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  #1  
Old 06-03-2001, 10:47 AM
porkchop's Avatar
porkchop porkchop is offline
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Join Date: Apr 17, 2000
Location: Corpus Christi, TX 78414
Posts: 8,125
Exclamation

Just wanted to say that I fixed my Wag and I am back on the road. It had slipped out of e-drive. After I took it off and apart I found out that the 5/16th bolts that hold the center diff cover on were loose! So I took them out and put some lock-tite on and all is good.

At the same time I managed to hook up a mechanical e-drive switch. This also took care of the vac leaks I had so now the wag is running good. I love killing two birds with one stone.

------------------
'67/'79 Wagoneer mix
"Red"
Check it out!

Mods, Mods, and more Mods! The end is no where in sight, but I am sure I am closer to the fork in the road.
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2001, 11:01 AM
Slippery Slippery is offline
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Join Date: Nov 09, 2000
Location: Fredericktown, Ohio 43019
Posts: 1,087
Thumbs up

Knew ya could

------------------
Jason K.
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/e46e6...w0GX7Ax3rIxilV
'88 Ford Festiva
40mpg work car
Cost $150, paid for itself already
-----------------------------
'90 Chevy Lumina
Biggest POS in the 115-year history of the automobile
4 cylinders, less than adequate for a car half its size
Crappy rear disc brakes, $19M class-action lawsuit settled
------------------------------
Some other junk not worth mentioning
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2001, 12:55 PM
JeepFreak JeepFreak is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2000
Location: Guthrie, OK
Posts: 2,290
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Hey Bryant thats great! Do you still need the vacuum diaphram? If not that's cool since I forgot to mail it out. If you do I will mail it out tomorrow.

------------------
JeepFreak
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2001, 01:04 PM
jeepbob jeepbob is offline
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Join Date: Jan 16, 2001
Location: Caro, Mi, USA
Posts: 2,513
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And if you don't need the cones, I will save them for future breakage.

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65 wag. 360/edelbrock rb4/t400/20 t-case/4:10 d27/d44 broken power lok/onboard air/onboard 110v power(no inverter)/1999 Lincoln t.c.leather buckets/Lincoln ctr console/winch/33x12.50/tunes/water proof door pads
soon to have new motor/d44frt/d60r(4:10)welded diff/custom bumpers
see ya in da mud
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2001, 01:09 PM
porkchop's Avatar
porkchop porkchop is offline
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Join Date: Apr 17, 2000
Location: Corpus Christi, TX 78414
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I am sorry I forgot to mention that I don't need any of the spare parts. Thanks though guys. Ken already sent them out before I could get to him. Oh well I will use them as spares. Thanks for all the help.

------------------
'67/'79 Wagoneer mix
"Red"
Check it out!

Mods, Mods, and more Mods! The end is no where in sight, but I am sure I am closer to the fork in the road.
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2001, 01:17 PM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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Join Date: May 14, 2000
Location: State College, PA USA
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WOO HOO!!!!

I can hear your sigh of relief from here!

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Peace.............BartG

the Green Flash!
360ci
Custom 4v TBI
Edelbrock Performer Manifold
TH400, QT with low
4" skyjacker suspension lift, 3" body lift Rancho 9000's
33x12.50 BFG KO's 8" American Racing Baja Rims
Thorley headers, 3" exhaust, Dyno Max
Infiniti power leather seats
Custom billet shift knob by Millerluck
50%Luxury Car, 50%Tractor
http://www.teamgodspeed.com
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2001, 01:24 PM
1nathan 1nathan is offline
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Join Date: Apr 13, 2000
Location: Florida
Posts: 278
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Kewl,
Glad you got her going again and it was cheap!
Nathan

------------------
Nathan Van Meter

'87 Grand Wagoneer,3" spring lift,31"X10.5" Dunlop RV,Front Receiver,Factory Brush Guard,360 V8, NP229 & 727,Edelbrock Intake & carb.

'87 J-10, 3" Body Lift,1.5" Add a Leafs, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Factory Brush Guard, 360 V8, NP208 & 727, Holley Pro-Jection, Jacobs ignition

'81 GW " parts truck ", 360 V8, NP208 & 727, 130K on odometer ***SOLD***
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2001, 02:17 PM
smithhl smithhl is offline
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Join Date: Jan 10, 2001
Location: Cleveland TN USA
Posts: 265
Talking

And there was much rejoicing.....YYEEEAAAHH!

------------------
81 Wagoneer Brougham
327 Vigilante T-18 NP-208

74 Volkswagen Sunbug
Superbeetle

95 Olds Achieva
4cyl 5-speed
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2001, 04:16 PM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,374
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You're a good man Bryant! Lucky too
Glad ya got it sorted out with minimal $$$ and minimal family stress.

------------------
Regards,
-joe
63 2-dr Wag, 72 J-4000, 73 J-4000, 82 CJ-8
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2001, 10:35 AM
BIGYELLOW78J10 BIGYELLOW78J10 is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Jul 18, 2000
Location: Atlanta, GA USA
Posts: 1,517
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How'd you work the manual Edrive setup? Could you post some parts list and pics with instructions? I would be most grateful.
Thanks

Daniel

------------------
78 J-10 Rumblin Wreck
2v 360 V-8
Stock down to the rust
Highway speed in about an Hour
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2001, 01:12 PM
porkchop's Avatar
porkchop porkchop is offline
Master of B.S.
 
Join Date: Apr 17, 2000
Location: Corpus Christi, TX 78414
Posts: 8,125
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Sure. I will get the pics on my site later this week. This is my setup: First I took my vacum diaphragm and use the angle grinder to split the round end in two halfs and then you just knock the remainder off the two pieces. I then took a bolt of the same size and cut the head off and then welded it to the inner piece of the old diaphragm to lengthen it. I went to the store and bought a locking clip for $.20 slid the out side piece back in the hole and secured it with the clip. I then reassemblied the e-drive setup. One thing to remember is make sure you put the longer side of the shift fork aft or you won't have enough throw to take it out of e-drive.

After that was together, I took an old piece of metal and bent two 90 degree angles in it sorta like and "S". I bolted this to the extended piece. This is where the cable will hook up.

I bought a locking "T" handle cable at Napa for $26 and took out the old vacum switch from my tranny hump (this is where I located it after the big change over). Since the hole was much larger than the cable, I used the piece of the diaphraam that I cut off. Drilled a hole in the middle of it for the cable and then screwed it to the tranny hump. worked great. once the cable was routed I slipped a piece of rubber fuel line over the cable and then ran it up to the point right before the new setup. this is where I took the tag that was on the t-case, bent it and then secured the cable to it with a hose clamp. the rubber prevents the cable from sliding all over and holds the outside of the cable in place while the inside still moves. This is hard to picture, so you might want to wait for the pics .

I then used two cable stops, like on the carb for the throttle, on both sides of the "S" on the extended piece, adjusted it and it works like a champ!

I have a hard time typing things so people can understand, but I hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions if needed.


------------------
'67/'79 Wagoneer mix
"Red"
Check it out!

Mods, Mods, and more Mods! The end is no where in sight, but I am sure I am closer to the fork in the road.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2001, 01:29 PM
JeepFreak JeepFreak is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2000
Location: Guthrie, OK
Posts: 2,290
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Hey Bryant that sounds like a possible tech article for this site!

------------------
JeepFreak
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