17-2007, 08:12 PM
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i know that the dana 300 is .1 lower (higher number wise) than the QT. i would like a better crawl ratio seeing that first gear in my tranny is 2.48:1 and i'm going with 4.10 R+P. that only gives me a finial crawl ratio of 26.23 where as the 4:1 kit will give me a 40.67. 4:1 and 4.56 R+P would give me 45.24 which would be better for most of the trails around here. once my tranny goes, i'll probably look into swapping in a manual, or see if there is any way to get a lower first gear.
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  #76  
Old 07-17-2007, 08:43 PM
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theres only a mild lower gear for the th400, doesnt drop it down all that much. its personall preference then, for me i am happy with my th400's crawl ratio with 4.10's but i have my little sidekick for rock trail abusing so the jeep just plays in the mud and what not so i dont need anything super deep.

another thing to think about though is the fact that by going deeper gears in the t-case you will be putting greater stress on the output shafts and may blow them quick then you thought. could always spend the money on the better output shafts and then do a home rebuild of another 300 with the terra low kit, while your driving your truck then when you get the low kit assembled drop your current d300 and swap the input/output shafts as they are the easiest part to remove on the d300.
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  #77  
Old 07-18-2007, 05:47 PM
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what type of driveshafts should i be looking into the front and rear? single u-joint top and bottom? CV joint at the top? double u-joint top? i'm also thinking about about going with a set of u-joints that allow 10* more to the driveshaft angle. here is a link to them.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

it says "Super-Flex Universal Joints"
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  #78  
Old 07-18-2007, 06:01 PM
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well, my rear shaft bolted right in, i needed a conversion joint for the 14bff in back but other than that its a perfect fit(at least with the adapter i used)i am talking to another guy that has an adapter that is 4.25" deep, which would change the crossmember location and drive shaft length. I set my stock front driveshaft up there and everything looked good, didnt install it yet because i figured id have to remove the case again for who knows what reason. my front is just a one side cardan joint and the other just a normal ujoint
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  #79  
Old 07-18-2007, 06:35 PM
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thats how my front is also. i am thinking about just getting new shafts since i'm lifting the j10 alot more.
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  #80  
Old 07-18-2007, 06:43 PM
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i am running 4" skyjacker lift blocks in the rear with the 14bff and a spoa d44 and all is well, though it probably will change a little when i get the springs inboarded or at least a shackel flip done
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